I have not read everything now because I have to translate most of the texts. What do you think of this idea:
I weld a connection into the oil pan from which I tap the engine oil. An oil pump like the one in Jack's link pushes the oil through a "non-return valve" into the test port, 5psi would be enough. I would switch the pump manually.
What's the matter with that?

 

The setup Jack post a link to stores pressure from the pump while it’s running and holds it while the truck is shut off. When you cycle the key it opens and pushes oil into the oil galleys before the truck cranks over.

 

Pump setup

With the second link Hartwig, that's how you can set it up. You install a one-way valve so when the pump is not running backflow is blocked. There are two ways of energizing the pump. One can be with a timed relay that will run for a set time, 10 seconds or whatever, triggered by key-on. Another way is how some aircraft are set, with key-on the circuit is energized, but a pressure switch turns the pump on any time below a set point, 10, 15, 20psi, whatever you like. It keeps you flying to get home if the oil pump fails.

The oil pan is a sandwiched construction from MSC with a composite in the middle for noise reduction, as are the valve covers, you won't be welding on it. You can install a bulkhead fitting, which is what I have saved in my McMaster order activity if I ever actually do this. But there is clearance to tap off the drain plug location, it's no deeper than the Futomo valve.

This guy would need the seals changed to oil tolerable in the 250-300ºF range.

 

Thanks Jack. Do you have a value how many amps a suitable pump needs? The disadvantage of this action is that the batteries are more stressed while starting the engine.
But I think most of the wear and tear on the engines is caused by the (cold) start



@SmackDaddy: you let me know if I enter your thread too much?

"The setup Jack post a link to stores pressure from the pump while it's running and holds it while the truck is shut off. When you cycle the key it opens and pushes oil into the oil galleys before the truck cranks over."

Basically a good idea, but I doubt the pressure will last long with the truck being shut down for the winter. I know the " pressure storage system" in flame start pre-heaters for large diesels. This stuff doesn't work most of the time because the dieselfuel is no longer under pressure and can't be sprayed against the flame glow plug. Therefore I am sceptical about such pressure storage.

 

A fraction of what the glow plugs pull. If those are the breakers, then 75% for the draw.

These are the pump options from the site I linked to. For the 12v options, 10 to 15 amps, pressure-dependent.

 

Hartwig you can post in my thread all you want. We are discussing these engines and there are no one sided comments yet. I know I told you I would get those seal install tool dimensions. I started on the rear seal tool but I got distracted by getting my engine in the truck.
Right now I’m struggling to get the high pressure oil system primed.

 

The work is not running away from me, I have enough of it myself, we will get it done ;-)

 

This ones have 7-8amp

https://www.isa-racing.com/fahrzeugt...che-oelpumpen/

 

Don't understand it. You mean the low pressure system?

 

Well I got home and set up my new Android tablet with TorquePro and attempted to start. Duty Cycle 93% almost immediately. Swapped my old known working IPR and same thing. I had to get some sleep so I left it until after work today. I will hook up my IPR air test tool and see where it’s leaking. It won’t build over 700psi. One time it tried to fire and duty cycle was 45-50% while cranking but it did not start. FICM is an Ultra from Ed and sounds good, I did not mess with injectors other than cleaning nozzles and new lower o-rings and coppers and nipple cups/o-rings are the same as when I removed the rails. I did replace both braided lines and stand pipes with new Motorcraft parts from Tousley/White Bear Lake Ford. HPOP got a new Motorcraft reseal kit. I had no issues before the rebuild so something is leaking. DieselSite Adrenaline High Output HPOP had no issues at all before. I guess an air test will pinpoint the leak(s). ICP is a new style Motorcraft that I bought about two years ago. I may get new batteries, these Optimas suck. I am getting about 180 rpm cranking but I am not happy with their performance since I bought the two new red tops to replace the old ones. I have my 2019 F-250 running with jumper cables to the passenger battery while cranking to keep voltage up. This is pretty disheartening when I was meticulous when assembly and rebuild...


These are cranking values every time after 8-10 seconds. Battery and FICM Logic voltage are 12.2-12.4 with key on before cranking and FICM is 48v.

 

With fuel and coolant lines at the back of the heads it was impossible to get the IPR socket on so I made a stubby wrench out of a 1 1/4” wrench by cutting the handle and grinding the size to fit the IPR nut...maybe I could sell these for coolant/fuel return guys.

 

Good morning from Kentucky! You have several hundred of us behind our keyboards cheering you on wishing we could be there to lend you a hand. You will get there. Just a 6.0 saying " not so fast". Good luck Smack!

 

Charge those batteries for about 4 houirs and crank it for about 20-30 seconds, waiting for 30 seconds in between cranks. It will fire. Sometimes they leak before they are started.

 

SmackDaddy: did you cranked with FICM relay removed? I guess there is air in the HPO system!

 

I may get fresh batteries after work and try again before air testing. The batteries have been charging all night and today while I’m at work. That’s what I was telling bismic...if I could just get her to run the leaks would probably seat themselves. I was meticulous when assembling and had no HPO issues before the rebuild.

Yes. I have base oil pressure and getting up to 700psi so she should start...almost had it once yesterday.