Why are you putting one in the downpipe?

 

to tell the turbo temp... the ones ones in the manifolds can help with tuning... but its good to know when the turbo starts cooling off before shutting down a diesel.. especially after long highway runs or doing some heavy towing... turbo only gets oil flow so long as the engines running... but if you shut it down too soon it can boil the residual oil away from the bearings that support the impeller shaft... even when its running there isnt much in there... but they drain quickly once its shut down...

 

Ahh never worried about it on mine. I'll let it idle for a few minutes then shut it down.

 

same.. i usually let it idle using the remote start... itll shut down after 10 minutes of running... but if i have another turbo failure it can show in the temp readings too... last time mine froze in the position where it sits for idle and take off.. ended up melting the impeller...

 

This week I started driving the sport Trac to work. Ever since I reassembled the engine it for the last time, it had this ticking noise, which randomly got louder for a few seconds the other day then completely went away for good. Engine is as quite and smooth now as my parents 2010 explorer with 60k on it. Need to find and fix a few random noises, but fixed the cruise control. It's fun to drive, peppy with 4.10 gears, probably not the best on mpg, but I dont expect it to be. Might try a dent repair kit I picked up from harbor freight to fix some hail damage on the hood, uses glue on tabs and a little bar. Need to swap in the reman steering box I picked up for the f250 sometime too.

 

whos the reman box from??? doesnt look like a redheads one since they paint that cover red instead of blue...

downside to black they show all the imperfections... my stang needs some sections repainted because the paints flaking off in some spots...

 

Bluetop, the guy used to work at redhead, has as good if not a better reputation than redhead.
And we'll see how it cleans up, I just like making things nicer if I can.

 

Got the Exhaust temp sensors installed. Along with the forward driveshaft. And the passenger side inner fender. Then the weather chased me in after that.



Passenger Side EGT probe



Turbo EGT



Driver side EGT



Drilled the hole in the Clutch delete panel since i dont have a clutch... fed the sensors through there...



Wiring mess still waiting for me on the inside of the truck to deal with.. but will finish the outside stuff first before tackling that...

So worked on gluing the driver side sound barrier that hides between the inner fender and the front door hinges to block the wind noise when running down the road.




i dont get why ford didnt reinforce the whole thing... the only place they put the support was in the upper half... the bottom part always collapses without that support... ill add lower support when the glue finishes setting for the upper part like i did with the passenger side one...

 

Replaced the left rear cab corner bushing on the one ton last night and this morning. Well, installed one and removed someone's can coozy's from where they have been sitting for the past half dozen years. Need to do the right rear next, as I put in extended cab bushing, on a crew cab, since I couldn't find crew cab bushings. The extended cab has it sitting a little bit higher than the bed lines. Next week I need to wire in the trailer connector, change the oil, check all the fluids, maybe adjust the cross toe a little. I spent a couple hours this evening going through and putting tools away.

Found that the rear brakes are locked up on the ATV, so will need to dig into that before next month. Also found an upper control arm bushing is shot on the Jeep. Good news there, is I think I have one laying around to throw into it, since it still runs stock uppers with the lift it's on. Monday is a busy day, but going to try to hit the license plate office first thing Tuesday, to get plates for the big truck and the camper. Might even roll the one ton out to the car show next weekend, if everything goes as planned.

 

So I did a pretty boneheaded move. Last week, I finally got around to installing the Toyota 4x4 rear into this little Chevy LUV truck. Something just didn't look right. Drain plug was at the top. Brake lines were at the bottom, with the tee and brake hose pointing downwards. Damn thing is upside down! I guess Toyota mounted their rear UNDER the springs, and Isuzu mounted their rear on TOP of the springs! So I bought some new spring shackles, now I have to remove it and weld on the new spring seats, flip it over and install it correctly.

*Everything I know, I learned the hard way!

 

lol sounds like something i would have done....

 

Well, Cracker, I bet you won't do that again. Many times we learn a lot from out mistakes.

 

Could always see if you can get a set of springs to mount below the axle. Would be less work but more money... But either way I guess you'll have to deal with clocking the input shaft\yoke to the right angle for the driveshaft.

 

id be worried about flipping the axle over because of how the R&P are setup too... least if i understood the post right thats what hes planning to do so that the brake stuff was on top... the gears are curved a certain direction for driving down the road.. spinning it the opposite direction could make it noisier... but then could always install a set of gears from a reverse rotation axle (normally a front axle gear set).. but dont know what axles toyota's had under them to know if there were any matching front axle setups..

Meaning like with Dana they had a 60 series front and rear axle... their rear axles were setup to have the driveshaft turning counter clockwise for forward movement... with the Dana 60 front axles theyre setup to run in Reverse Rotation (clockwise) for forward rotation....

 

Even on fords, rangers were spring over, explorers/ sport Tracs are spring under. Otherwise identical axles to the brakes on certain models.