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Official NCFTE Works Thread

 
  #2161  
Old 04-12-2019, 07:30 PM
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The kind of shaft bearing scoring that you were talking about Sparky comes from cutting the engine off to soon before turbo cool down. The center section of the turbo acts like a big heat sink and cooks the stagnant oil in the bearing journals. Then on next start up you get dry bearing scoring. This is why I always wait on my EGT to drop to at least 250* or so before shutdown. I also have turbo cool down timers on our big trucks for this reason.
 
  #2162  
Old 04-12-2019, 08:29 PM
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Got a lot of work done this week, thanks to Dustin, Wesley, and Marty coming out. Wes is going to ride my old Honda Rubicon on Saturday next week, so that had to be put back together. He knocked it out fairly quick, and added an oil change to boot as well as going through the brakes to make sure the corrosion that eats at them after being in water wasn't going to stop them.

Dustin knocked out a few items on the truck, like doing the 3G alternator upgrade and helping align the drivers door. The alternator upgrade got me thinking about ground wires and researching those. Started looking for the chassis ground and figured out where it was supposed to be. Of course only a stub of wire left there. So, that could be a problem. I'm going to add that back in next week. but doubt the big truck is going to the camp out. Oh well, the 150 is probably more comfortable anyway. I'm really starting to question ever working on this truck. Way more issues that I ever thought there was, and I've owned it now for 10 years or more... I really don't know some days how it's kept running for so long.
 
  #2163  
Old 04-12-2019, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MAKO314 View Post
The kind of shaft bearing scoring that you were talking about Sparky comes from cutting the engine off to soon before turbo cool down. The center section of the turbo acts like a big heat sink and cooks the stagnant oil in the bearing journals. Then on next start up you get dry bearing scoring. This is why I always wait on my EGT to drop to at least 250* or so before shutdown. I also have turbo cool down timers on our big trucks for this reason.
thats weird because i always let it run to cool off before shutting it down... i use the remote start (which i can set without it shutting down) to let it run for 10 mins to cool down after a highway run... or when i was towing.. now i got the EGT's in there i can see those temps everyone says to watch...
 
  #2164  
Old 04-13-2019, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Sparky83 View Post
thats weird because i always let it run to cool off before shutting it down... i use the remote start (which i can set without it shutting down) to let it run for 10 mins to cool down after a highway run... or when i was towing.. now i got the EGT's in there i can see those temps everyone says to watch...
.

Yeah I do the same thing. A lot of it has to do with the oil being used too and it’s max temp. I’ve alway ran rotella synthetic in my psd but the big trucks always get conventional rotella 15w40. It would be nice if there was a way to keep the oil flowing for several minutes after shut down. It be better on all the engine bearings. A good friction modifier like “hotshots diesel secret” or Archoil will also help on the cooked oil and dry starts. I actually use a gallon of Lucas in every 10 gal oil change in the big CATs just to help combat this issue.
 
  #2165  
Old 04-13-2019, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MAKO314 View Post
.

Yeah I do the same thing. A lot of it has to do with the oil being used too and it’s max temp. I’ve alway ran rotella synthetic in my psd but the big trucks always get conventional rotella 15w40. It would be nice if there was a way to keep the oil flowing for several minutes after shut down. It be better on all the engine bearings. A good friction modifier like “hotshots diesel secret” or Archoil will also help on the cooked oil and dry starts. I actually use a gallon of Lucas in every 10 gal oil change in the big CATs just to help combat this issue.
Im running Rotella T4 (what use to be their plain jane Rotella T triple protect before they changed the bottle) 15w40 in it.. UOA always came back "clean" except for a slight fuel dilution issue... but not much i can do about it... i wont ever be putting anything from HSS in the truck... have read too many horror stories associated with their products use to ever try..
 
  #2166  
Old 04-13-2019, 08:07 PM
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I put HSS in my old 7.3, it seemed to run a little smoother.
 
  #2167  
Old 04-14-2019, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 77mud View Post
I put HSS in my old 7.3, it seemed to run a little smoother.
the stuff works great. I’ve used it in several different engines and never had anything but positive results. The oil additive will absolutely free up sticky injectors. You’ve got to realize that most folks that have a horror story to tell, had a royally screwed engine that they expected hss to magically cure. These products are no different than anything else, you never hear the good but the few bad experiences go viral. I tend to trust the folks I let work on my rig engines over some dipstick that spun a bearing in his psd and expected an oil additive to be a “rebuild” in a bottle.
 
  #2168  
Old 04-15-2019, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by MAKO314 View Post
the stuff works great. I’ve used it in several different engines and never had anything but positive results. The oil additive will absolutely free up sticky injectors. You’ve got to realize that most folks that have a horror story to tell, had a royally screwed engine that they expected hss to magically cure. These products are no different than anything else, you never hear the good but the few bad experiences go viral. I tend to trust the folks I let work on my rig engines over some dipstick that spun a bearing in his psd and expected an oil additive to be a “rebuild” in a bottle.
Yea my 7.3 has 390k miles, the injectors needed help for sure, it definitely smoothed the idle.
 
  #2169  
Old 04-15-2019, 03:58 AM
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Well this weekend I ended up pulling the transmission apart on the 96 because I only had first and third gear. I ended up swapping my old VB out of Ol blue into it. Got to pick up a couple more quarts of fluid, but it definitely has all 3 gears now. Also fixed the front driveshaft where it broke the last mud bog we had it out too.
 
  #2170  
Old 04-15-2019, 11:39 PM
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Took the truck out for a fun drive to town on the highway and around town driverside consistantly sat 10-20 below the passengerside. How much am i willing to bet 4,8 (probably get one for 7 as well) if i scanned the truck would say low contribution codes again. I swear i feel like replacing the injector harness just to see if i could fix that.
 
  #2171  
Old 04-16-2019, 07:30 PM
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I don’t know anything about the 6.0 but if the injection system is anything at all like the 7.3 the #8 will be cold until the dead end fuel rail is opened up with a regulated return and the oil rail opened with a HPX line. Like I said I know nothing about that engine. With the 7.3 the #6 and #8 fire back to back which effectively starves the #8 for oil pressure and fuel pressure. The OEM tried to remedy this by installing a long lead injector in the #8 hole. I completely cured the issue with high pressure oil rail crossover and a regulated fuel return system and single shot injectors. Also the uvch on a 7.3 is a great place to start diagnosing a cold hole. Does the 6.0 have that style of harness? What about the big connector that ties it all together on the driver side valve cover, does the 6.0 have that? It’s the cause of a lot of ghost in the 7.3..
 
  #2172  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MAKO314 View Post
I don’t know anything about the 6.0 but if the injection system is anything at all like the 7.3 the #8 will be cold until the dead end fuel rail is opened up with a regulated return and the oil rail opened with a HPX line. Like I said I know nothing about that engine. With the 7.3 the #6 and #8 fire back to back which effectively starves the #8 for oil pressure and fuel pressure. The OEM tried to remedy this by installing a long lead injector in the #8 hole. I completely cured the issue with high pressure oil rail crossover and a regulated fuel return system and single shot injectors. Also the uvch on a 7.3 is a great place to start diagnosing a cold hole. Does the 6.0 have that style of harness? What about the big connector that ties it all together on the driver side valve cover, does the 6.0 have that? It’s the cause of a lot of ghost in the 7.3..
i got rid of the deadhead along time ago with a regulated return... got tired of the factory fuel spring design causing issues for me... so just got rid of it with the regulated return from Drivendiesel... and everytime i scan the truck 4,7 and 8 show up as low contribution.. even after theyve been replaced.. why im figuring its the harness from the FICM to the injectors.. the only wires under the cover run from the injectors to the outside of the rockerbox... the main harness is completely outside the valve covers..

i thought all the 7.3 were done off that rotory pump thing that sat on top of the engine with independent fuel lines running to each injector???
 
  #2173  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Sparky83 View Post
i got rid of the deadhead along time ago with a regulated return... got tired of the factory fuel spring design causing issues for me... so just got rid of it with the regulated return from Drivendiesel... and everytime i scan the truck 4,7 and 8 show up as low contribution.. even after theyve been replaced.. why im figuring its the harness from the FICM to the injectors.. the only wires under the cover run from the injectors to the outside of the rockerbox... the main harness is completely outside the valve covers..

i thought all the 7.3 were done off that rotory pump thing that sat on top of the engine with independent fuel lines running to each injector???
The 7.3 from late 94-03 were all HEUI injected the first gen 7.3 powerstroke had a smaller turbo and injectors, no CAC, 15* swash plate HPOP and a mechanical fuel lift pump. From late 99 on they were 17* HPOP, intercooled, bigger charger and injectors and a high pressure electric fuel lift pump. The injector and glowplug leads are all part of a wiring harness that is actually made into the valvecover gasket and believe me they can be a real pain in the butt. , and the big 42 pin connector on the drivers side cover can be just as bad. They’re also notorious for wires from that connector chaffing on the valve cover and shorting out. The 7.3 also has a injector drive module under the driver side inner fender liner that can cause some ghost.
 
  #2174  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:38 PM
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The old IDI 7.3 was a mechanical engine with injector pump and single cylinder fuel lines. Pre powerstroke.
 
  #2175  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:47 PM
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the 6.0's have the GPH separate from the injectors... both feed through the side of the rocker box... think i got a pic somewhere here...



can see the plug ports for the injectors poking out the side of the rocker box there...



without the cover on you can see the wires running up to the outside cover... unfortunately i didnt have the GPH installed yet when the pic was taken... but they had 3 different versions for the 6.0... all go through the side of the cover...
 

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