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Any Idea what they are called? I found a diagram of the bed that shows the part but does not list the part. So I must be on the wrong page.
Thanks -
FORD PICKUP TAIL LIGHT CORNERS
But some sites only have half lower & then upper.
I think if , I had to do it. I'd use a die grinder cut off wheel remove from one bed & weld it into the better bed. Go to a junk yard with a saws all and remove the whole end Corner end light cap areas and weld it into yours.
FORD PICKUP TAIL LIGHT CORNERS
But some sites only have half lower & then upper.
I think if , I had to do it. I'd use a die grinder cut off wheel remove from one bed & weld it into the better bed. Go to a junk yard with a saws all and remove the whole end Corner end light cap areas and weld it into yours.
Orich
Thanks orich!
There are things like that which I should be thinking about off the top of my head but maybe because it's so important to me to get it right to honor him... Or the fact I'm up late jamming a week of work in 3 days so I can go work on the truck... But this site and the people here are a big help. So thanks!!!
Sorry late back to the party. The part numbers on those corners are:
DOTZ99280A58A....R/S.
DOTZ99280A59A....L/S.
These are the ones for "with" the lights. They are listed as including the covers Ford had to cover up the light holes if someone wanted them for a 67/69.
Green Sales shows both in stock. I am assuming they are N.O.S. and not aftermarket. But they can tell you.
Sorry late back to the party. The part numbers on those corners are:
DOTZ99280A58A....R/S.
DOTZ99280A59A....L/S.
These are the ones for "with" the lights. They are listed as including the covers Ford had to cover up the light holes if someone wanted them for a 67/69.
Green Sales shows both in stock. I am assuming they are N.O.S. and not aftermarket. But they can tell you.
Guys, I'm putting the new Master Cylinder on tomorrow. Hope that will fix the brakes. Rear are working but no front brakes at all. They would not bleed in the front. Chime in on tips. Last time I installed a MC was in the 80's...
Guys, I'm putting the new Master Cylinder on tomorrow. Hope that will fix the brakes. Rear are working but no front brakes at all. They would not bleed in the front. Chime in on tips. Last time I installed a MC was in the 80's...
"Bench bleed" it 1st. If the replacement M/C doesn't come with a bench bleeding kit I would assume the parts store you are getting it from can sell you one.
Are you sure it's the M/C at fault and not farther down stream? Like MAYBE this:
"Bench bleed" it 1st. If the replacement M/C doesn't come with a bench bleeding kit I would assume the parts store you are getting it from can sell you one.
Are you sure it's the M/C at fault and not farther down stream? Like MAYBE this:
M/C is leaking a little around the top of res. But it could be something else as well. When I tried to bleed the front brakes nothing at all came out. I did not have time to work on brakes today. I have a core hit list and hope to be on the brakes soon.
Actually the beds are not all the same but they will fit. My 67 highboy bed was getting pretty rusty and I found a 69 bed that was a on a pickup bed trailor. The guy sold me the bed and I swapped my old bed over to the trailer frame and put the 69' bed on my 67. The 69 bed fit my 67 without modification but my 67 would not fit the 69. All the bolt holes are the same but there is a support channel under the rear of the bed that had to be notched on the 67 bed to fit the 69. Since he just used it for a trailer i just cut it out of the way and it allowed the bed to sit down on the frame. I would of never thought there was a diff.
F250, I'm loving watching the progress on this story. I think its awesome what your doing with gramps truck!
Thanks All for the comments. Brakes are working well in back the new MC helped but did not fix the front. One of the lines broke on me. So I need new brake lines for the front both sides from the upper wheel rubber line / part to the WC. Are those lines at NAPA? Or where is the best place to buy? with it being a Highboy what part numbers? I will need to repalce the back rubber line as well. It is looking rough. Then I think the solid line will break when I try to remove the rubber line. With that in mind please chim in and let me know what would be the best way to successful brakes. Thanks -
Bed is on at this point but not bolted down. Had to make a mod for the bed to fit. The CS bed must be a little diff. The rest of the bed looks right but will have to look it over better tomorrow.
On the timing, do you guys have any tips? Should I rebuild the Holley carb to make sure that is good? Truck has been been sitting for over 10 years but guy said it was started and moved from time to time. So my timing issue could be a combination of carb and timing? It's the 360 with a 4 barrel carb. He had the dealer install a 4 barrel when truck was new.
Thanks all... closer ever day to hitting the road!
Last edited by F2501972; Dec 3, 2016 at 11:07 PM.
Reason: I deleted a double posting and then posted my timing question
yes rebuild it, don't just wing it, fix it once then your good to go..
I'd think the rear brake line cost about double as one front brake line does. about 10-12 yrs ago $33 bucks 10-$12 then at auto zone. Napa good but a little higher in my area.
I also has to replace all my hard lines for the brakes. As, I found them stating to rust inside.
If your putting on a bed with a tool box the rear spring will make contact with the rear of the tool box. I had to cut a hole the box to get the spring bolt out then made a patch door if ever need to get to the bolt again..
I bought new brake hoses front and rear for my truck recently at the local napa. Fronts were like $13 a piece and the rear hose was around $22. I would definitely check timing and kit the carb!!! If it was me, I would prob get rid of the points and go to a Pertronix. Btw, if the steel lines are that bad you might as well go ahead and replace them too.