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SmackDaddy, one thing you could look at to check is the actual voltage from the ICP and IPR. That might help track down an electrical issue.
The ICP voltage should by about 0.25V KOEO.
I saw that you had ICP voltages displayed.
I have had this new style 15/16” ICP in for over two years.
I’m about to call Sean and get this IDS working. I need a better monitoring system than TorquePro for this.
I like Forscan for diagnosis. Five bucks and your in. I have IDS from Sean. It works good bit you have to use XP with it. You need to put a Virtual Machine in your lap top.
when things go wrong for me I like to go back to the basics. In this case it would be compression. While you are waiting for parts, why not look into the equipment you need for a compression test. That will eliminate cam timing as well as some other thing, Or you are concerned just about cam timing then put it on TDC, pull #1 valve cover, and split the overlap, that will verify that there are no gross timing errors. Another issue is intake obstructions. I think I saw that you don,t have the butterfly (or whatever it's called) ? but if there is one, eliminate or fix it.
All that said, still there is that 95% but that might come good with another scanner? (maybe).
But I would go back to compression and with it, it must fire on wd40 (or a gas soaked rag near the intake), I know that I gonna get flamed for saying that but that is a good tool sometimes. IMHO.
PS, be sure there is no issues in the intake track pull the boot off the turbo and try cranking with your spray of choice.
when things go wrong for me I like to go back to the basics. In this case it would be compression. While you are waiting for parts, why not look into the equipment you need for a compression test. That will eliminate cam timing as well as some other thing, Or you are concerned just about cam timing then put it on TDC, pull #1 valve cover, and split the overlap, that will verify that there are no gross timing errors. Another issue is intake obstructions. I think I saw that you don,t have the butterfly (or whatever it's called) ? but if there is one, eliminate or fix it.
All that said, still there is that 95% but that might come good with anonter scanner? (maybe).
But I would go back to compression and with it, it must fire on wd40 (or a gas soaked rag near the intake), I know that I gonna get flamed for saying that but that is a good tool sometimes. IMHO.
I know what you mean! I suggested the same thing, but took it back in a text message. I just couldn't believe I said it in the first place, lol. Quite a few Techs have said that it has its place. I just couldn't get that picture of such a beautiful engine out of my head though!
I made damn sure the cam and crank were lined up, it wouldn’t have FICM Sync if it was off would it?
I’m going to put it back to stock with my tuner and try to crank it once. Next move will be unplugging ICP. I’m not comfortable using ether or gas, I have way too much money and time in this truck to be doing that. If it won’t start with diesel and air I’m going to pull it back out, put it on the stand and find the issue. That’s last resort though! Keep the ideas coming, I appreciate it.
We discussed that last night, he's ordered a new ICP and changed the IPR with a known good one. What bothered me is it won't fire off on WD 40 which it should have. I wasn't there but the numbers on the IPR bothers me.
There have been a few posts in the recent past (other forums) about commanded IPR values in the high 90% range. Unfortunately the only possible explanation I have seen on it is that it might come with custom tuning. Not sure if that is accurate or not though.
I know about great pains taken, we all do. but a simple compression test will answer a lot, when you have compression and some fuel (NOT ETHER) it will fire no matter what else, it's still just a diesel. As far as FICM sync I don't know but why worry about FICM how. With an engine that has not run, Ii wouldn't be too concerned about the HPOP numbers right now. That system is not that out of whack. you got 700+ . Think of all the crazy things that might have happened. Rodent nest in inter cooler, rag sucked up, ect . eliminate the whole intake track by spraying or wet ragging into turbo directly. I you have never messed with wet rags ect. it is definitely a two man job, have somebody crank your motor while you yourself do the rag so you can pull it back in a hurry.
guilt admission. After installing a aftermarket turbo on a 6.9 Van , back in the 80's,OPS! too much ether, broke a piston. but I do still use it from time to time but more careful by a lot!
Does the engine not fire up at all or does it want to fire up briefly? If the engine does not fire up at all, an electronic problem is possible? Did you check all connectors at the FICM?
Can you do a selftest with TorquePro?
knotreel, there are no rats or rags in anything, I don’t know what kind of lackleg shop I have but that is funny.
I put the X4 back on it and put tuning back to stock and my IPR Duty cycle and ICP is 40-42 KOEO. I cranked 20 seconds and only builds 300-320psi and still 85% duty cycle.
I UNPLUGGED ICP and cranked and get ~1440psi and 44-45% duty cycle. I know the ICP is inferred but it should try to start if true ICP is available. I am beginning to think I might actually have a bad HPOP or HPO leak. It must be a bad one if it only builds 320psi with this high output Adrenaline HPOP. I’m just out of the 24 month warranty if it is truly bad. I guess next steps are air testing and wrenching.
Does the engine not fire up at all or does it want to fire up briefly? If the engine does not fire up at all, an electronic problem is possible? Did you check all connectors at the FICM?
Can you do a selftest with TorquePro?
It does not even act like it’s going to start. I triple checked all connections, all tight. I don’t think TorquePro has that feature. I’m about to pull out the Toughbook and see if I can get IDS to work. I gave up on it last year because it was like jumping through hoops to get it to run and never worked. I’m going to call Sean.
I know you did the pre-lube, but this is the only situation I know of where the oil cooler cavity was left dry. When I have changed the oil cooler and did fill the cavity with oil, it still was a bear.
Just shooting in the dark on possible issues.
Mark may know of other situations with a dry sump and if it was an issue.
I know you did the pre-lube, but this is the only situation I know of where the oil cooler cavity was left dry. When I have changed the oil cooler and did fill the cavity with oil, it still was a bear.
Just shooting in the dark on possible issues.
Mark may know of other situations with a dry sump and if it was an issue.
There is no way to fill the sump? I thought dumping a gallon into the oil filter housing gets oil to the sump?