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Your first comment did make me go back and take a closer look at how I had it laid out on the pages. I made some changes for the better in my opinion.
I truly hope you never have a need for that PDF.
I appreciate what you did a lot,
I now have both the PDF which prints very nicely,
and the *.doc file which I just went thru and highlighted certain items.
I used conductive grease on all the cables and lugs. Cables were in great shape with minimal oxidation. I didn’t have to cut more than 1 inch off any cable.
BTY that conductive grease is nasty. It’s not just greasy, but carbon black deep into the pores wash my hands 3 times nasty.
Showing the saturation I got on the cable from the lugs. That was before I even used heat. I used adhesive lined heat shrink from cable to lug, then also locked in the split loom. Colour coded of course.
KOER with glow plug relay still active. Never seen the voltage in the +12 before today. IIRC 11.7 -8 was average. Been a couple months since I fired it up though and my forgetter is getting better.
KOER after the GPR kicked out. That’s always been a variable based on GPR cycle and engine RPM.
The 23 year old factory terminals didn’t look bad but the results speak for themselves. I call this a success considering investment and time.
Also posted this in “what did you do to your rig today” but wanted to keep this thread up to date.
Stay tuned for tomorrow’s episode of “How did you make so much room in the valley”.
One word of advise from my experience....it's better to use tinned copper lugs in the engine bay or anywhere exposed to the elements. copper lugs will oxidize/corrode in no time
Interesting to see that you had a measurable increase in voltages after this. Factory left some on the table - or 20 years of degradation actually took a toll on those electrons.
One word of advise from my experience....it's better to use tinned copper lugs in the engine bay or anywhere exposed to the elements. copper lugs will oxidize/corrode in no time
I hadn’t considered that. Thanks for the heads up, and I will keep a watch over them.
This is a spray protector I’ve been using for years now to prevent corrosion on my battery terminals.
Today I finished up my GPR relocation and AIHR delete. Before… wires are removed but relays and bracket are still in place. After… so much more room in that tight valley. Wish I would have done this before the fuel pressure gauge. Would have made that job a lot easier.
I mounted the GPR on passenger inner fender. Lengthened all the related GPR wires to accommodate.
I’m not sure if I will keep the 6awg relay feed line separated or if I will tuck it into the same wire loom as the relay control and glow plug feed wires.
This is how it currently looks at the inner fender.
I even made a bracket to support the wiring harness.
I utilized one of the plenum bolt/studs to secure it.
I trimmed back and terminated the wires for AIH with heat shrink and taped to the harness before doing the wire loom. I know it will set a soft code, but no cel in dash. No biggie since that soft code has been there for years after deleting the heater element.
What is the reason for moving the GPR to the fender?
If I can’t get my Fuel Pressure where it needs to be with the fuel bowl FPR poppet and spring then I’m going to go with an external regulator and that will be where I mount it.
that's an interesting idea, always nice to get as much out of the valley area as possible. On my strictly/ driven/ ITP diesel kit; they have their fuel block mounted behind the HPOP. I think in the current kits, it's similar but they moved it slightly. Many ways to skin the cat i suppose
Noticed that my IPR plug seal was all gummy and gooey so decided that it was time to replace.
Stripped back the harness to the main trunk and checked the wires. All looked good, so I spliced in about 2-1/2 inches back.
Once the plug was out I got to take a closer look at it. Is it normal for the 2 wires to be fused to each other about 1/4” off of the plug?
Also found a small bare spot on the yellow wire. Seal on the plug has broken down.
Almost like extra insulation on the red wire where they we’re fused together.
Grey goo inside, I’m assuming that was an insulator material Small bare spot. Lines up with the fused area. I may have done this when I separated the 2 wires.
Sorry, can’t help with your questions but can relate to the gooey seal. Riffraff has just the seal but the shipping was 3x the cost of part. Called to ask about just putting into an envelope but that’s not a practice they will do.
So ended up ordering a cheap eBay pigtail and stealing the seal. Cost just slightly more than the seal itself at Riffraff.
Not sure why I wanted to share, except someone else may be in the same issue with just needing a seal.
