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So the Supercrew hit 2 codes the other day, both pointed to the upstream O2 sensor. So I picked one up on the way home, went to change it and found this....
Apparently someone used universal O2 sensors on it whe m they did the headers. So I re did all the connections and made sure that all 4 wires are atleast connected. I guess we will see what happens before I replace it.
Then I moved on to working on my Cab swap. I got the donor cab off the frame, and did a little more dismantling on Ol' Blue.
So the Supercrew hit 2 codes the other day, both pointed to the upstream O2 sensor. So I picked one up on the way home, went to change it and found this....
Apparently someone used universal O2 sensors on it whe m they did the headers. So I re did all the connections and made sure that all 4 wires are atleast connected. I guess we will see what happens before I replace it.
Then I moved on to working on my Cab swap. I got the donor cab off the frame, and did a little more dismantling on Ol' Blue.
Had Friday & Saturday off so put in a full 12 hours each day, only did a little bit today, Sunday, just could not get into it after the last 2 days.
Warning eye candy to follow
Friday & Saturday's work.
I picked up the needed hardware for the front running board brackets to front cross member but did not measure or drill holes yet, hope to do that tomorrow.
So the rear of the bed started like this
with this much over hang
Back side of rear style side panel. This bed bolt brace is spot welded to the rear panel and the rear cross member.
Rear panel cut away and the bed bolt brace left to weld the flare side rear panel to.
Bed bolt brace trimmed some to fit rear panel. Note the triangle part on the right side. That is part of the rear cross member to rear side panel support the keeps the back sides upright.
After more trimming on the bed bolt brackets I was able to get the flair side rear panel bolted in place.
I also pulled the rear bumper inside the garage a few days back.
It had a steel channel as wide as the bumper to support the trailer hitch and it weighed a ton. Had to use MAP gas to heat the nuts up to get them off. I also took my BFH to the bumper to straighten it out as it was bent up. It looks good enough but someone drilled holes in the face of the bumper for the tag so it is junk. I may weld up the holes and paint the bumper to save $$
I also have 2 bent front bumpers and may try and straighten & paint 1 of them too.
Dave ----
Sunday I got the front running boards on the bed bolted up and did the same to the front bed side braces to front cross member.
Running board bracket to front bed cross member.
Front side brace to front cross member.
Cant tell you how many times I have been up & down off the creeper last 2 days. Because of that, that is all I had in me for the day.
I did check over my parts truck scrap metal pile for metal I can use to repair the lower part of the beds front panel. Think I can use 1 of the style cross members cut down to fix it.
Also think I can use the cabs rear wall for a tail gate. Should be big enough just don't know if strong enough once it is cut away from the main cab.
Dave ----
Not so much my back as my knees and stomach. The bed is just high enough you are doing crunches to reach some of the areas and this body was not made to be doing crunches! LOL
I am still trying to get out to the garage today as I have off again but with the cold temps and still hurting it is hard to get out there. I would like to get the welding done on the rear sill/cross member & rear panel.
Not a lot just hard to get this body out there to do it. Dave ----
I did not do anything on the truck but for it.
After getting help and helping others with HVAC control panel wiring & vacuum hoses I found my 2 panels are not for my year truck but could work if need be there is a member that is going to hit a junk yard and get me the needed parts.
Once I have the parts installed & can get the column installed and maybe get the truck running.
I now wait for HVAC parts but there is more to be done it the project.
Dave ----
It was cold in the garage (34*) and that made it hard to get going.
Pulled the 2 year old batt. out from under the work table. Still had 11 volts so thru it on the charger. After a good charge and a rest it tested at 12.5 volts, good for me.
Finished hooking up the ALT. Had to make jumper wires because the harness had a plug and the ALT studs and I did not want to cut wires just yet.
Hooked up the last heater hose then started on vacuum lines. Did not get far, wrong size hose. Also spent a lot of time trying to find out how the lines get run and I think I got it now.
Ordered some parts kingpins, mirror the wife drove over and tail gate hinges so when I get to it make a tail gate from the rear cab whats left of the parts truck.
Dave ----
Extended the spare carrier under the rear fuel tank so I could fit a 285/75r16. Used 5/8s threaded rod and some locknuts, and came up with A way to keep it from loosening up. Also started on a fuel separator bracket to mount on the frame. Changed coolant, lower radiator hose, heater core, managed to break the drain the process, so had to improvise. Added a ground strap to the core, and 3 more to the truck. Should be the last of the electrolysis issues.
Yesterday I started cleaning the gauge clusters, gauge bezels and radio bezels so I can pic the best parts and refirb them.
When pulling the AMP gauge from the pod the stud kept spinning and it ate the film so gauge & film not good.
When putting it together to be safe wile I worked on other things I found the film where the harness plugs in is FUBAR so did not feel to bad on the gauge causing damage.
Today: You can get a lot done when you cant sleep and hit the garage at 2am!
Yesterday I picked up vacuum hose and fittings so today I got the vacuum lines run. I need to swap 2 lines for the air filter snorkel and will do that when I pull it to take it to the parts store to show them the breather they sold me that there is no way the clip fits to hold it in place. I also need to pickup the little 90* fitting that fits on the breather the hose goes on and a grommet and fitting for the valve cover.
Then on to the bed rear panel & floor. Welded them and ground down the welds.
It is done so if I want to install the stock tail gate I can with out needing to redo the area if I left the floor over hang like I was thinking of doing.
The moved on to the front panel. The bottom was rusted away and because I am using the style side floor I sits higher so it had to be trimmed shorter anyway.
I had to trim off a little more to get all the bad part gone but it worked out good for the part I was going to use to add the bottom lip back.
You ask what am I going to use for the bottom lip? One of the style side floor cross beams I had to remove when I shorten the bed floor.
It is heavy gauge like the front panel so welding it should not be bad.
The holes in the lip to the floor will be welded up and new holes drilled as they do not line up to the ribs on the floor as you will see in the last picture.
The front panel is bolted to the sides. The light color between the ribbed floor & dark front panel is the lip I made from the cross beam. I is just sitting there as it needs a little more fine tuning.
Quitting time was 3pm made for a long day.
Dave ----
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
