Engine removal pics
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
Ok. Pistons. I'm gonna reference some things for us rookies, most of you already know
This piston came out of #2 cyl. #2 cyl is to the left. If you see how the rod cap bolts thread in vertical, and the rod goes to the left of the horizontal level of the cap bolt heads. Um, follow me???? I'm confused. Lol. So it's fairly easy to see how they were installed, as long as the cyl# is documented
One more rookie observation,,, do you see the triangles that are forged,(or whatever they are) on the rod caps? They point toward each other on their crank journal. It's a journal,,,, right?? That will reference how the cap was installed also.
This piston came out of #2 cyl. #2 cyl is to the left. If you see how the rod cap bolts thread in vertical, and the rod goes to the left of the horizontal level of the cap bolt heads. Um, follow me???? I'm confused. Lol. So it's fairly easy to see how they were installed, as long as the cyl# is documented
One more rookie observation,,, do you see the triangles that are forged,(or whatever they are) on the rod caps? They point toward each other on their crank journal. It's a journal,,,, right?? That will reference how the cap was installed also.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
So does that mean that they don't have to point to each other,,,, in other engines I mean???
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
That is what it mean's. They are just extra weight. The bump's on the sides are "clamp pad's". They clamp (on these clamp pads) the rod's, hammer them with nitrogen, and break them. A lot of times they will have a different design on 1 side verses the other, so they know the proper way to orient the caps. Some may have the same numbers stamped on one side, so they can match the cap with the beam.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
It's really too bad you are that far away. I literally have that tool sitting on my workbench UNUSED. But the way I read it, that tool only aligns the dowels on both cam and crank which both look relatively simple to do by eye. As far as I'm understanding it, if you turn the crank in a manner where that dowel is sitting perfectly at the 12 0'clock position and seeing where the cam dowel lines up, you should be good to go in my opinion.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Hey Anthony, are you marking stuff as you pull it? You can lightly center punch dots on the rods and caps where they separate and somewhere on the bottom of the piston. 2dots for cyl#2, 3dots for cyl#3 etc. to locate the orientation of the rod, cap, and piston, and it's location in the block. Number stamps are good also if you have some, but everybody has a center punch... Once they are marked like this you can put em in a cardboard box and shake it up and still know which one came out of what hole.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
It's really too bad you are that far away. I literally have that tool sitting on my workbench UNUSED. But the way I read it, that tool only aligns the dowels on both cam and crank which both look relatively simple to do by eye. As far as I'm understanding it, if you turn the crank in a manner where that dowel is sitting perfectly at the 12 0'clock position and seeing where the cam dowel lines up, you should be good to go in my opinion.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
Hey Anthony, are you marking stuff as you pull it? You can lightly center punch dots on the rods and caps where they separate and somewhere on the bottom of the piston. 2dots for cyl#2, 3dots for cyl#3 etc. to locate the orientation of the rod, cap, and piston, and it's location in the block. Number stamps are good also if you have some, but everybody has a center punch... Once they are marked like this you can put em in a cardboard box and shake it up and still know which one came out of what hole.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
I wonder if I could make a tool before I remove the crank. The crank has a dowel, and I think the cam has holes. I'm goin back downstairs n a bit
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
I'm gonna video the slack compared to the crank position sensor gear(I think that is what this is). If I insert the drill bit in the cam gear, then spin the crank clockwise (while standing at the back of engine), to take the slack out if the drill bit. This is what it looks like at the front of the crank
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
Here's a reference video. The crank was spun clockwise, which spun the cam counterclockwise. Red solo cup. Lol
http://youtu.be/99DHKlka46o
http://youtu.be/99DHKlka46o