Here is a short video.
The puller I like is the other style that has a ring that goes over two halves of the flange grip.

The video shows the one half version.

This one shows the two halves style

 

I have the two-halves style, it works well.

 

I do too.
The funny thing is when I go to buy the tool They keep wondering why I am not renting the "free" tool.
I just tell them I want a new one and I will not be bring it back. I also did that with the degas test adaptor
kit so that you can use the older style cooling system pressure tester.

 

I rented one from O’Reilley’s and swapped the pulley this morning. All good now except a little oil on the end of the oil pressure regulator plug. I’m going to drive it a few times and see if it seals itself, if not I will replace the o-ring and hope that was the culprit and not the fresh front crank seal. The regulator was a new Motorcraft and I installed to torque spec like everything else.

 

I wish I could have kept up with your thread way more than I did. I absolutely love this stuff, but sometimes life just gets in the way. Glad you got her running. You'll get it all like you want it too soon and be looking for something else--LMAO. Good Fishing!!!!

 

Thank you! I love wrenching too but it’s time to go fishing again. I have never been off the water this long.

 

I got under the front after driving 45 miles this morning and used my inspection mirror and LED shop light and confirmed the front crank seal has a slight leak when running. It stops as soon as the truck shuts off and will not develop even one drop. I removed the seal and installed per instructions with OTC tools. This is aggravating. I know how to swap it and the wear ring and have plenty of green Loctite left BUT want to make sure I know what caused it. The crank snout was perfectly smooth and the machine shop ground the crank to fit the new bearings. All specs were met.
Thoughts before I tackle this again? I am going to order the seal and a new LPOP cover just for peace of mind. I don’t want a drop of oil from this thing unless it’s off the end of the dipstick!

 

Just out of curiosity have you checked the low pressure oil pressure?

 

I have not put a gauge on it, no sir. I have the fitting to make up a direct gauge line to the cab. Are you thinking my low pressure oil could be too high? I replaced the LPOP and regulator with Motorcraft parts. Everything was Motorcraft that I replaced. Is the regulator there to keep the pressure constant or hold back what the LPOP produces? I have the old regulator I could swap.

 

As I understand it and this one should be the same.
The regulator dumps any excess pressure back into the oil pan.

If anyone knows that it's different please speak up.

 

After the phone call what did you find last night?

 

I removed the new oil pressure regulator and found the o-ring was cut even with me using assembly lube during installation. I checked the cylinder for scoring and it was perfect. I compared the springs and the old spring was about 1/8” longer than the new one which was odd. I would believe it being longer would hold back more pressure so I installed the old spring with new cylinder and new o-ring from another oil seal kit. I drove it 10 miles on the highway getting oil temperature up to 200 degrees (new 200 degree Mishimoto thermostat) and came home to find only one drop of oil on the regulator head. I degreased the engine with Dawn and hot water in a spray bottle, let it sit and then pressure washed it and went for another 15 mile drive and immediately pulled in the shop to inspect and not a drop of oil anywhere.
I have a hard time believing the o-ring was leaking by and causing oil to get behind the harmonic balancer pulley on the seal. I honestly thing Sean was dead on when he text me last night after our discussion and asked if I had checked my low pressure oil pressure. I still want to install a gauge to monitor base oil pressure soon. I’m about to go drive it some more and run errands then come back for further inspection. I ordered a new LPO pump front cover, crank seal, crank pulley bolts and regulator o-rings to have just in case...
Thanks for the idea Sean, I think you might have figured it out. The regulator spring was allowing the pressure to get high enough to push oil past the front crank seal. That’s all I can think.

 

O-ring as it came out

New regulator spring on the left, old one on the right...the old one is longer.

 

There's a lot of if's in that presumption.

My early career included making carbon fiber springs along with other stuff.

Those are two different spring designs. One is a right-hand twist and the other is left. Left or right doesn't matter, and maybe a manufacturer is doing both for kicks, but .... that's weird for an OE design.

A compression springs rate is dependent on wire diameter, mean coil diameter (you can use OD), overall length, and coils per inch. The compressed height will change the values. So everything like the base and the piston have to be exactly the same between the two examples or you might want a different uncompressed height.

So those two have the same active coil count, although you didn't make it easy.

Your springs and using an online calculator, with a presumption of the needed compressed height. If everything is exactly the same, the difference with the uncompressed spring heights.









Maybe the old one is just a fatigued spring and was needed to be changed. I'd be more inclined it's about the O-ring, are the air vortex behind that pulley and you inflowing air can get quite interesting. Or not and a 10psi differntial overwhelms the seal, I didn't do the calculation the other way if the new spring was not correct. If the wire diameter was a little smaller by a few thou, it would need to be longer.

My parts if you want to compare:

 

Very interesting, thanks Jack! I will get my cheesy micrometer out later and inspect the new spring. Either way, swapping the o-ring and using my old spring seems to have mitigated the leak. I could see someone else seeing what I saw and just replacing the crank seal and having the same result after. That could get very discouraging. I’m going to keep an eye on it over the next few runs. I have four of those red o-rings on the way and I will swap it when they come in.