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Good deal, I spent the day lifting the bed and fixing the leaking rear sender, apparently I used the wrong gasket when I put the tank in, used a skinny one instead of the thick one. Hardest part was moving my small but heavy toolbox
Pull the dash frame & wiring off the parts truck bench seat and looked it over. Found the PO hacked the heat/vent/AC area up to get the radio out and see there is nothing to bolt that panel to.
Thinking of removing that part from the non-AC dash and glassing it or Plastex-ing it on to the AC dash frame so I have some way to hold the panel in place.
If it was not for this hacked area it would have been bolted in.
With the dash frame off the bench seat and I had a helper today I pulled the seat and got it blown off of bondo dust and glass then installed in the truck. It will have to come out or unbolted when the carpet gets installed.
Also pulled the seat belts from parts truck & installed.
Got the cab light and wiring that runs by rocker and up the pillar pulled and installed.
I will have to splice the pillar wire as I used spray foam and the wire is "foamed in!".
Helper also started taking the moldings off the style side parts truck bed so I can get the panels off so I end up with just the floor. I hope to use the floor for my flair side
Dave ----
This morning I got out there and cut all the stock exhuast out of the truck. Then I welded up my new straight pipe that dumps just behind the cab. Definitely a little louder now, and you can hear the turbo working.
Did a little more for the truck project.
I worked on the dash pad to see how it would turn out. Well not too happy and would not use it unless I had to.
I used a knife to cut down some of the white latex foam then hit it with 80 grit sand paper.
Then brushed on bed liner and that is where it turned to crap! I was hoping it would give some texture to the pad and it did....brush strokes! I am going to see if I can find spray on to see if that will make it look better.
Oh the bed liner started to eat the spray foam and made it soft.
Then it was on to the dash frame and the hacked out heat/vent/ac panel area fix. Hacked AC dash
Donor non-ac dash
Part cut out
First fitting of panel, just needs a little more trimming to fit just right.
That panel has 2 tabs at the top that screws to the main metal frame and the ash tray at the bottom also to the main metal frame. I do plan on using fiber glass rosin to "glue" that part to the main plastic frame.
Dave ----
Did a little more for the truck project.
I worked on the dash pad to see how it would turn out. Well not too happy and would not use it unless I had to.
I used a knife to cut down some of the white latex foam then hit it with 80 grit sand paper.
Then brushed on bed liner and that is where it turned to crap! I was hoping it would give some texture to the pad and it did....brush strokes! I am going to see if I can find spray on to see if that will make it look better.
Oh the bed liner started to eat the spray foam and made it soft.
Then it was on to the dash frame and the hacked out heat/vent/ac panel area fix. Hacked AC dash
Donor non-ac dash
Part cut out
First fitting of panel, just needs a little more trimming to fit just right.
That panel has 2 tabs at the top that screws to the main metal frame and the ash tray at the bottom also to the main metal frame. I do plan on using fiber glass rosin to "glue" that part to the main plastic frame.
Dave ----
Look into plastic welding and sem texturing pads. That may be what you need to get the results you want.
Look into plastic welding and sem texturing pads. That may be what you need to get the results you want.
The banker (wife) would kill me if I bought a plastic welder. I have a kit for plastic parts Plastex, that is pretty good but I am low on 1 of the chemicals. Fiber glass rosin should work fine. I don't really need to glue it but factory had it as 1 part.
As for the pad this was more of an expirament than anything else. I now know what will and will not work and still look good.
I have another pad with some little cracks and a dash cover coming to fix that one like new.
Dave - - - -
The banker (wife) would kill me if I bought a plastic welder. I have a kit for plastic parts Plastex, that is pretty good but I am low on 1 of the chemicals. Fiber glass rosin should work fine. I don't really need to glue it but factory had it as 1 part.
As for the pad this was more of an expirament than anything else. I now know what will and will not work and still look good.
I have another pad with some little cracks and a dash cover coming to fix that one like new.
Dave - - - -
I've got one from harbor freight, $70 regular price, and I've used a heat gun and scrap Plastic to repair my honda atv fenders. Used some wire mesh pushed into the plastic from the backside to reinforce it.
You cant get to the back side because of the metal frame behind that part.
And to take the plastic part off the metal frame could be asking for trouble and maybe break it more.
I should find the PLASTEX, PLASTIC REPAIR KITS, FIX CRACKS, REPAIR PLASTIC box in my shop to see what chemical I need and order it so I have it on hand when needed.
BTW it can also be used to repair ATV fenders but I have only used it to make a new
lip that screws go thru on a gauge panel you cant get any more.
Dave ----
Well got the EGT on the dually today... not sure I like the location I put it, so may move that around a little and figure what's the easiest to see. Then I replaced the air filter because it was time...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
