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I don't know if it cured or not. I just know that I have no leaks...anywhere.
I wish this forum app had a Like! button.
Not that it matters now but when I was rebuilding hydraulic final drives on JD dozers there were no oring or gasket seals, just machined flange to flange and I used Hylomar. It didn't cure either but it also never leaked.
Hylomar is also used on Harley’s, it like Reinzoplast, not the same as Hartwig recommended, but both are polyurethane based. Hylomar, like Yamabond, are non-hardening compounds for metal flanges without gaskets. We have gaskets, rubber cords and o-rings.
The problem using the Anaerobic Permatex is that it is designed for metal to metal like the Hylomar and Yamabond applications, but it is supposed to fully harden in the air tight application. It’s also not the same as Hylomar et.al., it’s silicone based. It didn’t cure as I discovered when I took my lower end back apart. When talking to Permatex, the rep said it was not made for what Powerstrokers are trying to use it for, and it should not be used. Technically, we should not be applying any secondary materials with the cord or o-ring style gasket. They should seal fine without anything.
Ford markets several different RTV compounds, several are grey, but they are not the same!
I should have just ran a bead of clear silicone on all the surfaces, let it tack up then assemble. Nothing pisses me off more than a leaking engine. Embarassing.
They "should " seal fine but they don't. My truck had the engine pulled and the bedplate resealed under warranty the first year it was on the road, it's an 03', I bought it in 04' and the bedplate developed a (small) leak not too long after I bought it.
Use NO Hylomar on a ( 6.0 ) Motor! I'm sure you have as good a sealant in the USA as I have here in Merkel Germany. Test the Reinzosil! Or, this one is equivalent:
Elring/DIRKO-S Profi Press
I have not used Hylomar for over 10 years. I repair engines and gearboxes every day and have absolutely no problems with DIRKO-S Profi Press or Reinzosil. It is important, that the sealant can dry 24 hours. 100% recommendation from me.
I hope it's just a small problem SmackDaddy! throw yourself under your truck
I have not been home since I post about the leak. I may get to go home this evening or tomorrow. I work 14-16 hour days and my girlfriend lives close to where I work so I stay with her a lot. We shall see soon!
They "should " seal fine but they don't. My truck had the engine pulled and the bedplate resealed under warranty the first year it was on the road, it's an 03', I bought it in 04' and the bedplate developed a (small) leak not too long after I bought it.
Don't disagree with that, I said should, and why I used a sealer in conjunction.
This thread going off the rails! No one knows where the oil is coming from. How about figuring that out first.
Last edited by TooManyToys.; May 17, 2020 at 11:05 AM.
Reason: (frigging oil)
Looks like the bedplate on the passenger side is leaking. Degreased, washed and drained 13 1/2 quarts and discarded the rest then refilled. Dipstick level is a little below center of hash marks on the indicator. Just drove it 40 miles and will see what it looks like in the morning. I will get the borescope camera out and take some photos and video of the bedplate area.
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