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Mine has over 10k on it and looks new. I removed my plastic wire loom holder that goes over the turbo and just wrapped it with some insulating heat tape then the Tesa heat tape and it has been fine. I should probably buy a new plastic piece but it is kind of gaudy.
With all the work on updating parts under the hood there was no way I was going to run that chafed harness back through all my hard work. The connectors were falling apart and tape was deteriorated. I think my main engine harness was about $580 and the FICM harness was around $120. Small price to pay for peace of mind...
Unless your dumping money like crazy on things you didn't expect to.
Actually, I restored many old Mustang harnesses, it's something I enjoy doing. Those 6.0 harnesses were new in 2010, so still not that bad, just some fraying of tape. But wanted them to look better going back on.
With all the work on updating parts under the hood there was no way I was going to run that chafed harness back through all my hard work. The connectors were falling apart and tape was deteriorated. I think my main engine harness was about $580 and the FICM harness was around $120. Small price to pay for peace of mind...
Unless your dumping money like crazy on things you didn't expect to.
Actually, I restored many old Mustang harnesses, it's something I enjoy doing. Those 6.0 harnesses were new in 2010, so still not that bad, just some fraying of tape. But wanted them to look better going back on.
By the time I bought all the new connectiors I would have had to take out a loan. Just about every one of mine was broken and needed zip ties or tape to hold them on their mate. Not in this engine bay...
The engine bay was typically rusty, so I used some rotary brushes on the Dewalt drill and knocked off the crusty stuff. Next I painted over the rust with Rustoleum rust-inhibiting paint. It isn't great looking, but maybe it will help some.
This passenger side front fender brace was holding on with a prayer. I cut it off, fabricated a replacement, and am waiting for the paint to dry before attaching it..
The replacement oil pump from Auto Nation arrived yesterday, so now I can get back to finishing the front of the engine. New oil pump gears are in, cover is on. Placing the 1st part of the seal installer on the crank.
Now the new seal is loosely on the crank, with the installer shell pushing from behind.
Ready to push the seal in place.
Done.
Balancer is mounted next. I tossed out the TTY factory bolts and used ARP bolts torqued to 90 ft/lbs.
Today I stacked a lot of the top end pieces on the engine to see what it looks like with them. Tomorrow a lot of those pieces have to come off for the installation, unless I decide to move it into the family room as a conversation piece.
Why not eliminate the throttle body? I like the grey BTW.
When I removed the throttle plate in 2004, I thought it was effectively the same as removing the throttle body. Is there more to be gained by removing the actual body?
It just frees up clutter and gets rid of uselessness. Not necessary I guess.
I'll erase this in a bit so I don't clutter your thread but I'm a little partial to the grey.
This is my 6.9 I did 10 years ago or more.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
