It sounds as if your light circuit is indeed pulling more power than it should, and it was just timing in that your old switch had finally had enough. It happens even when things are working fine, but add some extra resistance and things can wear out much more quickly.
Your new switch might even work for years, but I'd say get the relays for sure. Sounds like you are, but I wanted to reinforce that. All modern cars that I'm aware of have relays in their headlight circuits. Yes, it constitutes the "more to go wrong" scenario, but while they're doing their job everything works so much better.
And all your headlight switches, now and in the future will thank you!
I may have glossed over it, so if it was already mentioned, sorry for the duplication. But your switch does not run through a fuse, so has it's own built-in circuit breaker. Other than a totally failed switch then, that's what you were likely experiencing. Just a self-resetting circuit breaker doing it's job.

The bonus to adding relays is that if there is enough voltage drop now, your lights will be MUCH brighter with the relays in place. Even if it's all working well, relays might still give you brighter headlights. And that's usually a good thing.
So clean the grounds while you're at it (you'll see them just by following the wires from the headlight plugs), inspect the headlight connectors closely for rust or just old age breaking down the wires, and even replace them if they look questionable. That extra heat that you felt at the switch connector might have been present down at the headlights too. So look for any wires that look like they've been overheating and look for the reason.

And with the quality of today's parts in the toilet, when you next have to replace the floor dimmer, get a second one as a spare!
Of course, a little bit of 12ga wire in the glovebox you can scrounge up as a jumper wire will get you home too. If your dimmer ever goes out you can unplug it and jumper the appropriate two wires together.

Oh, and speaking of roadside fixes, if your headlight switch ever starts giving you the headlight two-step while out driving again, stop and unplug one of the headlights. This is not a fix, but will often get you home from cutting the load the switch sees in half. You won't see as well as with two headlights, but at least you'll have one. The alternative is to keep pulling over to let it cool down, or drive while blind!

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, all good advice, and very helpful for any unfortunate driving home in the dark situations. In my case, we were driving home, on country dirt roads, with only starlight when the headlights blinked off. Switching to the low beams, gave me lights, but when I switched back ot the high beams, they only lasted a few moments. I ordered, and received a new light switch, and will order a new dimmer switch soon. With most of the roads in Southern Baja being dirt, and thousands of wandering cows, good lighting is of paramount importance, or you risk "Bumper Burger" every mile. Cows are fenced OUT of the farmer's fields, and left to wander the countryside and forage on their own. Cars & trucks beware.

Many times, I have thought of adding powerful driving lights, but just do not like the look of them, on an old truck. With my custom carved wood & steel front bumper, I have not found a place for them, that looks good. I know, that looks are in 2nd place to driving and seeing at night. Perhaps, I will have an ephiny, and discover a location that pleases me, and provides more light. Maybe below the wood front bumper?

Baja

 

My original 352 FE had a breather cap on the drivers side valve cover and a metal down draft vent tube on the passenger side valve cover (early 1965 model). I found a used 2V carb spacer with a PCV port on Ebay, the PCV hose and grommet from Macs, and the PCV valve at Napa. I didn't like the idea of venting crank gas, oil, etc. right down under the cab.

 

Drivers side cab mount. Going to put a steel plate below the mount and see how that holds for now. At some point will need to pull the cab and install new cab mounts on both sides

 

Probably the best option for a quick and solid fix... good luck with it amigo

Baja

 

You will want to go up the side as well to distribute the weight better. Those are not original cab mounts correct?

 

fe390, I'm not sure if they are original cab mounts. But I am sure the cab will need to be removed at some point down the road to have new cab mounts installed.

 

What do you guys think about the Scott Drake water necks C8AE-8592-B? I had a guy send me an old one that I cleaned up but not sure I should use it. I'll post pics. Also where can I find the body clips for the hood lip? I'll post a pic on that as well. Hope everyone is doing well and staying healthy with this pandemic.

Thanks for the help on a water neck for the 390 and the clips for the hood lip.

 

Need hood clips to put the chrome upper lip back on.

 

See the one on left I broke. Then I put a chrome water neck on and it is leaking. I read where the chrome necks have that issue. So I would like to find NOS water neck. I appreciate the guy sending me his old one but after cleaning it up it's rough. Thoughts?

 

Those clips are pretty ubiquitous. I saw them at a local body parts supply.

Also, did you check LMC? https://www.lmctruck.com/1957-72-for...l-arch-molding

 

X2 what cBrown is saying, I think I bought some at Napa. For the 2 ends of the hood trim side pieces, you should be able to find an expanding rubber grommet + a stainless screw at the hardware store. The rubber grommet has a brass nut imbedded in it. I found them at Ace hardware (fastenal I think).

 

LMC or Dennis carpenter for both of those parts.

 

Jeff, in 2017 I bought the Spindle Nut Washer aftermarket and today I took the rear end apart becuase my ebrake was sticking. When taking the rear drum apart I noticed the tit on the spindle nut washer was sheared off. In 2017 - I did notice that the aftermarket spindle nut washer was about half the thickness of the old one. So, do you have a good source for those washers? Once I put the drivers side back together I'll move the truck and take the passenger side apart to see if that side is sheared off as well. So I'm looking to buy a set of those washers and would really like to find OEM NOS. What are your thoughts? Thanks - Shawn

 

The. Correct way to install the washers is they must be greased up and the nut, if not the nut causes the washer to grab and turn shearing the tit key tab off. Been there done that. Ok Orich