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Removing the Engine

 
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Old 12-14-2018, 10:34 AM
HTM101
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Removing the Engine

While looking at jh818's several photos of the engine removed from the truck, it got me thinking maybe I should do that for work I'm doing to my engine next month. I've pulled and re-installed my gasoline big block FE a number of times, and yanked out a few small blocks, but never tackled a 1,000 lb. diesel removal.

I'm installing replacement heads, rebuilding the injectors, new push rods, new oil cooler, maybe a new oil pan, new radiator, new cam and crank position sensors, replacing o-rings and screen on the ipr and some other items.

Thinking back to the several times I've gotten down to removing valve covers, removing the wavy rails and such, its a PITA laying on and/or reaching down in the engine bay. Some of you have pulled your engine so I'd like you thoughts on pulling the engine, or not.

I decided to start this work in about 4 weeks. Truck downtime isn't an issue.

David
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 12:11 PM
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It's really not that hard. I'm a person who really, really doesn't like to have an open motor outside. I've done it when I have to, but I don't care for it. In my garage anytime I'm not doing something with the block or heads I have it covered in plastic.

If your going o work in they, pull the radiator, fan, shroud, and anything else so you can hop over the radiator support and stand on the steering cross arm, it's so much easier and really takes less then an hour to get to that point.
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 10:22 PM
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Old 12-14-2018, 10:23 PM
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Take lots of pictures before you start and as you go!!!
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 10:33 PM
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I pull everything off the front including the rad support. It's a bitch to get out, so when you put it back in, do some trimming with a zip wheel. I pull the sway bar too, gives you room to stand right in there. Bumper is optional, but it's only 8 bolts to take off if you don't want to step over it 10,000 times. Make an engine lift plate that bolts on where the turbo pedestal goes - try and keep everything low profile on the plate, it is tight on the cowl trying to get the oil pan to clear. Remove oil filter housing and standpipe and intake elbow for chain clearance - intake can stay on. Take the up-pipe off too -anything helps. It's a bitch to get the converter nuts off, I cut and welded two sockets together to get it to fit. Starter is a pig, the hidden bolt on top has a 13mm head, you might be best to leave it till the last and go in from the front of the engine! Pull the AC compressor and tie strap it out of the way.
The cooling lines really get in the way, if i remember correctly, leave the motor mounts off when you're reinstalling and put them on after?!
I'm very old and fat so I don't like a bunch of grief, this is what I've learned.
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BstangBill View Post
Take lots of pictures before you start and as you go!!!
THIS! Take a stupid amount of pics from every angle, you can delete them later, and you will cuss at yourself if you don't take at least 30!
And remember, there's 6 converter nuts.
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 11:28 PM
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Well if we're going to post pictures .....





 
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Old 12-15-2018, 04:21 AM
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Make yourself a tool to hold the converter in place. You don't want that puppy moving out of place.
The factory rebuilt trans I got has one that went all the way across the converter and had a dimple
where the center hub of the converter rested. Then a bolt on each side of the case to hold it in place.
It also has holes drilled for the flex plate studs to go through.
 
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Old 12-15-2018, 08:17 AM
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Guys,
Those are great photos and comments. I'm definitely pulling the engine after seeing these. Anyone else with comments and suggestions...I'll be printing all comments for use during my project

John Irwin, I got that top starter bolt figured out, I can find it while laying on my back. I use a ratchet, a long extension, and socket. When its time to re-insert that bolt, I lay a small piece of my nitrile glove, size of a quarter, over the end face of the socket and then push the head of the bolt into the socket. It keeps the bolt from falling out of the socket while you're fishing the bolt, socket and extension along the top of the starter and trying to locate the hole.

Yahiko, the torque converter can move too easily if you don't put something in place to secure it? Is this during engine removal, or immediately after?

Thanks,
David
 
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Old 12-15-2018, 08:36 AM
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This little trick works real good on the starter top bolt too.





And as mentioned, pictures or video of everything in stages..... the layout of the harness are real good ones.
 
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Old 12-15-2018, 08:58 AM
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I agree photos are a must. Last month I had removed a lot of top of engine pieces including moving all the harnesses around. I failed to take photos of the harnesses in proper place before removal, and ended up with a small nuisance while trying to lay them back in. Lesson learned.

David
 
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Old 12-15-2018, 12:22 PM
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I've used the Original Rotunda tool (outrageously expensive, not worth the money - mine sits back in the tool crib, hasn't been used in years) and have found this (I think we have three of these laying around) every bit as useful if not lifting the cab.................................(I believe the wife got these on amazon or ebay for a couple of hundred bucks or so each).............I would not recommend using chains on the factory installed locations at the driver side front / passenger side rear as you likely won't have enough clearance to get the oil pan over the cross member....................this little tool gives you plenty of latitude on movement.............don't forget to place a trans jack or stand under the tranny BEFORE you pull those 9 bell housing bolts, 4 motor mount nuts, and 6 torque converter nuts and start the process.....TIP--- use a 36" 1/2 drive extension from the front of the engine to pull those torque converter nuts........................using a "tiny" impact gun or ratchet --- any manufacturer, I like the AirCat air ratchets == they deliver some serious ft lbs..........

 
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Old 12-15-2018, 01:19 PM
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That lift plate is crazy expensive for what it is, $200+. If you're a shop and can expense it off that one thing, but for the DIYer .......

Many guys have used the lift eyes or made their own lift bracket. Pulling mine I laid out 8020 aluminum in a cribbing pattern with a lifting eye and got it out, maybe $20.




To go back in I made a prototype plate.





Both methods use the pedestal bolts. You can even use the forward two threaded holes with lifting eyes. Just one 8mm lifting eye has the approximate capacity of 1,000 lbs each as long as its not side loaded.





The long extension for the converter bolts was how I did it too, but also using my iPad and borescope so I could check the rotation of the motor working by myself.



 
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:44 PM
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by HTM101 View Post
Yahiko, the torque converter can move too easily if you don't put something in place to secure it? Is this during engine removal, or immediately after?

Thanks,
David
Both. You don't want that heavy beast moving, It is very hard to get back in correctly in the horizontal position.
 

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