When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Fuel pressure with the Riff Raff black spring is 62lbs.
Drops to around 54lbs under foot to floor in 3rd TC locked in hot tune.
Fuel pressure still doesn’t bleed down after 20second timeout. Problem with return line. FPR poppet does have the bleed down hole, and FRx being post poppet that shouldn’t matter.
Gonna run it for now. 2nd day into my vacay and supposed to be 400 miles north of where I currently am.
Most people have to drive by the EGT, I’m gonna drive by the fuel pressure if it becomes an issue.
5 gallon in the bed is such a pita because you have to run the return line there too with no good spot to splice into that line without cutting it.
I also have a canopy/ topper/ shell so length of fuel lines to make that happen is outrageous.
But I get what you’re saying. That’s why I used the 5 gallon on the floor with only the feed line into it. Was hoping to see a pressure increase. None Noted.
Ah yes, I didn’t think about the return side. How long does it take to lose 5 gallon to the tank during this process with return going there? If it’s a few minutes that could still work for a quick confirmation. Carry an extra 5 gallon with you just in case. I understand the topper makes this much more difficult though too.
For now I hope you can enjoy your vacation and worry about all this later.
I checked again the pressure drop after pump times out. Mine goes to zero very quickly. It’s an electronic gauge so can’t check that since going key off kills the gauge.
Took a video with hopes it would be small enough to upload. Nope, not even after trimming. The video is 2 seconds long so that’s about how long it takes to drop to zero. Pretty smooth all the way down.
Ah yes, I didn’t think about the return side. How long does it take to lose 5 gallon to the tank during this process with return going there? If it’s a few minutes that could still work for a quick confirmation. Carry an extra 5 gallon with you just in case. I understand the topper makes this much more difficult though too.
Something tells me that 5 gallons would last a very long time based on the bleed down time of my fuel pressure once the 20second relay shuts off.
Thinking about the return restriction and shouldn’t that be similar to a deadhead but not fully plugged off.
Going off that thought, shouldn’t that cause higher pressure? Yet here I am with a 70lb FP spring sitting at 62lbs at idle.
Once I get back from this trip the tank will come down for the 3rd time. I will flush the return line and snake out the in tank pickup and return.
Sometimes when I have a problem where a seemingly logical progression of troubleshooting steps does not yield definitive answers, I go all the way back to first principles and start over. You may have to do that with this fuel pressure problem.
Sometimes when I have a problem where a seemingly logical progression of troubleshooting steps does not yield definitive answers, I go all the way back to first principles and start over. You may have to do that with this fuel pressure problem.
Ahhh, Sensei with words of wisdom.
If it were you where would you start the second time around.
If it were you where would you start the second time around.
I would rebuild the entire fuel system from the pickup in the tank through to the fuel line fittings in the heads. That does not necessarily mean I replace everything with new. I would take it all apart and clean the ever loving crap out of everything. Is it tedious? Yes, very, but it forces me to examine each and every part of the system and ensure it is functioning like it is supposed to.
As tempting as it is to add another cool mod to the truck, I refuse to go with a sump because that is the first place where all the crud from a bad tank of fuel will plug up.
If it were me I would start with 5 gallon bucket in bed and run rubber line to pump. Then another rubber line from pump to the flex lines at engine. Then you could run another piece of rubber from other flex line at engine back to the bucket. That will rule out almost the entire fuel system besides the engine side. Then if it's good then start adding the metal lines back in from pump to engine. Then add stock return back in and just let it return back to tank and pull out of bucket. That should narrow down where the problem lies.
I agree that a restriction in the return side should create higher pressure. One of my previous bosses used to say “when it doesn’t make sense, we don’t have all the data.” There’s something we’re overlooking. And like FTN said it may be something that’s already been “fixed.”
The pump seems to respond to varying FPR springs so it’s unlikely to be the culprit, at least on the idle pressure end of things. But a quick check would be to pinch the return line briefly to see if the pump spikes high. Doesn’t tell us anything about during high flow demand but is a quick check.
Since the tank of rusty fuel was introduced the delta between idle and heavy demand has been constant at 15lbs.
KOEO and fuel pressure climbs quickly to 80% value then slowly climbs to reach peak value. KOER is about the same.
Is this this happening - slowly reaching your nominal fuel pressure? That seems odd to me - I wonder if this is a clue. What would cause that - poppet starting to open maybe? Pump pressure/volume should be more than the flow past the fuel return poppet by quite a bit I would think.
Just checked mine. Pressure goes up to 65-66PSI quickly. While I rebuilt the fuel bowl, it still has the OEM FPR.
When the fuel pump relay kicks off, the pressure slowly drops. It's still over 25PSI after 3 minutes on my truck. Looks like I have a restriction too, but it does not appear to affect FP under load. It does not drop more than 5-6PSI with these 160/30's, though have not checked that with this latest tune.
Is the fuel pump getting full voltage in all running modes? Wondering if there's a voltage drop in the circuit that is reducing voltage to the pump. Just spitballing another idea.
Is the fuel pump getting full voltage in all running modes? Wondering if there's a voltage drop in the circuit that is reducing voltage to the pump. Just spitballing another idea.
I mentioned checking voltage at pump as well on it but don't think he got a chance to check yet.