I highly recommend this for a replacement.
https://www.gohypermax.com/ProductDi...a-9bcaa7ef9030

 

My PMS isn’t so bad as to justify that cost.

Great white north add 30% + shipping and duty.

I knew about the Mishimoto and the Banks as aftermarket choices, but not that one.

It’s fixed now and should perform fine for my meager needs, MST with 80hp DD tune.

 

Oh yah? Yoo doon't saay?

 

The Tapercore takes full advantage of the entire depth of opening between the top and bottom rad support structures. It continues to reign as the largest charge air cooler ever made for the 99-03 7.3L.

The OEM intercooler stops short of full depth, so that there is no overlap between it and the OEM automatic transmission cooler in the heat exchanger stack.

The V10 automatic transmission cooler is the largest OTA trans cooler one can install without overlap, to avoid the heat released from the transmission cooler being the "cooling air" passing through the intercooler.

However, once one upgrades to the 32 row or 26 row 6.0L OTA transmission cooler, overlap becomes a given, and it is unavoidable for the heat released from the transmission cooler to become the "cooling air" that the intercooler must accept, given that the intercooler is located behind the transmission cooler in the stack.

So then, might as well get the deeper Tapercore in that situation, to distribute the charge air through more passages at once.

What I do NOT like about the Tapercore is the abrupt right angle transition (read: restriction) at the header tanks.

One doesn't see these abrupt 90° entrances to the charge air coolers on heavy duty trucks with engines from Cummins, Volvo, Detroit. In these vehicles, the header tank entrances are smoothly radiused, not an abrupt wall.

The Banks Technicooler for the 7.3L application is engineered the same way as the heavy trucks, with cast header tanks that are gradually curved in all directions to create a smoothly radiused expanding entry into the charge air cooler fin field.

 

I was surprised to see how much debris is collected on the radiator considering how much is stacked up in front of it.

I brushed about 50% off already by hand. Tomorrow before the intercooler goes back in I will wash both the condenser and the rad.

 

After it all went back together out for a shakedown spirited drive.

30psi in my 80dd so happy with that.

Got to thinking about the state of my fuel bowl when I first changed my filter this year.




If that’s what the fuel bowl looked like… what does the pre fuel pump wix 33972 look like, or the tank for that matter.

Climbed underneath and now have a filter on order based on what it looked like. I’ll take a picture tomorrow but it wasn’t a pretty sight.

Hmmm… drop the tank, or lift the box.

 

Heres the pre pump picture.





I dunno where I picked up the bad fuel from. I can only imagine what the tank looks like.

 

My pre-pump WIX has a little bit of the same looking type of material in it too. Wonder what it is? Looks rusty to me. But a plastic tank 🤷‍♂️. Maybe from the fuel station tanks.

 

Yup. I’m thinking the same thing. Fuel station tank debris.

I won’t fuel up at a station that is getting filled from a tanker for that exact reason. Had a problem years ago in a Datsun and had to eventually drop the tank to clean it out.

I’ll know within the hour if I have to drop the tank. Headed out to the shop to change the filter and blow air through the line and then see what fuel pressure looks like after.

If not from there, then the FPR is next to be looked at.

 

Found the problem.

after replacing the filter and blowing out the line FP was still at 52-55 and would drop significantly with a stab at the pedal.


Went after the FPR next. Cleaned it all up and replaced the O-ring and Parker sleeve. Installed the RDP black spring. 65psi at an idle.

Next is the test drive to confirm.

Filter was full of rust.



That’s a lot of crap in there.

Probed with a magnet. Yup its ferrous.

 

Better but not fixed.

Seeing a fuel pressure drop of 15lbs under load.

In my mind it can only be the fuel pickup, or the fuel pump.

SSJ hutch mod has been done.

Brand new Motorcraft fuel filter, Brand new wix 33972 pre pump filter.

65lbs at idle, dropping to 50lbs at heavy throttle.

Is it possible that the rusty fuel has taken out my fuel pump?

 

How did the poppet seat look when you had the FPR apart? (Taking about that little beveled gasket that sits on the plunger). I experienced similar symptoms, installed a new fuel pump, and that wasn’t the problem. These parts fixed my issue: https://dieselorings.com/products/7-...ef-rebuild-kit

 

It looked good with no nicks or debris on it. The spring didn’t look pretty though. That’s why I went with the black spring over the what was once gold spring.

I’m going to drop the tank and clean it out. It’s a shame that there isn’t a low point drain on them. That would make flushing out the tank an easy job. But I do want to visually verify the pick up tube so I would have to drop the tank no matter what.

I won’t put the new FPR in until the tank is cleaned. Current one has only been in for 4 years 12k miles. I think they should last longer than that.


Local STEALERSHIP wants $176 for the poppet and seat. Found one in Manitoba for $116 which is cheaper than I can get the Diesel-O-Rings landed cost up here. Plus I have a co-worker in our Winnipeg branch that will go pick it up and send as an inter-office transfer so I save the shipping.

Sure wish you knew where the bad fuel came from. Not that I would go after them for repairs, but would know where not to fill. This is becoming a time consuming PITA.

 

I think your PrePump filter is way too small,
put a BIG filter on it,

my truck has the Wix 24006 on it, it is as big as the 7.3's oil filter.
( that Wix 24006 was installed by the Fire Department 20 years ago )

a year ago, I was having running problems also, I bought a new fuel pump from O'Reilly's, the best one they have, $200 it cost me, but it and a new PrePump fuel filter fixed my truck.





my fuel tank has a Sump on it now, no more worries about the in-tank filters stopping up

 

Starting to see the merits of a fuel tank sump with a bigger pre-pump filter.

I’m leery about the single centre fastener for clamping pressure to seal the O-ring to the tank, but see that is what you have installed. Also has to have a drain plug for periodic let’s get the crap out of the bottom of the tank.

If I go this route, would also like to install a glass ( read clear )water separator as a pre filter so that I can visually check to see what is going into the filter.

I don’t know if I’m thinking overkill, but I don’t want to chase this down again the next time I choose the wrong fuel station.