Can I test LPOP pressure from the HPOP reservoir fill plug or do I need to go to the lower block plug behind the oil filter?




Tester arrived today.

 

Thread right into the hpop reservoir site plug. #8 orb or something.

 

This is the same fitting as the fuel bowl. So I bought the 90deg adapter for the fuel bowl from diesel o-rings and ran my cts sensor in there. So I can watch it on the fly. After my scare w/ the oil change I keep an eye on that now.

 

Been a while since I have posted here so a duplicate post but keeping it up to date.

Recently have developed a screeching sound under moderate acceleration which I had believed to be a boost leak. This prompted me to replace the CAC boots which for a bit extra came with some shiny pipes.


Well this wasn’t the cause of the problem but did fix some boost pressure issues I was having.


This is the sound I’m hunting down. It’s been suggested turbo failure, boost leak, exhaust leak…

So to start my day I pulled the intake off and checked the impeller for shaft play. All good there since it’s less than 10k on a full 360° KC kit.


Boost leak checked without a single bubble to 35psi.

Still have to look into an exhaust leak but the truck was too warm to climb under and start reaching around to feel for a pressure leak. Some soot on the passenger side block but that was there from years ago when I had the manifolds resealed.

Went over to a friends and did a boosted launch without the launch. Under heavy brake load brought it up to 10psi and he feels it’s the serpentine belt slipping under load. Kinda makes sense since when the engine is cold I can’t duplicate the sound but once it warms up it is easy to replicate. A hot spring on the tensioner will not have the same spring pressure.

Going to deglaze the pulleys and go from there. May be time for a replacement tensioner.

Not 100% convinced this is the issue but there is some streaking on the belt so it is plausible. Also noted that with the AC off it was less noticeable.

 

Where did you get the filter base? Thinking about installing one pre-pump myself.

 

 

At approximately 4 hrs into my 6 hour commute to our property we had a bit of a mishap at 24psi of boost. About an hour before it popped I pulled up Jackass summit at 26psi


I was quite surprised by the sound of that coming off. Of course I knew what happened right away. Truck fell on its face, boost was at zero and EGT spiked.

I had driven around for about an hour after initially installing the pipes and boots, then did a hot re-torque.
I was surprised how much more I could tighten the clamps today when I checked them on the side of the road once they were fully heat soaked.

15 minutes and we were back on the road. I was a little timid at first tipping into the throttle and watching boost increase.

 

That’s the same spot mine kept blowing. I do not think the groove in the pipe is adequate to hold onto the boot with the rib inside it. Not at the pressures we are running. I’d recommend welding a nib or three on the end of this particular one.

Looking at both ends of these pipes, it seems that this connection is the only one that has enough movement to allow it to slip off. The other three connection points all have objects near the pipe that prevent easy blow off.

 

I had the boost pop my CAC tubes 3 times. Twice there, but more recently at the other end of that same pipe.

I much prefer an "outty" groove there not an "inny". But hair spray ftw!

 

Thanks David,

Jeff and I were texting earlier about this.

I’ve formed a contingency plan should it happen again.

I’m headed home on Sunday and if it pops again I will fix it on side of road and nurse it home. Then it’s over to a buddies place that has a tig welder to lay a bead to create a retention lip. Then I’ll have both, the inny groove and the outty bump.

I would do it myself with the mig but these sinister pipes are stainless. I don’t have the right wire or shielding gas for that.

 

Just got home from the property.

Did a couple of checks along the way of the boot and pipe.

1-1/2 hrs into the drive



It’s pretty clear to see that it is working its way out. Dust line from some gravel roads to clean pipe.


4-1/2 hours into drive.

It’s worked it’s way out quite a bit now. The trip home is a lot more downhill than the trip up. Pretty sure it would have popped again if I was headed up.

 

look at that. I was having the same problem on this trip. I think those welded bits will lock that down for you. Otherwise, we would need more surface area and double clamps I think at these higher pressures.

 

So to be clear Jeff,

your pipe alway slips at the pipe on the hot side of the spyder.

You said even on this latest trip? If I recall correctly you have welded some ribs ( or as the food thread RUBS) onto your pipe as a clamp retainer. Did it still slip to a point of worry it would soon pop, or slip just enough to lock it in and now your confidently good to go.

I have a buddy that is excellent on a tig so it will be a trip to his place with both pipes in hand. I figure if I’m going to do one side I might as well do all 4.

 

I went with a ring of 1/8" brass rod that drops into the groove to solve the pipe-slipping-out-problem.

 

Yep, it slipped out on the hot side of the spider - the CAC pipe side, just like yours - on this latest trip. I believe I still did not have the clamps tight enough, and so the pipe, even with 3 welded bumps, came off again.

Never did learn brazing - FTN's method would be a good one too.