Literallynothing's Build Thread
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 304
Likes: 51
From: Windsor, CO
which one do you have?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,804
Likes: 703
From: Tobyhanma, PA
This is my issue. Some of them fold up but some don't and they take up room. Even folded up it requires space to sit.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 304
Likes: 51
From: Windsor, CO
the packing blanket strategy has gotten a lot of work done for me, but I have bad knees, hips, and back so I’m usually laid up for several hours after working on the truck. Hoping that the topside creepier helps with that
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 282
From: NT, See you in the
From Corey on his valve springs:
"We offer a different brand that are the same specs as 910’s. We use PAC spring and they are a very well know performance spring company. We simply box our stuff up as kits to take the guess work out of finding all the parts individually.
Normally you don’t have to shim 910’s, it’s just IF you want a higher seat pressure. Everything is dependent on if the heads have had any valve work done or not. Main thing is to buy a valve spring install measuring tool so you don’t end up with coil bind. You usually shoot for around 125lbs for seat pressure, and FYI stock springs are only 85-88."
"We offer a different brand that are the same specs as 910’s. We use PAC spring and they are a very well know performance spring company. We simply box our stuff up as kits to take the guess work out of finding all the parts individually.
Normally you don’t have to shim 910’s, it’s just IF you want a higher seat pressure. Everything is dependent on if the heads have had any valve work done or not. Main thing is to buy a valve spring install measuring tool so you don’t end up with coil bind. You usually shoot for around 125lbs for seat pressure, and FYI stock springs are only 85-88."
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 304
Likes: 51
From: Windsor, CO
From Corey on his valve springs:
"We offer a different brand that are the same specs as 910’s. We use PAC spring and they are a very well know performance spring company. We simply box our stuff up as kits to take the guess work out of finding all the parts individually.
Normally you don’t have to shim 910’s, it’s just IF you want a higher seat pressure. Everything is dependent on if the heads have had any valve work done or not. Main thing is to buy a valve spring install measuring tool so you don’t end up with coil bind. You usually shoot for around 125lbs for seat pressure, and FYI stock springs are only 85-88."
"We offer a different brand that are the same specs as 910’s. We use PAC spring and they are a very well know performance spring company. We simply box our stuff up as kits to take the guess work out of finding all the parts individually.
Normally you don’t have to shim 910’s, it’s just IF you want a higher seat pressure. Everything is dependent on if the heads have had any valve work done or not. Main thing is to buy a valve spring install measuring tool so you don’t end up with coil bind. You usually shoot for around 125lbs for seat pressure, and FYI stock springs are only 85-88."
Shaved a little more off of the intake y today and everything fits well. Still have a boost leak so I’ll have to throw my home made detector on there and see if it’s still coming from there or if it’s somewhere else. I also have developed a really rough idle and throw a P1211 every time I give it more than like 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Once I’m settled into the new house I’ll have a large list of parts to order;
HPOP
Injector O Rings
Valve Springs, stem seals, etc
Glow plugs
Everything needed for the SD UVCH swap.
Alright, now that I’m digging this far into it, is there anything else that anyone recommends doing while I’m in there? I’m really hoping to open the valve covers up, do everything, and put it all back together and not work on the truck for a long time. Any parts worth swapping at 240,000 miles just for good measure? I’m already gonna be spending probably $1000-$1500 in parts and tools so I might as well add in odds and ends while I’m at it
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 949
Likes: 109
From: Fowler Colorado
I’ve heard of some coating the valve covers with bed liner to make the engine a little less noisy in the cab. Never got to it myself but wouldn’t hurt to look into it before taking them off if that’s something you’re interested in
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 304
Likes: 51
From: Windsor, CO
After doing a little research on this I think I'm going to do this. I have always planned on eventually pulling the interior and fully sound deadening the cab, and it sounds like this makes at least as much of a difference as that.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 304
Likes: 51
From: Windsor, CO
Also, I think I am going to buy the valve spring compressor specifically made for the 7.3/t444e motor. The off brand version has good reviews and costs $200 rather than $500+ for the original tool. Seems like it will make the process much easier than a modified regular compressor. If anyone is looking to do valve springs after I finish, I'd be happy to sell it cheap or let you borrow it when I am done.
Should I consider doing rocker arms while I'm in there?
Should I consider doing rocker arms while I'm in there?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,492
Likes: 2,019
From: North Texas
Wonder if the coating could retain too much heat.
Adam aka Z31, has seen bent push rods on stock trucks. My vote is to do them since out anyway. I have the tried and true Smith Bros ones. Probably just their basic upgrade but would have to check to see what I purchased.
I just reused my rockers.
That P1211 is a common code. I think I threw it on my hotter tunes with the worn out HPOP.
The Melling LPOP works nice too. Plus reseals two worn points, LPOP to block and front main seal. Four or five bolts to R&R...and not crazy expensive. Mine was around $90.
Adam aka Z31, has seen bent push rods on stock trucks. My vote is to do them since out anyway. I have the tried and true Smith Bros ones. Probably just their basic upgrade but would have to check to see what I purchased.
I just reused my rockers.
That P1211 is a common code. I think I threw it on my hotter tunes with the worn out HPOP.
The Melling LPOP works nice too. Plus reseals two worn points, LPOP to block and front main seal. Four or five bolts to R&R...and not crazy expensive. Mine was around $90.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 304
Likes: 51
From: Windsor, CO
Wonder if the coating could retain too much heat.
Adam aka Z31, has seen bent push rods on stock trucks. My vote is to do them since out anyway. I have the tried and true Smith Bros ones. Probably just their basic upgrade but would have to check to see what I purchased.
I just reused my rockers.
That P1211 is a common code. I think I threw it on my hotter tunes with the worn out HPOP.
The Melling LPOP works nice too. Plus reseals two worn points, LPOP to block and front main seal. Four or five bolts to R&R...and not crazy expensive. Mine was around $90.
Adam aka Z31, has seen bent push rods on stock trucks. My vote is to do them since out anyway. I have the tried and true Smith Bros ones. Probably just their basic upgrade but would have to check to see what I purchased.
I just reused my rockers.
That P1211 is a common code. I think I threw it on my hotter tunes with the worn out HPOP.
The Melling LPOP works nice too. Plus reseals two worn points, LPOP to block and front main seal. Four or five bolts to R&R...and not crazy expensive. Mine was around $90.
I’ll look at the smith bros push rods, seems like it’s definitely worth upgrading if people are bending them stock.
yeah the P1211 has me thinking HPOP, but also makes me wonder if it could be injector o rings since a lot of people seem to throw this code and have similar issues with bad o rings.
Where is the LPOP on these trucks? Based on what you’re saying it’s on the front of the motor? If it’s only $100 for a good one I’ll do it then too. Trying to just park it and fix/preventative replace everything in one go. I’ll probably have the whole front off the truck because I think my IC boots are leaking at the IC since I didn’t cut enough of the core support to get the boot on right. If the front end is off including the IC, I might swap my radiator for an aluminum one at this time too. And while that is out I’ll have super easy access to the water pump which has a slight weep. Probably have the truck down for a few weeks to do everything