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I know the @$$ clown things the PO did and I am expecting to find more stupid things
when I get to pulling the heads. I will take my time and do the full build up.
You guys are making me feel good about my truck. Bought it from the original owner who didn't do any of his own repairs. Didn't even change his own oil. I have most of the receipts.
My first one that I wrecked was done at a dealership and well cared for.
Other than the trans taking a dump the only real problem I had was the
FICM power board popping one of the caps and blowing a hole in the board.
Hartwig it is a Magnefine power steering fluid filter 3/8” hose which is close enough to 9.5mm to fit.
The engine is purring like a kitten, no more leaks of any kind except the air conditioner condensation drip. I have been working the last 7 days so not driving it much. I’m at 145 miles!
No, my oil pressure regulator had a split o ring (new) and possible spring tension issue causing higher LPO pressure than the front crank seal could handle. The o-ring was for sure, the rest was speculation but it all fixed the drip. Sean nailed that theory.
a 6.0 is a frigging thing. :-)
Did you check the base oil pressure? Where? In front of the connection where you've been pumping in oil?
I did not test LPO pressure, Sean and I just speculated that the spring length being shorter on the new regulator could be the reason oil appeared to be seeping out around the front crank seal. I used a tiny inspection mirror to peek at it through the front of the harmonic balancer pulley. There was oil all the way around it but it could have just been from the regulator leaking and blowing up on it while driving 75-80mph. It was a very light leak, barely enough to make a mess but it was enough to aggravate me because I want zero leaks of any kind on a fresh rebuild.
I’m not real happy with the VHT paint on the block, it is still tacky when the engine is at operating temperature. Maybe after several heat cycles it will cure. David painted his rebuild with it and has had no issues in a year since he painted it.
I think these days off I am going to take my rear bumper to my buddy that runs a welding/fabrication business and help him modify it to fit my rear hitch mounting brackets then paint it with Epoxy paint like the front one and remove and paint my tan cladding black to match. I really want either black OE running boards or fabricate some steps.
You didn't get that wrong Hartwig, its what I tried to show in post 449, as long as the wire diameter, the number of coils and coil diameter is the same. Free length shorter is lower at the same compressed height.
Thank you, I agree. I know it often reads stupid, but I often have to ask several times because of my weak language skills :-/ Where would you check the base oil pressure? On the front of the test port the oil cooler housing or the oil pressure switch port?
You can do either, or if you have an aluminum oil filter cap you can check from there. I've done the cap, the oil sensor thread is too fragile for me to want to do unless I was planning on using a Heli-coil or other thread repair at that port. I'm doing the "test port" at the front of the motor in the future. I've had a bypass oil filter with a higher micron on my 7.3 and briefly had it on the 6.0. They don't make the filters or it anymore, so it may be off the test port too.
You didn't get that wrong Hartwig, its what I tried to show in post 449, as long as the wire diameter, the number of coils and coil diameter is the same. Free length shorter is lower at the same compressed height.
I always get one thing stuck in my head and it applies to other similar things. In the oilfield most of our valves work opposite of this. The leak is gone.
