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I inspected everything as I assembled and the mating surfaces looked perfectly smooth, flat and I cleaned them with acetone in preparation. If the 13.5 quarts does the trick I’ll leave it be. The next time this engine comes out (if there is one) a 12 valve is going back in it’s place and I’ll part out the engine.
I found some raised nubs from the bedplate probably being dropped at the rebuilder. Keith Browning (Ford Doc) founds a lot of bedplate issues early on with our early trucks.
Still dripping from both sides, I’m thinking it’s the oil pan. Once this rain sets in I’ll get in and look at it while I’m replacing the hydroboost. I resealed the existing one and it started dripping again between the flange where the master cylinder bolts up. I should have bought a new Motorcraft unit while I was in there but I figured a reseal would fix it...
I was telling bismic I want to just fabricate an aluminum drip pan with an oil absorbent pad insert...leaking SOB!
Now, you didn't know me when I bought my 2003 6.0L new, when oil drips were the rage and people were having the trans pulled so oil seals could get replaced.
The back story, my company made the oil seals and were getting charged back $800 for every repair. And my good friend who I worked with for many years on the brake side became a director in the seal's group. I gathered. It turned out that it was motor oil but not our issue.
Anyway, if there's an opportunity to use something to post in a forum humorously, I'll do it. At TDS I started this as though I was selling them, even brought it to the Powerstroke GTG we had in the Adirondacks.
Did you flatten the oil pan flange before putting it back on?
SmackDaddy, are you meanwhile happy with the paint on your engine? I thought you used heat-resistant paint. I think a good two-component lacquer would also be sufficient. I have painted my brake calipers with it, so far no problems.
Jack that is too funny! I knew I wasn’t the first to think of a drip pan! No, I didn’t flatten the pan before putting it back on, I didn’t know that was something I was supposed to do. Please elaborate.
Hartwig, that is a dripper too huh? I’m not happy with the VHT paint, the block paint is still gummy and wipes off with very little pressure. I’m pretty pissed because I followed those application directions as well and the block was super clean. The other paint was better.
Sometimes I was asked about the Harley exclusion, and like Hatwig’s Land Rover, I would say if it’s a Harley Davidson Edition, it should be designed to leak.
I’ve have a video posted about salvaging my oil pan, with its condition you would have replaced it. The flange lip distorts from the gasket bolt-up so it never achieves as tight of a seal, and probably less on a second bolt-up. I hammer flattened the pan’s flange, used the RTV, and welded up a reinforcement to prevent the distortion. I can't say if an after the fact reinforcement would seal the pan better, I don't know year if it worked.
International should have designed the sealing of the oil pan like what is done for the valve covers and transmission pan, flat gasket using standoffs at the bolts to ensure designed compression of the gasket; it would have sealed without distortion. They knew the concept for the valve covers, they are both a laminated design, probably both from MSC. At the time I was also thinking about doing away with the o-ring seal altogether and just using the RTV as we do with the differential covers.
The other trouble with Land Rovers is they rust quicker than an F250. Even in the last year of production they were being sold new with rust weeping around the fenders.
The other trouble with Land Rovers is they rust quicker than an F250. Even in the last year of production they were being sold new with rust weeping around the fenders.
Please let us know what you think of the Blue Top, I’m considering one for my truck at some point.
i have that i installed about 3k miles ago and its been great so far took a lot of the play away from my steering. Core return was easy , they gave me a military discount as well.
I’m loving the Blue Top Steering Gear so far. It tightened up my steering quite a bit but I also replaced all hydroboost lines and PS pump. I’m about to swap the hydroboost for a new Motorcraft unit from Rockauto. One of my steering gear fittings loosened up and is leaking so I’m knocking that out here in a little bit as well. Always something...
The high pressure fitting was loose on the steering gear. Quick fix, degreased everything and drove 30 miles then let it sit. Oil leak at the rear of engine also stopped so maybe it was the bedplate since I drained and refilled with 13 1/2 quarts. Waiting on more time to swap hydroboost.
