Wow, spent a couple hours fighting and mutilating the up pipe with a sawzall this morning to get it out. Picked up the porta power around 3, and had the new up pipe in place in about 30 seconds. I can’t believe I haven’t seen people talk about using one for this install. Everyone seems to pull the trans instead. Either way, I didn’t read instructions or write ups and tightened the up pipe collector to the pipes and the pipes to the manifold, so now the collector won’t meet the turbo at all. That’s tomorrow Noah’s problem. Should be able to loosen those bolts, and slap everything back together tomorrow morning.

Also got the new fitting drilled, tapped, and jb welded into the radiator. So that will be set up and ready by the time I’m done. I don’t want to jinx it, but I am so excited to have non leaky up pipes and a turbo without play.

 

Got the turbo back in and fully tightened to the motor, down, and up pipes.

Also, anyone know what this is? Never noticed that it does not appear to be attached to anything

 

If you are lookin at the broken white hose, it is a vacuum line for the heater blend door. The other end should be there someplace, maybe the hose zip tied to the heater hose?

 

yep that’s what I was looking at! Thank you! Time to do a little research on that

 

Why is your turbo crooked? The cool ones are all mounted straight, parallel to the valve covers.

I have a random black vacuum box connect to that line and then to the pump.

 

turbo is crooked because I am one of the poors. Haha I might eventually go to the better set up, but for now I just wanted to spend a little to refresh what I have. Everything went back together and I went to start it up and it just cranked and cranked. Had my roommate pull his duramax up and jump me, I guess it didn’t like sitting for a week and a half. Truck is running well but I have a boost leak at the turbo outlet flange. I need to fiddle with my intake spider and get a new v clamp for the connection. Doesn’t appear to be leaking until about 10psi so I will solve this problem next weekend. The truck doesn’t really ever see that much boost when I’m just driving to and from work.

While I was in there, I flipped the dog house around and gave it some new o rings. Did the CCV mod so next time I have it all apart I shouldn’t have to clean up nearly as much oil.

 

I've thought about doing the ccv mod. I'm interested to see how you like it.

That is a sweet looking engine bay!

 

Keep an eye on the heater hose for your CCV. It'll start to swell up after awhile from the oil vapors. How long I'm not sure.

I've gone back and forth on the CCV a couple times now. Not sure how the elevation up here will play, but at sea level the smoke wafting around at stop lights got old after a couple years. I'm now back to stock. Oily vapors never hurt combustion.

 

Thank you! I was going to add a catch can instead of just venting to the atmosphere, but I realized the catch can I have laying around has 1/2” fittings instead of 3/4” and I didn’t want to reduce the flow that much. Should make messing with the intercooler pipes nicer since they won’t be covered in oil.
That’s good to know. I’ll keep and eye on it. Yeah I’m not worried about combustion, just extremely oily boots and pipes haha

 

Well, I wish I had more information to share on this, but I need help.

Truck info: 1995 F350 7.3 with stage 1 Full Force injectors, Hydra tuner, freshly rebuilt turbo with EBPV delete, IC set up, new IPR, ICP, and EBP sensor.

The truck has been running fine other than a boost leak, slightly weak HPOP, and an alternator that might be going out. Today it started running rough going up a hill, by the time I got to the top it felt like I had barely any power. CEL came on, I drove straight to autozone to get the code read, but the second they plugged in to the OBDII the truck shut off, no codes were retained. The truck started back up fine, and drove fine until I hit 30mph and then it bogged down and threw the code again. The truck then died when I came to a stop. I was able to start it back up after a long time cranking, and it felt like a modern truck in limp mode, drove it about 3 miles to get home and never tried to get above 25mph. I have a spare CPS that I am about to throw in to try to fix this. I tried to start it with the code reader plugged in and it was throwing a code for the transmission position sensor, but in my experience, the truck wouldn't start if that was the issue? Any input is appreciated.


Just created a new thread with this info.

 

Most parts store code readers won't communicate with these trucks. A lot of folks are using forescan to read codes. I have the old school device that Ford houses used back when these trucks were new, so I don't know anything about using forescan.

 

that’s what I read last night. I’ll have to look into forescan, I’m considering dropping the dough on a autoenginuity unit so I can use it on my Toyota as well

 

Ive found the cheapest thing to do is put some tape over the check engine light. Can't be broke if you can't see it.

 

lol we did that over many lights on a stock class ultra4 car I helped build, but I’m not certain that’s the route I want to go with my daily haha

 

I hear you on wanting the fancy tool reader merbob. I got boned by a bad cps before. I swapped out all kinds of stuff, even got a generic cps from autobone, amd it was bad out of the box. I found the oem cps in the glove box missing its o ring and covered in about 20 years of rtv and grease. Wiped it off and put a new ring on it and the truck literally fired right up.

Got a brand new international cps in the glove box now. Been running on that old one for about a year now.