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Mar 11, 2020 | 06:02 AM

#361

SmackDaddy

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From: Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yahiko

When you try to close out it will ask you what you want to do and you will have three options.
Save is the one that you want if you want to keep the data.

Did your VIN show up in the info when you started with the truck plugged in?

No sir I had to manually enter it but it did recognize the year model.

Mar 11, 2020 | 07:22 AM

#362

bismic

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SmackDaddy

I just started using IDS, is there a function to test the true IPR voltage when it reads 85%? 12v should close the valve correct? I am looking up how to test for voltage now.

There is no feedback wiring from the IPR valve, so the PCM never knows what the valve is actually doing. The IPR duty cycle is a command value only and the IPR is only an open/close valve. Since it is so fast acting, the duty cycle "approximates" a % open. There are only 2 wires to the IPR valve - (Rd) 12V switched power (key must be in the run position) and a switched ground from the PCM (Ye/Rd).

If you have a spare IPR connector, add some longer wires to it, plug it in to the IPR , and connect the wires to 12V power and ground, and crank. See if that makes a difference in the ICP value. If it doesn't then you know you have to air test (preferably w/ the valve covers off).

Mar 11, 2020 | 08:00 AM

#363

SmackDaddy

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From: Texas

I don’t have a spare IPR pigtail, I used to have my whole engine wire harness and FICM harness but SOMEONE tossed it while I was gone for a few days...I can try the local salvage, they have a bunch of parts.
For now I will perform an air test through the IPR port. I have the test hose setup I made a couple of years ago ready to go. I can swap it from the back underneath now that I have my handy stubby open end IPR wrench! I’m about to hook it up now and listen with valve covers on. I bet I can pinpoint a leak that big pretty easily with 150psi shop air. I’m hoping it’s not my HPOP but I honestly don’t think it would just crap out when it was just operating perfectly.

Mar 11, 2020 | 08:08 AM

#364

Hartwig

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Joined: Oct 2018

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From: unfortunately Germany

Quote:

Originally Posted by bismic

If you have a spare IPR connector, add some longer wires to it, plug it in to the IPR , and connect the wires to 12V power and ground, and crank. See if that makes a difference in the ICP value.

basically this is exactly the suggestion I made in post #339. I need to work on my english....

Mar 11, 2020 | 08:18 AM

#365

TooManyToys.

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Joined: Dec 2014

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From: Jersey Shore

Mac, You need the pigtail from a Ford dealer, 6E7Z12A690DA.

I used one to make up the Ford trigger that Hartwig showed previously, but you don't need to do that, you can bare wire the command.

Mar 11, 2020 | 09:59 AM

#366

SmackDaddy

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From: Texas

I found the leak. 145psi shop air held leakdown for 30 minutes then driver side valve cover started leaking. Thank God it’s not HPOP or passenger side! Sounds like a slow leak, possibly injector top or braided hose isn’t on good. About to find out!

Mar 11, 2020 | 10:01 AM

#367

SmackDaddy

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From: Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by TooManyToys.

Mac, You need the pigtail from a Ford dealer, 6E7Z12A690DA.

I used one to make up the Ford trigger that Hartwig showed previously, but you don't need to do that, you can bare wire the command.

I ordered one before the leak test but at least I will have it if I need it. White Bear was sending me another part anyway so he threw it in with that order. $8.79

Mar 11, 2020 | 10:06 AM

#368

TooManyToys.

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From: Jersey Shore

Considering they are used in two locations and can be problematic, for pack rats like me it's a good part to have on the shelf.

Glad you found the leak.