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I may end up doing it there, too. Somehow I've ended up with 2 4500s
I think Mark has it there with 1" tubing. Actually I think he has the bigger Racor, not that it alters the tubing situation.
I've had my coolant filter behind the front bumper and in front of the driver's tire for decades. I've thought about using that location too. Not sure if there will be enough room in the corner next to the master. Getting the batteries out of the underhood area just opens up so much room for other things.
I have one also It was a gift from one of the members and I can't recall who it was.
I hope they see this and say something. The issue I am having is the mounting place.
So if someone comes up with some good ideas I want to get to it.
Road tube! If I remember correctly the commercial VT365 at some weight level does that.
After I replaced my air filter, had CAC tubes powdercoated, replaced the turbo and went to a CFS aluminum intercooler there was no way I was going to continue blowing oil into the intake! I ran 1” heater hose right down to the frame and after 10k not a single drip. I contribute that to running the hose uphill under the degas bottle to keep oil from making it out the end. I think the turbo pulls oil out of the crank case and when it’s just vented to atmosphere there’s much less carry over. One thing that is for sure, you’ll never have to worry about blowing an oily boot off again, especially if you use a little hair spray on the boots. I took my intake and hot side CAC tube off the other day and it was completely dry after 10k. The CCV reroute is one of the best mods for the 6.0.
Smackdaddy,
I bought the Tesa tape and wrapped my 2 new harnesses and several other areas in the engine bay. That tape seems durable. Glad you recommended it to me.
Smackdaddy,
I bought the Tesa tape and wrapped my 2 new harnesses and several other areas in the engine bay. That tape seems durable. Glad you recommended it to me.
No problem, glad you like it! It’s some really good tape.
The installation went well on this. I was off to a good start because I dug up an older write-up by Bismic that described this same project. So...thank you Bismic!
The 1" i.d. hose slid right on the factory CCV nipples without any adapters, and there was still room to put the degas tank and rear of the air filter back in place!
Ah, I didn’t realize you were routing back to the intake, sorry for my previous posts. I forgot about this option. Looking good!
Months ago I read posts from several folks that opted for road venting. Some of them acknowledged an oily smell being a problem while idling/sitting still. I seem to remember some folks feeling there is an advantage to the engine creating a scavenging vacuum, thus the need to keeping the CCV system functional. I can't swear yay or nay to that, because I don't know. Anyhow, for those several reasons I kept the loop.
Just an fyi - the setup is a coalescing filter, not just a catch can. The intake stays completely clean. 110k miles on mine.
HTM101 - nice job. Glad my old post was helpful.
Yessir, I read your posts and many others pertaining to these modifications. Catch can is a generic term, sorry!
I work in the Eagleford Shale and take care of over 80 oil and gas wells and we have natural gas compressors of all sizes. Every one of them just vents the crank case to the atmosphere so I just followed suit. I catch a whiff of a light emissions odor when idling and the wind blows just right but nothing too crazy. The coalescing filter setup is the way to go but I couldn’t stomach paying that for the filter canister.
Just an fyi - the setup is a coalescing filter, not just a catch can. Big difference actually, the intake stays completely clean. 110k miles on mine.
HTM101 - nice job. Glad my old post was helpful.
Thanks, sir. I'm waiting on a JIC/NPT 90 degree adapter for the bottom of the can. When I mount that, I can add a brass ball valve for easier periodic draining. I believe you also use a valve.
LOL, it is pricey isn't it! I certainly can't say it is a necessary mod, but I am glad I have it (and I think it has "stood the test of time").
Originally Posted by HTM101
Thanks, sir. I'm waiting on a JIC/NPT 90 degree adapter for the bottom of the can. When I mount that, I can add a brass ball valve for easier periodic draining. I believe you also use a valve.
Today my friend and co-conspirator and I decided to start up the truck. My goodness it took a long time for the HPOP to build up. I watched the pressure creep up on Torque Pro. Once the numbers started registering, it was a slow climb. It hit 175 psi and then spiked up quickly and the engine lit off. Every cylinder fired immediately and it went to a smooth idle. It never sputtered or coughed. The satisfaction I'm feeling is fantastic. I still haven't driven it as I need to install the inner fender liners and front wheels, but we did run it long enough to get it to operating temperature.
This photo was taken at 3:54 pm this afternoon while the engine was running and about 2 minutes after it first fired up. I've never posted a video because I don't know how, so this is the best I can show of it!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
