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I'm surprised no one had asked. It kind of jumps out at you.
Now I'm trying to figure out how making that thinner relieves the stress that causes cracks in a thin area.
To be honest Bob asked the machinist while I was on the phone with him and I just listened to what he said and picked up the high points. His explanation was much more in depth but I couldn’t remember everything he said and didn’t want to post any innacurate information. When I order mine I will get the explanation in email form and post it up here. I hope HTM101 doesn’t think we are hijacking his thread!
I’m learning with you guys and picking up what I can to add to my research before I do this work on my truck.
Excuse me for asking in case I missed this in a previous post...how are you guys prepping your deck for new heads? I know Razzi stoned his deck and TooManyToys post a video of a similar method. I am contemplating taking my block to a machine shop to have it resurfaced if my budget allows. If not I guess I’ll use the stoning method and hope it works!
To be honest Bob asked the machinist while I was on the phone with him and I just listened to what he said and picked up the high points. His explanation was much more in depth but I couldn’t remember everything he said and didn’t want to post any innacurate information. When I order mine I will get the explanation in email form and post it up here. I hope HTM101 doesn’t think we are hijacking his thread!
I’m learning with you guys and picking up what I can to add to my research before I do this work on my truck.
Excuse me for asking in case I missed this in a previous post...how are you guys prepping your deck for new heads? I know Razzi stoned his deck and TooManyToys post a video of a similar method. I am contemplating taking my block to a machine shop to have it resurfaced if my budget allows. If not I guess I’ll use the stoning method and hope it works!
Keep in mind if you cut the deck and heads you will have to compensate for the change.
I've hijacked this thread so much I'm surprised I haven't gotten a PM.......... we could take it elsewhere.
It also depends on piston protrusion. It's the issue I ran into with my blocks surface and I only had 0.0015" to play with before going nuclear and yanking it totally apart. If I did that, then the cost would have taken me to the point of having the wrecker pick it up and salvage the truck (I've come close and now too a coin toss). If the protrusion is too much, the pistons have to be reduced in height (turned or milled) and then you should have the entire assembly rebalanced. But it depends on how much you take off. I've got the notation somewhere on grams per 0.001". Felpro gaskets give you an extra 0.010" for this despite what is posted on the org. My measurement and direct from FelPro.
I did get the O-rings changed in the wavy rails, but nothing else done. On the 1-10 How Hard Is It To Do Scale, I give this a 1, if you have the HHC tool.
Empty socket.
New O-ring dropped in.
4 of the nipples. All 8 were identical, I saw nothing indicating I should replace them.
In the top of the injector there is a circlip, a tapered metal sleeve and an O-ring. I fiddled with removing the circlip for over an hour. At the beginning I decided that if I couldn't remove the circlip without going Neanderthal and leaving tool marks, I'd just leave it in place. That's what I opted to do.
This photo is the removal of the old O-ring. I used a very small flat blade and worked out the old O-ring. To install the new O-ring, I oiled the inside of the housing and the O-ring, pinched it and pushed it into the hole, past the land where it has to seat. I had to hold the tapered metal sleeve up against the circlip with one hand, and gently pull the new O-ring up into the land, a little at a time. It eventually popped into the land.
Here the injector tip and the spool valve are getting a heated degreaser bath in the sonic cleaner for 15 minutes. Then I dump the degreaser and go for another bath using acetone, without heat.
A fully O-ringed injector, with another set of new O-rings laid out to show what's included in this rebuild. Also, torqueing the spool valve nut to 5 inch pounds dialed in nicely.
Did you toss the spool valve in for a cleaning also?
To get that clip out the instructions I have here somewhere have you
remove the seal and then push the metal ring down and then you
take a long punch of a given size and whack it to deform the circlip
so that you can pull it out of the grove.
To remove my top o ring injector clips I used a small chisel that I sharpened the corners on and tapped the end of the clip while pushing a tiny flat screwdriver behind it to pop it out. Removing the o-ring helps so the seat can drop down and you won’t nick it with the chisel. I replaced my seats so that was not an issue. I hope your injector rebuild goes better than mine did. I bought 8 new spool valves and my injectors were too worn for the spool valves to seal off. They all failed the IPR air test and the truck ran terribly. That was an expensive lesson. I have a full set of new spool valves and solenoids left over and no one has even asked about them from my classified ad on here.
FWIW. The stretchy blue jeans that girls/women wear are pretty lint free and tough, not real; absorbent though, but you can get them cheap at Goodwill. That's where I go for the good rags.
There is no reason to remove the top circlip. Removing it only increases your chance of damage and deforming it. If you fold the o-ring slightly in half you can work it in.
There is no reason to remove the top circlip. Removing it only increases your chance of damage and deforming it. If you fold the o-ring slightly in half you can work it in.
Although a new circlip is included in each O-ring kit, I'm gonna continue to leave the original circlip in. And I agree, using certain tools in that tight area is an invitation to nicks or damage. This is a tight and potentially expensive area if an Oops! happens. I've already replaced 2 top O-rings as described, so its probably best for me to install the next 6 the same way.
I believe some of you may be interested in seeing a close-up of this. I didn't know quite what the combination was until I removed the first one. In the past I have read of concerns regarding the spool valve retaining nut; installing it too tight, too loose, use of Loctite, double-nutting, etc. This is a photo of one of mine. It's a combination of tapered washer, 4mm hex nut and a square 4-sided jam nut that's barely smaller than the hex nut. It's all one piece.
It seems to be a firm fastener. Since loosening and re-applying this fastener on my 8 injectors, I have no concern about one loosening by itself.
I finished the block decking yesterday. Started with a 2-sided stone but decided it wasn't flat enough and set it aside. I switched to sandpaper, 120 and 220 grit for the majority of the block work. Block and heads painting tomorrow, and then begin re-assembly.
8 cleaned and O-ringed injectors.
Plumbers Putty laid in, and rags packed in the holes before Super Scraping.
After using the Jack-recommended Super Scraper.
I measured at all angles with a 24" straight-edge and .0015 feeler gauge at this point. No go anywhere.
120 and 220 grit sandpaper isn’t too aggressive? I thought it was recommended to use much finer paper? Not second guessing, just asking because I’m doing the same soon.
