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When I Reply to this thread I insert 2 to 5 photos in the response. As I build the Reply all my photos appear to be there. Then when I check for the Preview, just 1 photo shows up and all my text and the other photos have disappeared. Are my photos too large?
I got to thinking about that type of mark like you have on #5.
It could also be when someone installs the injector and too much oil is used. That oil has no place to go. So when it gets hot it will cook. There can also be a little
damage to the O-ring that is letting some fuel past tnd that is cooking down in the bore. NOTE : Be sure to scrub that bore out well. The one way to be sure would
be to have that injector tested on a test stand to see what shape it''s in.
When I Reply to this thread I insert 2 to 5 photos in the response. As I build the Reply all my photos appear to be there. Then when I check for the Preview, just 1 photo shows up and all my text and the other photos have disappeared. Are my photos too large?
David
If they are too large in the past the upload will fail. BUT the Boys and Girls have been fixing things that are not broke yet again.
You should see all the photos when you do preview post. One way to see if they are going to load is click on the "Source" tab
and you will see something that will look like this.
Here I changed the font type and made the text italic. One other eway to look at what I have done is again use the "Source" tab after using "quote" I broke the link so I could show you the format. You should see one line like that for each image you want to show. The way you break the tags is by putting spaces into it. [ tag ] and [ /tag ] The /command needs to be used or the system will kick it out or do other strange things, The command is a HTML formatting command. By hand editing you can do things that are not supported in the quick section items in the menu bar. [ /font ][ /I ]
I think there was some looseness to the injector. The coloration at the bottom I think maybe carbon from some combustion leakage, and what leads me to those thoughts is the wear of the o-ring at the bottom of the fuel cavity. It doesn't show the same level of white coating of its neighbors next door, as though there was some vertical movement to the ring, even if only by microns. If there wasn't that coloration difference, I could be fine with the excess fuel or oil down there.
Again, you have to understand my career was to come up with ALL the reasons for a failure, then debunk each one at a time.
At this point, I was like the guy who opens up a panel to see a countdown timer at 5 seconds. You're just ****ed.
Tomorrow if I remember, I'll get a photo of the left side of the block so you can evaluate it.
My intent with this partial rebuild is to eliminate any repeat of what you've pointed out. By the time I've stoned the deck of the block and laid down the rebuilt heads with O-rings, I expect to end up with 8 combustion chambers that are fully sealed.
Friday morning as I walked through the UCF Machine Shop and we got to the head machining area, I asked Scott for a description of the O-ringing. He said the depth of cut is 0.030". The O-ring material is round 0.041" stainless wire that is pressed into the groove.
It seems the O-ringing is pretty standard I found. The one thing I noticed and KDD mentions is placement of the joint of the ring. They place all of them at the 10 o'clock position and are tight barely noticeable. When torqued down and compress they will close even tighter.
I almost went with UFC since I'm in NJ but I wanted new for quickest turn around so after two days of research & Jack bringing them to my attention, I went with Kill Devil Diesel heads. So far I'm happy.
That the best close up of their o-rings I've seen. It looks like good placement to the valves and compression ring area.
I'll stilling planning on doing the experiment of using these 20mm heads and a fine surface finish. Actually right now I'm putting in my fittings to relieve that air bubble in the back (my interpretation).
I've run solid roller lifters in my FE gas engine for years. Each pair of lifters is connected with a metal link bar. So today I removed the first lifter from the 6.0 and was kinda expecting a hydraulic flat tappet, because this is my first foray into a diesel's internals and things are a bit new to me. Well, the lifter was a hydraulic roller. After I plucked it out, I questioned what holds the lifter in the proper orientation for rolling on the cam lobe. Dang, it's the plastic guide!
I'm surprised at the amount of plastic used in engines these days.
I've run solid roller lifters in my FE gas engine for years. Each pair of lifters is connected with a metal link bar. So today I removed the first lifter from the 6.0 and was kinda expecting a hydraulic flat tappet, because this is my first foray into a diesel's internals and things are a bit new to me. Well, the lifter was a hydraulic roller. After I plucked it out, I questioned what holds the lifter in the proper orientation for rolling on the cam lobe. Dang, it's the plastic guide!
I'm surprised at the amount of plastic used in engines these days.
If you these have alot of plastic take a look under the cover of any newer gasser. More plastic then the women of Hollywood. Actually even back in the same era as the 6.0, Ford gassers had plastic intakes and plastic thermostat housings and such.
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