Hmmmm… ask the CFO, AKA-Wife.

I want that sexy unit that BWST has where it’s incorporated into the mirror. Be nice to have the back up cam as well for lining up the hitch on the trailer.


Maybe I can tell her that if we could prove the damage to brakes was caused by negligence of another driver it would be covered under insurance I can get the funding approved.

 

I have a dashcam for the truck due to people acting like idiots around the 20,000 lbs of GCVW. I recently bought a 2 channel dashcam setup for our 2016 Escape run around car because it seems people are more interested in their Instagram than the road.

Anyway, after much internal debate for months I stumbled upon an offering from Viofo with the Sony Starvis 2 sensor. I was fortunate to see the A229 Plus on an Amazon flash sale for $150.

It is 1440p resolution on both channels, which suits my requirements quite well. What I am saying is there are affordable options out there, just define your requirements and do your research before selecting a product.

 

Tell her not getting one is a false economy. Then show her this video.

 

So back to the fuel pressure issue.

Still not happy with the idle pressure and drop under load.

Based on what has been done so far I’m confident it’s not between the fuel pump and bowl. I’m replacing the hard line from pump to flex line and installing the Riff Raff flex lines between frame and engine hard lines.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...to-bowl-99-03/

I don’t like the way the 30r9 terminates on the engine hard line. I couldn’t get it over the quick release bump no matter how hard I tried.

I ordered a new spring kit for the FPR just in case since I’m still sitting at 62-58 lbs at idle. It varies each time I fire it up.

Will confirm voltage at pump before I dig into anything further.

Will do a deadhead fuel pressure test on the pump to see what I have there if voltage is good.

Not sure what to expect but if 80psi is achieved I’d call that a pass. Thoughts please. Might check the pressure on the pump I replaced first to see what it’s putting out.

Will also run open line into a container and check for airation. 30r9 is over the quick release bump and double clamped at the fuel pickup, single clamped on barbed fittings at the fuel filter. Over the bump and double clamped at the pump

May be looking at dropping the tank again to confirm the entire pick up is clear. I only looked at the piece I added when doing the H&H mod.

On the bright side… fuel pressure still drops to 0 when the 20 second relay cuts out so return line is clear now.

Also bought the factory fuel bowl lid so that I can ditch the modified Baldwin lid that on it now.

Don’t ask me how much I paid for shipping, duty, and import brokerage fees.

 

In preparation for tomorrow’s opening up the fuel system, once again, I did a couple of preliminary tests.

Voltage at battery is 14.02, fuel pump is 13.64. Lines up with what Jeff saw on his truck.

Did a “full stop” deadhead on the return line and fuel pressure maxed out at 65psi.

I’m not playing in diesel fuel today since we have have a family thing and most people don’t enjoy that cologne.

 

OK…

So here is my conundrum.

Deadhead on removed and replaced fuel pump is at + 100psi






Cool, so now I know it wasn’t the pump, which I already know because I installed the replacement.

Climb underneath and deadhead the new pump expecting to see low pressure from an in tank restriction.




Damn.

Where the heck is this pressure bleeding off.

I did a deadhead on the return line and maxed out at 65.

 

Wonder if it's a internal issue with one of the injectors bleeding off pressure somehow? No diesel smell on coolant or oil?

 

Coolant smells like coolant. Looks clean with no floating scum on top.



Looks good. Passed the sniff test.

Dipped a paper towel. Came back clean antifreeze with no smell of diesel.


Oil smells like oil.

Deadhead on the return line yesterday was just clamping vise grips on the flex line between bowl to frame hard lines.

Just about to install this fitting and check pressure after FPR.

 

If you don't figure out anything there try capping the 2 feed lines from bowl to heads and then dead head test again. That may help you rule out a injector issure of some sort and figure out where the loss is at.

 

Good call.

just got fuel feed line hooked back up under the truck.

Moving to engine now for Return deadhead hook up to gauge.

Back in 1/2 hr with results.

 

Less than 1/2hr. Getting to be a pro at this.

FPR is the culprit.

 

Atleast you got it figure out. I can't remember if you did or not but didn't you replace it already with oem?

 

Yes Sir.

Just over 600 miles on it.

Now I have it narrowed down to one component. Not sure if it’s the FPR seat, or the spring yet.

I have a new set of FPR springs from Riff Raff I bought for a just in case. I’ll pull the regulator assembly apart one more time to inspect and will start with the black spring.

At any rate the diagnostic is done. Sure glad I didn’t go after the tank first.

 

Trying to remember, you got a load of bad fuel, with rust? If so, that may be messing with seats in fpr or partial plugging.

 

Its been a saga, but yes… that’s where it all started.

Quick Recap.

Dropped the tank and cleaned it all out.
Installed Baldwin BF1212 pre pump filter.
Flushed fuel pump.
Replaced with OEM FPR assembly.
Replaced new NAPA bowl filter with OEM.

Some improvement in FP but still dropping drastically under load.

Replaced fuel pump.

No change.

Removed FRX.

No change.

Today with the deadhead on return line both the post filter and remote pre filter pegged at +100psi.

Reattached the return line and back to 58psi on the black spring.

That’s it for today. Had yard work to do.