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That was posted about a year ago. There’s another floating around somewhere showing the motor for the white one on a stand. I ran out of room for where to put the parts. The light parts on the fiberglass hood. This motor has taken sooooo long.
I wouldn’t worry about the lifters. The failure rate is not that high, it just catistrophic. And I’m more of a believer the issue is the cam more then the lifter after doing the literature search. I’m flipping lifters because of a new cam and the debris that went through the oil. The internals of these lifters are matched, do not interchange.
Roller lifters are kinda high on my list of consideration. I've been running them in my FE engine for years, solid rollers. A few thousand miles ago I removed the my Crower lifters and sent them to Crower to have them remove the needle bearings and replace them with bushings. Makes me feel more comfortable at 7,000 rpm.
Just watch your p-v clearance. Colt says drop in for a stage 2 but should check. Running the sweeps piston and valve lift for 0.030” clearance, it’s damn close. If having heads done, I’d spec 0.030” valve recession, then go from there along with the thicker FelPro gaskets. It’s not making it with Motorcraft gaskets.
What are you using as the cleaning solvent? We used stoddard solvent when doing the aircraft ones.
Also we tool an old push rod and submersed them in solvent and use the rod in the drill press
to pump them up and then check to see how they held the pressure.
What are you using as the cleaning solvent? We used stoddard solvent when doing the aircraft ones.
Also we tool an old push rod and submersed them in solvent and use the rod in the drill press
to pump them up and then check to see how they held the pressure.
I didn't get that intense with the cleaning. After I took them apart and dumped the oil, I reassembled them. Then I brushed some mineral spirits on the exterior and then blew that off with compressed air. Then re-oiled the roller axle, the entire shell's exterior and the top recessed area and dropped them in the bore.
New O-ring for branch tube connection on top of HPOP.
New O-ring for this portion of the branch tubes. It inserts into the bottom side of the HPOP COVER, that bolts to the top of the block.
Sliding the branch tubes into the rear of the block.
Some of us have installed new high pressure standpipes, and had no idea where or what they connect with deep down. It engages with the large round hole at the end of the branch tube.
New pushrods getting a mineral spirits cleaning, washed in hot water, 80 psi air dry-off, then bagged with WD40 until installation tomorrow or Saturday.
Upper and lower oil pans. I used new bolts, antiseize and stainless washers for the lower pan. During teardown a few weeks ago, some of the original pan bolts were severely rusted/galled in place. There were 3 of the 22 that were extremely hard to remove.
