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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Removing the Engine

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Old Mar 10, 2019 | 08:18 PM
  #346  
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Yahiko
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Yep,
I have one in both trucks.
Starting a dry HPOP does take a lot of time.
I also put a new set of bearings in the starter
that is in the project truck because it was dragging.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2019 | 08:24 PM
  #347  
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I know I'm too late but anyone that removes the rails or does an oil cooler I always recommend when you refill the motor oil, dump 2 gallons through the filter housing. It will usually start 2nd crank.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2019 | 09:04 PM
  #348  
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Originally Posted by 87crewdually
I know I'm too late but anyone that removes the rails or does an oil cooler I always recommend when you refill the motor oil, dump 2 gallons through the filter housing. It will usually start 2nd crank.
I do this on every oil change just to help the LPOP out. Great advice. Those wavy rails have more volume than the 2003-2004.5 log rails too.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 07:36 AM
  #349  
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Originally Posted by 87crewdually
I know I'm too late but anyone that removes the rails or does an oil cooler I always recommend when you refill the motor oil, dump 2 gallons through the filter housing. It will usually start 2nd crank.
OMG, that's great information. Wish I had known about it before my project.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 09:55 AM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by HTM101
OMG, that's great information. Wish I had known about it before my project.
I apologize. I've posted it before in other threads and I just assume that everyone here has seen them. Or sometimes I assume info is common knowledge which many times it's not. I guess it is worth repeating.
Great Job on the build by the way, if I didn't say it already.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 10:09 AM
  #351  
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Originally Posted by 87crewdually
I apologize. I've posted it before in other threads and I just assume that everyone here has seen them. Or sometimes I assume info is common knowledge which many times it's not. I guess it is worth repeating.
Great Job on the build by the way, if I didn't say it already.
87,
You certainly don't owe me an apology, but thanks for your concern. That tidbit is worth a lot to some folks. I first changed an oil cooler in 2013 and went through the excessive cranking thing. Before that job and between then and now, I somehow missed the information that pouring oil in the filter housing can save bunches of crank time. Certainly others can benefit by reading about it here.



 
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 01:07 PM
  #352  
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I was sort of stuck where I was at. The injectors and out and oil rails had been off for 18 mo. The truck had just sat with out being started all that time. i did not feel like putting fresh oil in
it at that time so I sort of had to suffer. I did see when doing the priming that the starter was not turning at the speed it should of. That is part of the reason it got new bearings and the
solenoid replaced. Old bearings verses new, You could feel the difference just turning by hand. The brushes looked healthy with enough length left for many more starts. Because it was
a 6.4L starter I found it worth the time and $25.00 (not sure if it was even that much) to put the new bearings and some fresh grease on the bendix drive shaft. So after all was dome and
the new starter battery interconnect cable was in and both batteries charged it was still a little stubborn but did start. Now I can go out on a cold day and it starts right up even with the bad
glow plug module that the #2 plug is not heating correctly. It's not heating. Module reports as open. When the module is swapped it's fine.

I know if I was starting a fresh dry engine or one I had done the oil cooler and head gaskets I would be pre-filling it.

I think if I got into rebuilding 6.0Ls as a job I would make a tool to take advantage of the two ports you can get at on both oil rails and do a pressure pre-filling that way along with a pre-filling
of the oil reservoir and cooler. With the 6.0L there are three points where you could pressure fill it. Two being on the oil rails and the third being the front test port. All three are sort of small
and would take some time to put in almost 18 quarts with a dry engine. This is one engine where a good assembly lube is something you really want to help to keep the dry start down to the
least amount of time posable. One way to get the oil system filled would be to not put the glow plugs in and crank that way until you have a reading at the oil pressure switch. That way you
know that you have the oil galleries filled.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 01:14 PM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
........
I think if I got into rebuilding 6.0Ls as a job I would make a tool to take advantage of the two ports you can get at on both oil rails and do a pressure pre-filling that way along with a pre-filling
of the oil reservoir and cooler. With the 6.0L there are three points where you could pressure fill it. Two being on the oil rails and the third being the front test port. All three are sort of small
and would take some time to put in almost 18 quarts with a dry engine. This is one engine where a good assembly lube is something you really want to help to keep the dry start down to the
least amount of time posable. One way to get the oil system filled would be to not put the glow plugs in and crank that way until you have a reading at the oil pressure switch. That way you
know that you have the oil galleries filled.

That's exactly in my plans. I bought new plugs already. With nose up, I am also going to prefill the fuel logs in the heads, rotate down and fill the feedlines. I don't want the injectors to fire off dry without fuel.

Pete's trick too, as he posted that prior.

I'm also planning on cranking the motor over on the stand with the glow plugs out, and have made a switch box with a connector so I can 30 sec engage the IPR while stand cranking. I already had a teaser thread title, "Crank, no start".
 
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 12:06 PM
  #354  
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Degas & Radiator Hose Pressure Test

I drove the truck yesterday afternoon and ran it fairly aggressively. Today, while stone cold, I raised the hood and was easily able to pinch the top radiator hose together with 2 fingers. I then opened the degas cap, no hiss.

For years and up until I removed the engine recently I could park the truck and let it sit for days, and while the engine was cold the top radiator hose was always very firm with pressure. And when I removed the degas cap, it always hissed loudly.

Today was another feel good moment. I don't believe there's anything else I can add to this thread!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 12:11 PM
  #355  
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That has to be an awesome feeling! I can’t wait for that to be me. You did an excellent job on the rebuild thread, I commend you and will definitely be refering to thiis thread while I am working on mine. Thank you sir!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 12:45 PM
  #356  
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Originally Posted by SmackDaddy
That has to be an awesome feeling! I can’t wait for that to be me. You did an excellent job on the rebuild thread, I commend you and will definitely be refering to thiis thread while I am working on mine. Thank you sir!
Awesome! This site and its members are a sharing bunch which certainly helps us get through this engine's characteristic weaknesses and weirdness.
 
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