Ok on the computer now.



The trained eye always sees things others do not and why he kept having you sand more.
That is the best way 320 before priming but if you use 220 you just lay the primer on thicker is all. Then 320 followed up with 400 wet sanding on the primer before paint.


Benz, on the rusted roof look over this post I posted in on what I use on rust. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-repair.html
My roof after I got most of the old filler off was covering rust and dents from what looked like someone walking on the roof.
I used the Eastwood disc's, gray one, on an air grinder could use elect. if that is what you have. It does a great job taking old paint & filler off it down to good metal. Once down to good metal I used my stud welder & puller setup to pull the dents out and get it some what back into shape.


I then treated it with a 50/50 mix of the acid (in the post) and water. I let this sit for 2 or 3 days to work in and dry. Hit the roof with 180 grit on a DA air sander and body filler and sanding.
I also used the acid on the frame when it was bare before painting and hit any other rust spots on the body before priming.


Now because the roof has 2 panels and the top wants to push in when sanding there was some talk of using spray foam between the panels. When it expands it should hold the outer panel in place for sanding.
It will also cut down on road noise & heat coming in from up top or losing heat from inside. No I have not done this yet but will (maybe this weekend?) before painting the inside.


BTW the last sanding of the body before priming , 2 coats, was with 220 both with DA on flat areas and by hand. I need to sand that primer back down as it went on too dry, wrong temperature thinner, and give it 2 more coats of primer before I think it may be ready for paint, sanding will tell.


Are you using a high build primer or normal primer.
If high build then I would think 220 before priming would be ok then 320/400 of the primer before painting.
Hope that helps you and others that are doing this.
Dave ----

 

YESSSS I think I have east wood disc's arriving today so that was the plan of attack for the roof. I'm going to keep going on the cab until I'm happy. I'm not a perfectionist and this is the first time trying body work, but it's relaxing and I'm really enjoying it, particularly when it comes out looking good. Like the bed for the most part. I'll get it all blocked to 320. I hope anyway, I'm getting ansy to start spraying some color.

I'm using a 2k primer that I believe is high build. Sands great. I think, like you said, it went on dry on the hood, so I'm not sure if I have to redo that. Right after spraying it was covered in 'dust' of some kind. I've done about 3 coats of primer on everything with block sanding each one.

 

Looking good Josh.

 

Well I got the transmission crossmember trimmed, and bolted in today. Hope to have the transmission in, and maybe even set the cab on this weekend maybe...

Also a new goodie showed up tonight.

 

Got a little bit more done tonight, didn't really take many pics though. Got the heater/ac blower box off the firewall. Also painted it to match the truck. Just need to scrounge up a couple pieces of metal to cover those holes now.

Also took the 9" apart. Got to pic up some new bearings for the spool tomorrow then I'll be ready to putit back together.

 

Looking forward to seeing what the fire wall looks like painted there Larry.

Spent a couple hours hand sanding the tail gate with 120 on the block to see how bad it really looks. Besides the dents I knew about I only found one or two more minor dings. The bed and gate were in really much better shape than the cab of this project. Also the grunge/dirt worked great as a guide coat.

 

Josh, that bed looks great!
Have you gotten back to work on the cab yet

 

I have. I got some stripper discs for the roof, and I've started sanding the rest. When it came to the bed and tailgate, like you showed me, I could easily tell when it started smoothing out and leveling, and where the dent's dings and issues were. However, the cab isn't showing all that very well. I'm thinking I just need to keep going on it till I start to feel it smooth out then maybe I'll start seeing the smaller trouble areas. Or maybe I need to shoot a light coat of primer on it and see what that show's me. Not real sure.

 

If you aren't sure about high or low spots spraying a thin coat of promer then use a "Longboard" sander, non air type and go up and down, or in an "X" pattern will show high and low spots.

 

You guys are kicking a$$ on your projects. Nice work.

 

Yanked the cowl on the f250 due to a water leak in the floorboard, found some cracked seam sealer, scraped the old loose junk off, primed and brushed on some new seam sealer last night. I'll see what it does.

 

I bought "glide coat" from some place in a contrasting color, think it is primer? You spray a "fog coat" over the area and then sand as above.
Edit:
Eastwood Guide Coat Black Aerosol 12 oz
Only see it in black so it will not work on my black primer

In rebuilding my truck I swapped out a non-AC firewall for a AC one and also used brush on seam sealer.
I have seen another post where the person used that spray sealer seen on TV to seal a boat bottom with a screen door.
He said it was easy, think he changed the nozzle so he could use a straw to pin point where he wanted it to go.
I have used the clear spray sealer on my hose roof and it worked.


I would not use under coat as some have as it does not seal well and smells.
Just my .02
Dave ----

 

Waiting on a new transmission mount so I can get the transmission bolt holes marked and drilled. The stock one off the c6 was to short, still may have to get creative since I'm using the lower mount from the 96 with E4od.

 

I found my issue was two plugs missing. On the pass side in the cowl, had some on the parts truck no actual cracks were the issue, but it's fixed now. Gonna use undercoat to protect the primer and seam sealer, seems like the dentside guys stand by it on here. Probably overkill,but I definitely drive this truck alot.

 

Well transmission is officially in and bolted to the engine.



Tomorrow morning the plan is to setup the 9" housing with the spool. Then once I am able to get a little help I hope to try and set the cab on the frame.