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Here's one I just pulled (a couple of weeks ago) from an over 200K Powerstroke engine that is being retrofitted to fit in a Ford Medium Duty Truck.............while dirty, rusty from sitting outside it has no mechanical marks (like yours).............I'm putting a new Ford part in so this is just on the waste / recycler pile.............I'd say (given the 10s of 6.0L engines we've worked on) that yours is in the "bad" category -- 85%-95% of the teardowns don't show any damage, a few the same level of damage as yours, a few far worse..........
I mentioned this tool earlier when smoothing out the anaerobic gasket material. It also works well to uniformly set this type rubber gasket into the channel.
Rear cover in place and torqued down.
Next item is installing the rear main seal. Read the Ford manual description, watched the DieselTechRon video, and then mounted this used installation tool I snagged off Ebay.
Done, and it was a very smooth install.
Tapped on the flexplate adapter.
Then the flexplate.
Then went to the front end, did a final cleaning on the mounting surface, and test fit the front gasket.
There are 2 dowels in the block for this gasket's alignment; 1 in the 1 o'clock position above the crank, and 1 in the 7 o'clock position below the crank. Notice the offset of the hole in the gasket for the 7 o'clock dowel. I believe this is a $50.00 gasket. All the seals positions, and bolt hole positions, were in their proper location. The punched hole for that lower dowel was improperly located. After using the Dremel and small stone, all was good.
I've uploaded the raw video where I have done a visual inspection of the LPOP. There was some soft non-magnetic bearing shell run though, and god knows what for the debris. My take is this occurred within the very first minutes of virgin startup of the motor. Then the 70k miles before I tore it down.
What I've said to you in an email:
>>>>
I remember you saying you checked a few bearings, so I'm guessing they were OK. I don't care for the debris you found, but your oil pump doesn't tell of much going through it. In my truck trying to get another 50k out of the chassis, I'd run it. You're at different mileage and aspirations. If you google oil pump gear failures you will find some gears that have been hammered on the surfaces from needle bearings. And some inner gears that have shattered from the same. With your low mileage truck and the plans of a long life ahead, since it's not known the shock load stresses the gear may have taken with so much you have put into the truck at this point I buy a new gear set rather than take the chance of the inner gear fracturing at some point. It's very hard to see stress cracks and sometimes magging them doesn't show problems that occur later on.
>>>>>
I've uploaded the raw video where I have done a visual inspection of the LPOP. There was some soft non-magnetic bearing shell run though, and god knows what for the debris. My take is this occurred within the very first minutes of virgin startup of the motor. Then the 70k miles before I tore it down.
What I've said to you in an email:
>>>>
I remember you saying you checked a few bearings, so I'm guessing they were OK. I don't care for the debris you found, but your oil pump doesn't tell of much going through it. In my truck trying to get another 50k out of the chassis, I'd run it. You're at different mileage and aspirations. If you google oil pump gear failures you will find some gears that have been hammered on the surfaces from needle bearings. And some inner gears that have shattered from the same. With your low mileage truck and the plans of a long life ahead, since it's not known the shock load stresses the gear may have taken with so much you have put into the truck at this point I buy a new gear set rather than take the chance of the inner gear fracturing at some point. It's very hard to see stress cracks and sometimes magging them doesn't show problems that occur later on.
>>>>>
Yep, wallpaper seamer. Got a few of those, wood and plastic. My mother taught me how to hang wallpaper and I've done it more then I care to ever do again. The other tool that sometimes comes in handy is a Formica roller. It's all part of the Too Many ....
I bought these new in 2004, same time I purchased the truck. That's 4" thickness of reference pages. I've used them some over the years. Since I've gotten into this recent engine project, the one book has been so valuable. There's more than 200 pages devoted to the engine.
The other thing that I've used even more is the International Service Manual which I've posted here before but can't find. Others may have posted it too. Never thought you might need it, sorry.
All the necessary sections are printed out and I keep them in a binder on the workbench. It's the bible and I can check off items or write in the margin any notes this way. Somewhere in this thread, I think it's in an image. (Edit, post 163 when I was installing the bearings but showing the lint-free towels I use.)
One other book you may want to look for is the PC/ED manual for your year.
You can find it in the Ford workshop DVDs also.
The PC/ED manual is a back book about 1 1"2 thick and had a lot of the testing steps.
It's limited to the Engine and Emissions. It's can be very handy. I found mine on Ebay
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
