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The little metal cone I spoke of, (using my other identity) it is just a tapered sleeve I put on one of the torque converter studs to help guide it through the flexplate hole. I basically am working alone.
Thanks to those of you for your responses regarding stoning my block. Jack...you're a technical wizard. I was straining to grasp all the info you posted!
Anyway...my garage party starts next week and I'll begin posting the engine removal photos as I go. Since deciding to pull the engine I'm looking forward to the project even more. Working on the engine while its hanging from a stand, instead of laying on the engine and reaching down to do everything will be a positive for me.
Not a wizard, I realized long ago I don't know everything so I just try to learn all the time, and I'm good at implementing things I see in a different manner.
Good luck with your engine pull. I took my 6.0 all the way down to the short block a few years ago with it in the truck to do the same work you are. I used a topside creeper. I think it was less work than trying to pull the engine.
Good luck with your engine pull. I took my 6.0 all the way down to the short block a few years ago with it in the truck to the same work you are. I used a topside creeper. I think it was less work than trying to pull the engine.
For head gaskets, probably. However, pulling off the grille, bumper and a bunch of radiators wasn't hard. It's kinda nice being able to stand on the floor, in the engine bay and lean against the front pulleys and be able to access a LOT of stuff by just reaching. I've done the laying on the engine thing before. While I was loosening all the intake manifold bolts and then lifting it out, goodness that was so much nicer.
Anyway, once I decided to pull the engine I've planned for additional work if necessary; front and rear crank seals, and removal of the lower crankcase for resealing.
I'll paint the block and valve covers a light gray, to make general inspections a little easier when the engine is back in the truck.
I have no schedule to meet and since winter is here this gives me something to do for a while. When working on the truck and engine project I keep the garage at about 65 degrees, and the Pandora music is peaceful.
For head gaskets, probably. However, pulling off the grille, bumper and a bunch of radiators wasn't hard. It's kinda nice being able to stand on the floor, in the engine bay and lean against the front pulleys and be able to access a LOT of stuff by just reaching. I've done the laying on the engine thing before. While I was loosening all the intake manifold bolts and then lifting it out, goodness that was so much nicer.
Anyway, once I decided to pull the engine I've planned for additional work if necessary; front and rear crank seals, and removal of the lower crankcase for resealing.
I'll paint the block and valve covers a light gray, to make general inspections a little easier when the engine is back in the truck.
I have no schedule to meet and since winter is here this gives me something to do for a while. When working on the truck and engine project I keep the garage at about 65 degrees, and the Pandora music is peaceful.
Having the time is a very good thing. I enjoy working on my truck in my shop in the winter. It's either Joe Rogan podcast, or whatever flavor of music for the day. Looking forward to more with this thread!
Pay close attention to the drivers side head, particularly how the fuel line runs between it and the front cover. That line has to be in place when the head is installed. The lifting bracket on the head and front cover are too close so make sure the lines are in place when you set the head.
I also use Felpro.
Pay close attention to the drivers side head, particularly how the fuel line runs between it and the front cover. That line has to be in place when the head is installed. The lifting bracket on the head and front cover are too close so make sure the lines are in place when you set the head.
I also use Felpro.
Thanks! Will do.
Per4mance and 87crewdually..... I'm having my heads rebuilt and they'll be O-ringed. Would you share why you prefer Fel-Pros?
Per4mance and 87crewdually..... I'm having my heads rebuilt and they'll be O-ringed. Would you share why you prefer Fel-Pros?
. I too installed O-ringed heads on mine. The Felpro quality, research, and tried performance is enough for me to recommend plus the economical sense compared to the Motorcrafts. There's engine builders out there that have been using these Felpros for years now with zero failures to my knowledge. For example Super Duty Service uses them exclusively. Check his YouTube channel.
Like everything in life, it's in the prep work. Clean surfaces, clean environment, proper torque procedure, and ARP's to start. Clean the threads of the block, blow out all the holes, and don't over do it with the ARP torque lube. You don't want to contaminate the surfaces or gob it on the threads. Light even coat, and don't tighten the studs in the block just hand snug.
I hope you don't mind pics but heres the bulk of what I used. The heads are new from Kill Devil Diesel. The items I got through Amazon. Just make sure you know what size dowel hole are in your heads, 18 or 20mm. The gaskets are different.
12-18-2018, 08:22 AM
