A proper pickup that reaches the bottom of the tank does the same thing.

 

I 100% agree. But wanting to step up from 5/16” it was either a

Evil Energy $80.00 cad

Riff Raff https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffr...e-fuel-pickup/. $479.18 cad

Even Fass is promoting their no drop sump systems.

The biomass wasn’t the primary reason for the sump assembly. I just listed it as a benefit. With my Hutch and Harpoon the SSJ way after using the fuel pump to drain the tank there was less than 1/2 gallon when I drilled my pilot hole.

 

I found that my umbrella (still in tact) supported fuel pickup didn't quite do the same thing as an externally mounted bottom sump might have done.

Cuing Rihanna, what I found under my umbrella (ella-ella, eh eh eh) was a crusted clump of coagulated corrosion that I was fortunate had not congealed to block the entrance to the pickup tube. I suspect that sticky mass would have entirely blocked a bottom sump.

It is one thing seeing folks in Southern and Southwestern states do various modifications. But once someone above the 46th parallel does a mod, it catches my attention, because the seasonal changes are more challenging in Northern states for various aftermarket modifications to have to contend with.

As an aside, I did not drop the tank to do a Hutch or Harpoon mod. The extra non-fillable space in an unmolested as built factory fuel tank is by design, and I didn't want to undo that design, nor that of the fuel recirculation module in the fuel sending unit assembly.

I only dropped the tank to install a receiver hitch, but while it was down, I took a look inside the tank, because this was during the time that ULSD was first introduced (in California, a couple of years prior to the nationwide mandate) and I was curious about the net effect of the process used to strip the sulfur out of the fuel, which left a fuel solution that eventually stripped the lining out of metal tanks produced by Ford after a certain date, and my fuel tank was produced just prior to that date.

As for errant grains of hay field dust being the cause of biomass in diesel fuel... today, diesel fuel is made with biomass. The feedstock ingredients for modern, mandated diesel fuels are animal fats from meat processing plants, used cooking oil from restaurants, and vegetable oils derived from organic crops such as canola, soybeans, and corn.

These biomass ingredients are not just in B5 and B20 biodiesel blends. Biomass is the principal ingredient of Renewable Diesel, which is distinct from Biodiesel by treatment processes. Renewable Diesel is R95 or R100, meaning 95% or 100% biomass sourced diesel, that is not derived from crude oil. 100% Renewable Diesel is all that my nearest fuel depot sells, because California mandates the use of Renewable diesel in all off road construction equipment.

Microbial and bacterial growth in diesel might happen anyway, even if filling the fuel tank in a negative pressure clean room.

Larger fuel lines, more filtration surface area, and higher pumping capacity in excess of the fuel consumption rate of the engine, would appear to have a positive effect in keeping the fuel circulating, warmer, and presumably cleaner.

The externally mounted sump below the lowest gravity rest point below the fuel tank is what captured my curiosity.

And now, back to the Starting Point!

 

That’s why I said proper pickup.
https://a.co/d/4EZDZba

 

FASS, I went through two of there top of the line pumps. Both failed when I was a long way from home. neither the installer or the company could give me a reason for the FASS system failure. So I built my own. This is when I learned that my 7.3 could run without a fuel pump. When the pump dropped pressure, a suction event formed by the injectors and drew fuel into the motor. I drove about 400-500 freeway miles with a cooked Fass pump. Ahhh! The good old days!

As far as the sump goes...here's a couple things.
I look at it as pressure builder that takes a little strain off of the fuel pump. That inline ball valve is needed when I change my fuel filters. Why? Because there is 40 gallons of oil trying to push it's way out of the AN-10 opening in the sump. The sheer weight/gravity of the fuel is quite an boost to the pump.
Also, anyone follow the big ocean going boat guys? You know the guys with the huge twin diesels power plants and surrounded by water?. On board their yachts fuels systems they include a "Fuel Polishing System". This system constantly recirculates the fuel all the time through a filtration/water system to clean the fuel to assure that there are no fuel issues at sea. They also can run this system from shore if the boat has been sitting for a length of time. 200-300 gallons of fuel gone bad can be costly! So I figure a little extra filtration with a good pump or pumps can't hurt. Of course sucking out of the lowest part of the tank can't hurt either. I built my system to be efficient and dependable. The factory fuel system is good, but it can be easily be made better. The nice thing is that you can taylor it to you own needs.

 

@Hyperpasta

Good point about fuel polishing systems, both on board and ashore for boats that are docked for long periods of time.

 

Having a hard time finding the rubber boots that protect the electrical connectors on the fuel pump.




Found something that might work on Amazon.


Been to 4 different places looking for these with no luck sourcing locally.

 

while not re-useable...liquid electrical tape is a good product to protect electrical/ power connections like that

 

Yeah, I looked at that stuff on the shelf at one of the places I was in today.


I’m contemplating where to take the 6an line to.

Either I connect into the flex line that runs from the motor to frame here.



or I connect into the flex line that would have connected to the fuel pump at the factory mount location here.




I’m thinking the first to reduce connections, but also concerned about heat from the exhaust manifold.

 

How is your truck so clean???
It seems like it would be easier/ cleaner to the first location. If you are worried about heat, you can get some heat insulation of some sort or make a heat shield. If the lines stay near factory locations, heat shouldn't be an issue.

 

It gets driven 7 months of the year April through October and only has 212k on it in Kilometres so we’ll call that 132k in miles.

 

Canadian dirt is too polite to stick to trucks.

 

Canadian dirt is too polite to be on the roads.

Sorry, I forgot to mention that my truck is a pavement princess.

 

I think the "sock" pick up would be great, but since I never saw anyone using it, I went with the simple SSJ bent aluminum tubing method and added a series of drilled 3/16" holes towards the end in case something blocked the end of tube - probably unlikely I know.

 

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