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Official NCFTE Works Thread

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  #2101  
Old 03-26-2019, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Sparky83
id be worried about flipping the axle over because of how the R&P are setup too... least if i understood the post right thats what hes planning to do so that the brake stuff was on top... the gears are curved a certain direction for driving down the road.. spinning it the opposite direction could make it noisier... but then could always install a set of gears from a reverse rotation axle (normally a front axle gear set).. but dont know what axles toyota's had under them to know if there were any matching front axle setups..

Meaning like with Dana they had a 60 series front and rear axle... their rear axles were setup to have the driveshaft turning counter clockwise for forward movement... with the Dana 60 front axles theyre setup to run in Reverse Rotation (clockwise) for forward rotation....
Sparky NO The axle has to run right side up, otherwise you are right on the ring and pinion. Don't forget the brakes would also need to be changed (after all, can't bleed brakes if the bleed screw is on top!) So two options right? one is to cut\reweld the spring perches on the axle to essential flip it. The other is to change where the spring mounts on the axle. John is putting them on top, but if he changes that and puts them on the bottom, where the yota had it originally, then he would be able to flip the axle back over.

Lots of vehicles run Spring under axles. Some Fords and some Jeeps as well as the Yota come to mind.
 
  #2102  
Old 03-26-2019, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Benztechnc
Sparky NO The axle has to run right side up, otherwise you are right on the ring and pinion. Don't forget the brakes would also need to be changed (after all, can't bleed brakes if the bleed screw is on top!) So two options right? one is to cut\reweld the spring perches on the axle to essential flip it. The other is to change where the spring mounts on the axle. John is putting them on top, but if he changes that and puts them on the bottom, where the yota had it originally, then he would be able to flip the axle back over.

Lots of vehicles run Spring under axles. Some Fords and some Jeeps as well as the Yota come to mind.
for the brakes i was thinking they were drum brakes not disc brakes... since the S10 i had (based off the LUV) were drums... wasnt thinking about yota possibly having disc...
 
  #2103  
Old 03-26-2019, 07:50 PM
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i originally went outside to work on the truck today... but somehow i ended up on the roof...





something to keep in mind... I HATE HEIGHTS!!!!

the plumbing vents in the roof needed sealed and nailed down (because they werent) but main reason i ended up there was because of all the strong winds weve had lately the aluminum wrap over of the facia boards was getting blown off the dormers... they werent nailed down where it meets back at the roof line... one of them was bowed out past the drip line of the shingles.. but luckily no water damage... so musta not happened too long ago...





but either way i still hate heights...
 
  #2104  
Old 03-26-2019, 08:03 PM
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As long as you don't step back to admire your work, you'll be ok Shawn.

Did the porch roof last week end on daughter's house. Low slope so we used a self-stick base sheet and cap sheet. Did have to replace some rotten boards and decking.
 
  #2105  
Old 03-26-2019, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GLR
As long as you don't step back to admire your work, you'll be ok Shawn.

Did the porch roof last week end on daughter's house. Low slope so we used a self-stick base sheet and cap sheet. Did have to replace some rotten boards and decking.
1 problem with stepping back... roof was slippery... dunno if it was just to cold still or the shingles are just that old... but the granules were coming off easily... the only place i could "stand" up on was in the first pic there where the roofs flatter... rest of its very steep...
 
  #2106  
Old 03-26-2019, 08:37 PM
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With your OSHA approved safety restraint....................I've noticed that a lot of builders don't use enough nails on the fascia. It's not like the nails are real expensive or anything
 
  #2107  
Old 03-26-2019, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by GLR
With your OSHA approved safety restraint....................I've noticed that a lot of builders don't use enough nails on the fascia. It's not like the nails are real expensive or anything
not osha approved... but had one of them poly-nylon blue ropes that HF gives away for free from time to time wrapped around me... dunno what dad had the other end attached to on the back side of the house... but when i had to go from the front side to the back side of the house (started up front first) i had him park the tractor on the front side and anchored me to it... and the whole time i was up there Ma nature decided to blast me with some hurricane force winds... few times i could even feel the house wiggle with the winds...
 
  #2108  
Old 03-26-2019, 08:47 PM
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We did a roof in NY once where we tied a couple of ropes to the bumper of my 75 F250. Went to lunch. When we got back one of the guys was supposed to hook the ropes up. When we quit a few hours later and got off the roof... Opps, he forgot to tie the ropes to the bumper.
 
  #2109  
Old 03-26-2019, 09:00 PM
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good thing no one fell.... i think if i ever have to go up there again im getting one of them actual safety harnesses to tie that blue rope to instead... kept having a problem of the "harness" part that was tied up loosening and i retied it a couple times and it kept loosening....
 
  #2110  
Old 03-26-2019, 09:27 PM
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If you ever go back up and have to sit or kneel, I found that carpet foam underlayment or carpet with the weave side down gives a non-slip surface. The foam works ok on metal roofing too.
 
  #2111  
Old 03-26-2019, 09:36 PM
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after getting up there i thought about wishing id taken the rug up with me... but was little late after getting up there lol...
 
  #2112  
Old 03-27-2019, 08:59 AM
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Got a tag put on the one ton, and took it around the block. Gonna go through the basic maintenance stuff that hasn't been done in 7 years tonight, then maybe take it out on the highway. It's got real loose steering, for a fairly new steering box, drag link and cross link on it. So, guessing I need to put a rag joint in, and read something about the shaft being two pieces, with some type of jam or lock tab between them, that can sometimes break. I've been writing out a list of odds and ends I want to complete on it. See what gets done tonight, and everything else will get to wait. The jeep will need an upper control arm, which I might get to this weekend, or might not. Oh and if I'm taking the ATV next month, will need to check out the rear axle, and see why it's locked up.

Things are really piling up this year.
 
  #2113  
Old 03-27-2019, 09:15 AM
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The "joys" of home and vehicle ownership, Josh.
Recently threw some $$$ into my 95 F250 just going trough it. Probably should get a new battery as the one in it is 5 years old.
 
  #2114  
Old 03-27-2019, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Benztechnc
Got a tag put on the one ton, and took it around the block. Gonna go through the basic maintenance stuff that hasn't been done in 7 years tonight, then maybe take it out on the highway. It's got real loose steering, for a fairly new steering box, drag link and cross link on it. So, guessing I need to put a rag joint in, and read something about the shaft being two pieces, with some type of jam or lock tab between them, that can sometimes break. I've been writing out a list of odds and ends I want to complete on it. See what gets done tonight, and everything else will get to wait. The jeep will need an upper control arm, which I might get to this weekend, or might not. Oh and if I'm taking the ATV next month, will need to check out the rear axle, and see why it's locked up.

Things are really piling up this year.
How hard was getting the pitman arm off to swap the box? That's the next thing I need to tackle on mine, then swap the rear fuel tank, but leak test it first. My rag joint was tight, I swapped in a tight steering slip shaft, think it's 2 bolts. Atv brakes, is it the brake pedal that's seized or the actual brake shoes?
 
  #2115  
Old 03-27-2019, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FordTruckfan89
How hard was getting the pitman arm off to swap the box? That's the next thing I need to tackle on mine, then swap the rear fuel tank, but leak test it first. My rag joint was tight, I swapped in a tight steering slip shaft, think it's 2 bolts. Atv brakes, is it the brake pedal that's seized or the actual brake shoes?
when i was doing my 350.. taking it off the gear box took my 3/4" impact gun that has 1000ft-lbs of nut busting torque on a pitman arm puller tool... and you want to get the BIGGER more ROBUST puller for the job... the light duty ones will just break...
 


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