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Josh, sorry took so long to get the measurement but it is good news........it is also 37.5" to the outside of the frame rails.
Dave ----
I need to find time to come and check it out.
Was planning on hitting the shop this morning to do the last spray, but the rain told me to stay in bed. So might try this afternoon. After that it'll be some touch ups but nothing serious.
There are a few nickel and dime things I need as well. I have a list out in the shop. The next thing I need to deal with is the fuel system. I want that buttoned up and done before bolting the bed back on. Well Ideally...
I am guessing it is a Holley if you are changing the squirter?
Sometimes if you go too large squirter you run out of volume and need to move up to a 50cc pump from the 30cc pump.
I had a carb that was to big for the motor it was on and it also had a bog (drag motor) and I was able to bump the time up to help it. It's still there but can live with it now. I should of put the smaller carb back on but I was lazy and both got the same ET so why change it.
Dave ----
Yea it's a holley, I'm going with a smaller squirter, and gonna adjust the accelerator pump down a little. I really think it floods it when the acclerator pump dumped the fuel in, hoping the smaller one and may put a lighter spring on it will let it catch it's breath a little better. Then I'll play with the timing a little more to see if I can get it dialed in.... may even borrow a light for it.
Bumper is still on the parts truck so I don't go tripping over it.
When you want to swing by just give me a heads up.
Weekends are best but with this weather this week who knows if I will be working, today was a short day and am home rest of day.
Tomorrow I will be in & out, seeing doctors and part of that I will be blind in 1 eye.
Ok work thread:
Yesterday I sprayed expanding foam between the roof panels for 2 reasons.
1-to help keep the roof outer panel from caving in when I sand it for paint. Was fun doing the body work on it.
2-to help insulate from the hot & cold.
I also did a little work on a dash pad I started to repair last month. If it does not turn out good no lost as it was just to start with.
What it looked like after my first try using latex expanding foam.
Now it sat outside in the weather for a month and the speaker hole sunk in as the backer, alum tape & screen, did not hold it up and some of the larger cracks also opened up a little.
So I removed the speaker mess and sanded down the pad to get it some what smooth before I installed a stiff backer.
Sheet metal strips held in with hot glue. Ran a "glue bead" around the edges of the strips. I also forced glue into the cracks on the top side.
Had some foam left over so filled the speaker hole.
I will trim that down & shape it along with the cracks so some what smooth.
The plan is it use I think 2 coats of bed liner I have left over from the cab floor as that will give it texture and use SEM paint to paint it red to match the inside of the truck.
Dave ----
Yea it's a holley, I'm going with a smaller squirter, and gonna adjust the accelerator pump down a little. I really think it floods it when the acclerator pump dumped the fuel in, hoping the smaller one and may put a lighter spring on it will let it catch it's breath a little better. Then I'll play with the timing a little more to see if I can get it dialed in.... may even borrow a light for it.
What size carb and is it a DP?
I have never gone smaller on a squirter but who knows maybe that's what your motor wants.
When you say "adjust the accelerator pump down a little" are you talking about the nut/bolt with the spring? If so that does not get adjusted other than to make sure it is touching the pump arm at rest and IIRC should have room to fit feeler gauge between arm & bolt head so the pump does not bottom out. I don't remember what that gauge is maybe .015?
Other than squirter(s) the only other thing I know you can change is the pump cams. Some cams pump a lot at first then little at the end, others a little at first lot at end and others a combo of that. I have not needed to play with the pump cams on any of the Holley's I have run.
Is this what you are talking of?
As for power valves only 1 carb (2300 v2 500cfm) did I need to change it on that was used on the street mostly. All my other Holley's were used for racing off road & drag racing 1/4mile.
You know the first rule right? Only make 1 change at a time. Change squirter and give it a try then pump settings with the cams.
Good luck
Dave ----
Degreased the engine on the truck, hoping to reseal some stuff Saturday. Picked up a set of wheels and tires for the atv, mainly just wanted the wheels. Stripped and polished one wheel,now to do the other 3.
Finally got the transmission filled up and went out for a spin. Nary a drop leaked out. Happy day.
Also did a long overdue oil change and planning to do plugs tomorrow. If I have time, I hope to replace the Ibeam pivot bushings with some poly ones but have to learn how to do that.
Finally got the transmission filled up and went out for a spin. Nary a drop leaked out. Happy day.
Also did a long overdue oil change and planning to do plugs tomorrow. If I have time, I hope to replace the Ibeam pivot bushings with some poly ones but have to learn how to do that.
Drill old rubber bushing, crush steel outer sleeve inwards, knock it out, wire brush, press in new bushing.
It's a 650 vacuum secondary it's to big, but it was free so gonna try to make it work. Worse case i buy a 450 but I'd rather not if I can help it.
I don't think a 650 vacuum secondary is too large for a 302?
If it idles then it just needs a little tuning is all.
Part of that bog may be the secondary opening too fast and being it does not have a pump on that side you get a bog.
So if you cant turn out the bog with the squirter & cam try a heavier spring for the secondary.
Dave ----
Not alot of difference but it's a 300. Doing the math a 450 would be perfect. The squirter helped a little bit, but still has a little stumble. The stumble is only when you first punch it, even when doing it in idle, and I watch the secondaries they don't move.
Poly needs the outer sleeve as it only comes with the inner. So I can drill/cut/torch out the inner and rubber but have to keep the outer sleeve pristine. My onlyquestion is about the need to support the frame or anywhere else or can I do it just sitting on the ground. Someone in the 61-66 said they supported the frame but I don't know if that is needed.
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