Rebuild Thread
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,824
Likes: 3,104
From: Jersey Shore
If it works, it works. Like I wrote, I didn't flip the situation around, if it was that, you could have had 90psi before hitting the ceiling. Sean's was a good suggestion.
I would have been surprised if you had a seal problem using the tool.
Coil springs are just a coiled torsion bar.
I would have been surprised if you had a seal problem using the tool.
Coil springs are just a coiled torsion bar.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
I know Jack, I was shocked to think that the new seal and wear ring installed on a perfectly smooth and clean snout using Loctite 680 would leak that soon when you see these gorillas chiseling the wear rings off, beating the seals in place with a hammer etc.
I will keep you guys posted, this may save someone some time, money and worry if they run across it in a search.
I will keep you guys posted, this may save someone some time, money and worry if they run across it in a search.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,824
Likes: 3,104
From: Jersey Shore
My old company was/is the OE manufacturer of the rear seal, and I believe the front too. A good company friend of mine had just taken over as director of the group when the 6.0 was launched. The tools were designed so a cave man could do it, but in reality an experienced, good mechanic should have no problems with standard tools. The key is not distorting the OD metal ring, which therefore distorts the sealing lips. But that does take the right tools and experience, and while the front seal carries the same do-over effort of a rear hub seal, a rear main seal leak is brutal. In the DIY world, the right tool defaults to an almost close socket to “I’m sure if I just tap around the edges with my carpenters hammer i’ll be good” as we know.
And yes, I have both OE style tools.
And yes, I have both OE style tools.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
That is what I am looking for. Some thing I can take my time on.
That way I can do it right and not be without the truck for months.
That way I can do it right and not be without the truck for months.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
Assembling does not take long. Once you get the block on the stand you could have it knocked out and in the truck in a day. I took longer painting and cleaning fasteners than actual assembly.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 934
From: Fort Worth, TX
What do they do with said cores? Their 6.0 heads are advertised as having new castings that solve all the problems with the factory designs.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
You could probably make them out of that material. I borrowed the OTC install tools and can take photos tonight unless someone beats me to it. Sean has them too.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
Useless cores go to scrap, he gets them by the truckload for short and long block builds.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Either you were I can post the photos for those tools.
What I’m looking for is an engine I can make sure that
the deck is nice and clean because I worry about the
one in the truck I think the previous owner may have
used an angle grinder with scotch bright pads.
What I’m looking for is an engine I can make sure that
the deck is nice and clean because I worry about the
one in the truck I think the previous owner may have
used an angle grinder with scotch bright pads.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
Sean as I told you the other day, the previous owner took a rotating tool of some sort to mine and I drove it over 30k with compromised head gaskets and hand lapped the decks and sealed fine for 5200 miles on new UCF heads before the injector cups started leaking fuel into the coolant. It took TEM 0.003” to correct even after that.