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That sux. They have 10 over kits. It's $35 a cylinder to bore it. He said he'd have to measure it to see if I can get away without boring. That would b a cool $280 in my pocket. Then I could possibly rebuild 3 more times in the future. Don't you have to trash the block if the cylinders are messed up and ur at 30 over?
I think it depends on the engine and how much meat they have between the cylinders. I think it's a good idea to bore that way you know your tight from the get go. But I'm not expert builder. I'm sure by now your looking to save every dime you can. I know what it's like to get in the middle of a big project and start swiping the card like a madman.
You probably wouldn't believe it if I were to tell I have a 2011 E-350 5.4L right now in my bay all apart with only 12,000 miles that spun three rod bearings and one main bearing. The teflon coating on those pistons don't even look as good as your #8 piston!!!
You probably wouldn't believe it if I were to tell I have a 2011 E-350 5.4L right now in my bay all apart with only 12,000 miles that spun three rod bearings and one main bearing. The teflon coating on those pistons don't even look as good as your #8 piston!!!
Wow!!!!! Good news for me huh. Anyone need some "slightly used" pistons? Lol
Ok. Pistons. I'm gonna reference some things for us rookies, most of you already know
This piston came out of #2 cyl. #2 cyl is to the left. If you see how the rod cap bolts thread in vertical, and the rod goes to the left of the horizontal level of the cap bolt heads. Um, follow me???? I'm confused. Lol. So it's fairly easy to see how they were installed, as long as the cyl# is documented
One more rookie observation,,, do you see the triangles that are forged,(or whatever they are) on the rod caps? They point toward each other on their crank journal. It's a journal,,,, right?? That will reference how the cap was installed also.