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Would you please post a picture or two of the block after you stone it?
Yes the O-rings appear to be seamed at the 8 o'clock position, and I don't know why. In actuality the seam is a mitered cut and the wire ends overlay each other a smidge.
Yes, I'll take photos of the block deck before, during and after stoning.
After today's work I'm very close to beginning the stoning. A friend helped me prep the lower crank case (bedplate). We cleaned both surfaces, applied the Permatex anaerobic gasket maker, laid in the 2 new rubber seals, put a dab of gray RTV at all 4 corners, and laid the bedplate back on. I torqued those 20 bolts 4 times. The last 2 times at 170 ft. lbs. gave my new torque wrench and me a good work out.
What you don't see in this "staged" photo is how we actually maintained engine position during the heavy torque pulls. The engine is blocked and perfectly level on both planes. Torqueing on the horizontal plane wanted to twist the engine stand. So my friend who stands 6'2" tall and weighs 240 pounds, made sure the 5' long 2"x4", wedged between the side of the engine and my garage wall, stayed in place. The 2x4 did the trick.
Thanks! I just paid a local shop 5500. for the work you are doing. He offered to o ring the heads for an additional $300. But I figured we will try it with plain old studs first!
I got my terminology mixed up! It has been 30 years since I played with o rings and fire rings on engines.
You guys are making me re-think about o-rings for my heads ....... It didn't take me long to think about it. I always told myself if the heads are off I'm getting it done. Instead as you know I went new from KDD.
Dave, did they explain why the groove between the valve to glow plug hole? I've not seen that before. I think they may do that maybe to relieve the edge of cracks. I'd like to know what reason they give. Actually see the pic below and you'll see cracks.
Anything details about the surface finish they develop? I cant see how it would matter much. The O-rings are doing all the biting.
Last edited by 87crewdually; Jan 30, 2019 at 07:16 PM.
Reason: Added pic
You're further along then I realized, but I take months. I'd recommend going in and cleaning off any excess aerobic on the inside as it won't Harden and you'll have residual RVT in you oil samples for a long time. You can do that before the plate goes on, then after the plate goes on, and you just have to be careful with using the aerobic with the oil pan.
You're further along then I realized, but I take months. I'd recommend going in and cleaning off any excess aerobic on the inside as it won't Harden and you'll have residual RVT in you oil samples for a long time. You can do that before the plate goes on, then after the plate goes on, and you just have to be careful with using the aerobic with the oil pan.
I'll check as you suggested. Regarding the anaerobic, I laid out 2 very small beads, 1 on each side of the seal channel. I then used a wallpaper seam roller and twice rolled the anaerobic with firm hand pressure. Any residual along the outside edge, I wiped off. Any that tried to flow over the edge into the channel, I lifted out with a Q-tip, so the channel was dry. I was able to lay the seal in the channel and not even contaminate it with the anaerobic.
The RTV application was a tiny dab that I mashed nearly flat with my finger and wiped away any excess, before laying the bedplate on it.
That enlargement concerned me because I was shown the magnaflux station at UCF, and subsequently didn't expect to see what is evident in this photo. I pulled up my original photo and enlarged it, there it was. I enlarged it to the max, and still there. I decided to find out how many more cracks in those areas may exist.
A few minutes ago I inspected the heads, wiped them off, even Q-tipped those milled areas between the glow plug hole and intake valve. I couldn't find a crack. I wiped the areas again, and darn...saw what appeared to be a crack. I wiped it with the end of my small finger and there was no crack. It must have been a paper or cotton fiber. Still not satisfied, I went to my wife's quilting room and grabbed a magnifying glass, and headed back into the basement with it and a low intensity LED flashlight. This time I wiped each milled area with a microfiber towel and re-inspected. None of the 8 milled areas displays any evidence of a crack. My OCD is back in check.
Gonna be changing out nipple cup O-rings in the wavy rails today, and then get into some glow plugs, in the basement. It was 6 degrees outside this morning and it'll take too much kerosene and propane to get the garage heated. Warmer weather is coming Saturday.
HTM101 you should check out HHC nipple cups, I installed mine about 8000 miles ago when I replaced stock injectors with high dollar ones. I know you are trying to stick to a budget but I figured I’d give you that link. https://www.hhcdiesel.com/
HTM101 you should check out HHC nipple cups, I installed mine about 8000 miles ago when I replaced stock injectors with high dollar ones. I know you are trying to stick to a budget but I figured I’d give you that link. https://www.hhcdiesel.com/
I'm inspecting mine right after I close out this FTE visit. I'll let know.
I didn't mean to alarm you. It wouldn't be a huge concern and cracks are common.
Have you asked them why the chamfered glowplug hole?
No apology necessary, that was a good eye and find on your part and I appreciated your input. Gotta admit though, cotton fiber trumps crack in this case!
I just got off the phone with Bob from UCF and just speaking with him swayed my judgement on who’s heads I will be installing. I asked about the groove between the valve seat and glow plug hole. He said in three years no one has asked why but he said it is there to eliminate future cracking because that area is the most prone to cracking due to how thin the material is between the valve seat and glow plug hole.
Needless to say I will be ordering my heads from these guys within a month. They have no problem painting the heads red to match my current accent colors. They also enlightened me on the core charge policy. If one of my heads is good and the other is not they will still credit me half of the core charge where other shops have an “all or nothing” policy.
