When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
HOLY crap run60.job well done great pics thank you I hope the 6.0 is back together and on the road stronger than ever? what about the frezee plugs?not to bring up old oil? just wondering havent cought up yet sorry.
HOLY crap run60.job well done great pics thank you I hope the 6.0 is back together and on the road stronger than ever? what about the frezee plugs?not to bring up old oil? just wondering havent cought up yet sorry.
That's a bit of a sore subject. They're still seeping. I'm riding with 7 gal of distilled water n some Indian head n 12 freeze plugs. It sux trying to keep the water unthawed.
I'm gonna have to eat a rear main, rear cover gasket, turbo gasket kit, ac condenser orings, n who knows what else. I have no interest in fighting the removal n install of them with the engine in the truck. I'm hoping to put it off until the summer n take a weekend to do it. I'm building a list right now of other things to do while I'm in there. Like, I'm gonna replace my y pipe, I don't have any signs of problems with it,, but at 635k+, why not. My luck I will stress it to the breaking point while I'm in there.
I've been having issues with the clutch, transmission. It hasn't gotten any better since initial install. I'm kinda at a loss about what to think about what south bend told me.
I've got a question about it,,,, if a pilot bearing is a bit too big for the input shaft, could that cause the bearing to go out on the input shaft? My truck always shifted perfectly until changing the clutch, and engine. It hasn't shifted worth a dang since then. It's hard to get into gear at a stop. And when I took out the first south bend clutch, n put in the second one, I noticed the input shaft had play in it. South bend told me they're pilot bearings aren't the right size n they ordered 10000 pilot bearings that will fit, but they hadn't arrived yet. Thoughts?????
Well think of it this way, the piolet bearing holds the end of the trans shaft straight with the trans. And with the weight of the clutch disc hanging on the shaft it could wear the input bearing.
The last time I did a clutch the piolet bearing was a brass bushing, and it did not fit that tight. You may be able to have one made. I guess the next question is how loose is the piolet bearing. Sorry I could not help more.
Is your rear main seal leaking? I remember you installing it.
During install of the engine it is easy for weight to rest on the clutch disk thus damage to it occurs causing the clutch to hang creating gear grinding and hard shifts. Use a couple of long threaded dowls to help guide u into the trans using good line up. The angle of the dangle will also help. Replacing the pilot and the input bearing are good choices every time along with clutch and throwout bearing. U can use the shaft to align the clutch while U have it out of the trans for the bearing exchange.
Anthony I don't think the clutch is completely disengaging, that's why its hard to get into first........once you're rolling it should shift just fine............is it hard to get in reverse too
Wow, even just trying to hit the technical highlights that was one long read. Anthony, thank you for taking the time to document and photograph your journey to the bowels of the 6.0, really puts things in perspective to see that deep. And thanks for all the input from some smart fellas out there, that's what makes this forum great. Condensed down, this thread could prove quite valuable to others about to walk this path.
Anthony I don't think the clutch is completely disengaging, that's why its hard to get into first........once you're rolling it should shift just fine............is it hard to get in reverse too
It's wierd cause once I get it into gear, I can take it out if gear and wait as long as I want and it will go back into gear, as long as I don't release the clutch.
I actually am about to take them off for a bit n see if it rides differently,,, cause I can't be sure if they are helping or hurting. I will follow up when I have something useful to say. Lol
A lil Silicone sealant will do, red or black are good for the exp plugs. Then cover them with it on the outside to inhibit rust in the future. Not a big deal as it seams.
that's a long thread with tons of info you did a lot of work and did it right hope you don't have to do it again. I did my backing plates and that's enough for me now.
did you ever find out if the rebuilder sent the block with the smaller dowels or the bigger ones, I read the whole thread and didn't see any mention of it.
I know this is a super old post and I dont even know if OP is still around or not. Just wanted to saw awesome job and super appreciate all the pics. I had lifter bearings go through the low oil pump and metal shavings everywhere. My new long block should be shipping out in a couple weeks. It's coming from South Houston Engines. They are building it to '07 specs. My almost 300k truck will get a new lease on life.
Anthony has not been on in some time. The shop seems to be taking all his time.
I don't envy you doing that on soil. The block fully dressed is over 1,100 Lb and
unless your suing a tractor to do the listing things might just sink.
I will be moving it into the shop to do the lifting. I just had to do all the prep work out there. We rebuild semi truck transmissions and rear ends at our shop so lifting is no problem, just can't have it sitting in a bay for more than a few hours at a time.