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I think the oil leaking from the rear glow plug harness on both sides was caused by my CCV modification that had a 1” draft hose running all the way to the rear bumper through the frame rail and was causing excess crankcase pressure.
What do you mean, brother? How should pressure be created in the hose? Or have you narrowed the diameter at one position? In my truck it steams out of a hose behind the transfer case
Hartwig this CCV mod subject has been beaten to death for a very long time. I once believed that running a hose like yours was the way to go but after many days of research I came to the conclusion that there is a reason the crankcase needs a vacuum pulled on it by the turbo or a bung in the exhaust. Too many people have done the CCV mod and almost immediately started having oil leaks. My engine is sealed up CORRECTLY and the glow plug harnesses are brand new Motorcraft and are both leaking from the rear two plug o rings. I’m not getting in an argument about it because it’s been discussed so extensively there is no reason to argue. Many diesel engines have CCV systems on them, lots of larger diesel engines on boats and other equipment use these Racor and Mann Hummel CCV Filters that are designed for certain horsepower engines based on CFM. I have a few good links but this forum will not allow me to copy and paste them.
Where is this oil leaking from? Is it on both sides of your engine? Check your rear glow plug harness where it enters the rocker box...
thank you, now I understand what you mean.
The "oil leak" is just a very slightly wet spot, nothing I would worry about. I have the usual oil drops hanging under the converter housing. But I think the oil is more likely coming from the bedplate, oil pan or rear main seal.
The drips have always been there though, long before the CCV reroute upgrade....whether the engine needs a vacuum to be "tight" I can't say.
At some time I will remove the engine and fix that....
Thank you!
Alright...round 2 transmission swap! I finally got time away from my second job to swap this Warren Diesel Competition Plus transmission they sent to replace the Competition trans that they used aftermarket solenoids in and it was not shifting smoothly no matter what tunes I had written for it. This truck is not my daily driver but I have put about 5000 miles on it since the first trans swap and it seems to have started shifting more smoothly but still not like it should. I got my UCF traction bars installed too and they really help power transfer to the ground. I also had a rear driveshaft u-joint go bad a couple of weeks ago. I felt driveline vibration and it was getting worse so I pulled the driveshaft and found one of the cup seals was compromised and slung out all the grease and reduced the needle bearings to black dust. I put new heavy duty Spicers in it and she’s smooth as butter again.
Yesterday I got the transmission and transfer case out and got the new transmission prepped, on the jack and swapped the Goerend torque converter from the other one into this new one since they were going to have to wait for the current illegitimate administration’s self inflicted supply chain issues to let up before I got one. I decided to have them send me the replacement transmission with no TC and just swap the nearly new one into it. I’ll be good for at least 800 horsepower with this one and I doubt I will ever go that big with injectors and turbo. I may upgrade to 200/100 injectors and a bigger turbo later but for now I am very happy with her get up and go!
I will get more photos today as I install everything and note what sockets, wrenches and tools are needed for each fastener. That should help some folks that want to swap their transmission themselves in the future.
I hope the fact that you haven't given us an update yet doesn't mean you ran into any snags.
None at all! I had to knock it out double time because I decided to take my son and mother to the Texas State Aquarium for Valentine’s Day. I was done by 6pm Friday and went for a few test runs then made a round trip to Corpus Christi yesterday with no issues. She’s shifting perfectly and I’m happy. The UCF traction bars made a huge difference in how smooth it shifts as well especially when you get on the skinny pedal. During my pre-purchase research there were a lot of guys stating that traction bars do not do much for axle wrap but I guess they didn’t consider UCF’s design because they seriously make the truck run through the gears so much more smoothly and acceleration is instantaneous unlike before where the axle wrap made the truck squat and “load up” as some of the power was lost and absorbed by the leaf springs.
Tools I used:
Milwaukee 90 degree 3/8” cordless ratchet (the one Diesel Tech Ron used all the time...most useful tool I own I think)
Harbor Freight Transmission Jack (the high capacity model)
3 ton floor jack to lift the front of the truck by the front diff to clear transmission while removing
12mm 12 point socket for four front drive shaft to t-case bolts (needs orange or red loctite)
15mm socket to remove transmission support bolts
21mm to remove two transmission support bracket studs
13mm socket for two bolts holding that bracket on transmission
13mm ratcheting flex wrench for transfer case to transmission bolts
13mm socket with 3” and 6” extension and long flex head ratchet for long bell housing bolts
13mm socket and ratchet for four bottom bell housing bolts
18mm socket and breaker bar to turn flywheel with harmonic balancer bolts
10mm deep with 6” extension and ratchet for Goerend ARP flywheel to TC bolts (stock TC has studs and 14mm nuts)
Telescoping inspection mirror to see torque converter bolts through side port hole
1” open ended wrench for transmission line adapter fittings (for holding backup while removing lines)
3/4” open ended wrench for transmission lines
10mm shallow socket for transmission wire harness bolt (do not over tighten or you’ll snap it like I did...)
10mm deep with 3” extension for transmission pan bolts
10mm wrench for rear pan bolts due to crossmember clearance
10mm socket to remove dipstick tube but from passenger valve cover
Harbor Freight Transmission Jack (the high capacity model)
Is one nice jack. I have one for my truck also. The only think I did not
like about it is they ship it dry and don't tell you on the box.
The UCF traction bars made a huge difference in how smooth it shifts as well especially when you get on the skinny pedal. During my pre-purchase research there were a lot of guys stating that traction bars do not do much for axle wrap but I guess they didn’t consider UCF’s design because they seriously make the truck run through the gears so much more smoothly and acceleration is instantaneous unlike before where the axle wrap made the truck squat and “load up” as some of the power was lost and absorbed by the leaf springs.
That's interesting. I never noticed a difference in shifting with my Lightning after I installed trac bars, but they sure made the whole truck feel more solid, and they absolutely eliminated the wheel hop and put the power to the ground. Back in those days there were never any discussions on the forums linking trannys and trac bars. Its funny to hear about guys stating trac bars don't do much for axle wrap when that's the whole point. Maybe they bought crappy ones with crappy engineering. I can't imagine ever needing trac bars on my stock 6.0.
That's interesting. I never noticed a difference in shifting with my Lightning after I installed trac bars, but they sure made the whole truck feel more solid, and they absolutely eliminated the wheel hop and put the power to the ground. Back in those days there were never any discussions on the forums linking trannys and trac bars. Its funny to hear about guys stating trac bars don't do much for axle wrap when that's the whole point. Maybe they bought crappy ones with crappy engineering. I can't imagine ever needing trac bars on my stock 6.0.
I think you would be surprised how much improvement you would feel.
Engine enamel primer on the heads Red! Upskirt shot of o-rings Front cover cleaned with NuBrite AC coil cleaner. It works great on radiators to foam out bugs and crud from in between the little fins. It’s made for aluminum coils but don’t get it on polished aluminum like the top of a Mishimoto radiator...ask how I know. My little shop hand helping me clean and prep the shop. Have to keep those valve springs clean I had my local coatings shop bead blast and Cerakote my exhaust manifolds titanium. It’s good to over 2000 degrees and he did inside and out. It’s the same coating people get on their guns and rifles. It’s durable and looks great! The Flameproof VHT red I did before didn’t cure on the truck like the instructions said it would. Cerakote More cerakote Colt Stage 2 New tapered wrist pin bushings machined to wrist pins Pile of con rods ready to go! Rings Lifters Ooooo nice! Heavy duty clip
what machine work was done to your connecting rods? I have my machine shop working on my engine this week. I was curious what was entailed to re-condition the rods.
did the machine shop have a hard time with replacing the bushings? did they have to re-size the big ends?
