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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 04:20 PM
  #721  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
They're gonna glass bead (i think thats what he called it) the covers n rocker boxes. Anyone know anything about the process that involves??? Could it mess anything up. They should look brand new. That will be cool.
They were just gonna wash them, but I asked if they have any better way to clean them. I saw a head there that they glass cleaned, and it looked very new n nice.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 04:22 PM
  #722  
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Why glass bead blast them?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 05:07 PM
  #723  
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Glass bead will clean the up and make them look almost new. clean up all threaded bolts holes with air and WD 40 to remove all beads as they can strip threads.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 05:36 PM
  #724  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
They're gonna glass bead (i think thats what he called it) the covers n rocker boxes. Anyone know anything about the process that involves??? Could it mess anything up. They should look brand new. That will be cool.
compressed air, and media to clean with.

walnut shells are used, so is salt, so is glass, so is sand, so is flour.

they use solid CO2 as well... dry ice blasting... no residue from the
media. used a lot for graffiti removal... nothing left but the paint flakes.

glass pellets instead of sand... less aggressive. anything can damage
anything if you don't know what you are doing, but as they are a hone
shop, they probably know what they are about.... as long as you blow
all the residue off after the cleaning process, you should be fine.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 05:52 PM
  #725  
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Very cool. $50 to glass bead everything. No need to even think about painting if they look new. I'm gonna be close on money to finish it all. Kinda scary. I'm really wanting to send my ficm to Ed. Get that atlas 40 tune. Is that $250??? I just spent $4k at the dealer. I'm in so deep,,,, I don't even know. I need some of that money I don't have to pay back,,, lol.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #726  
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Hey Anthony,

In the 6.0 Bible, page 8, figure 6, it shows that the engine serial number is located on the left rear corner of the crankcase.
Did you find that there was indeed a number there?
Is it marked into the metal or is it a sticker?

In this photo you posted it looks like there is something there.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by run6.0run

 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #727  
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Will the new coolant bottle still turn yellow with the cat elc. I now have 3 coolant bottles. I've changed them out every time I did anything major. Maybe some of you would be interested in some of my extra stuff. I've got lots of parts. Water pumps, fan clutches, my old flywheel n clutch, rocker arms, mufflers n cats, egr cooler welded shut with egr valve and sealed up pipe, two driver side batt covers, front driver door, full serpentine pulley set, front rotors, stock turbo with a broken shaft, new stc fitting, 8 new inj oring kits, vent shade kit for crew cab minus rear pass door, ok ok, I know.... This ain't no swap meet. Lol
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 06:16 PM
  #728  
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Originally Posted by Piolet
Hey Anthony,

In the 6.0 Bible, page 8, figure 6, it shows that the engine serial number is located on the left rear corner of the crankcase.
Did you find that there was indeed a number there?
Is it marked into the metal or is it a sticker?

In this photo you posted it looks like there is something there.

Thanks!



This looked like a sticker


If its stamped then I will see it after its cleaned
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 07:32 PM
  #729  
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It should be stamped. Also if you can pick the walnut shell
would be the better media to clean with. Less removal
of the metal because it's a bit softer and still does the
job. The only time I use glass is on hard ferrous metal.
Did you know that with walnut you can clean and not
destroy it and still clean off paint. I have not used CO2
or soda yet.
If you need a home for the used Cat I could put it to use.
Also looking for a dead or soso fan clutch. That is for the fan override
project I had started.

Sean
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 08:26 PM
  #730  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
Anthony, are you actually going to re-use that front cover? Isn't it grooved from the metal that went through and did a number on the oil pump gears?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 08:31 PM
  #731  
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
Anthony, are you actually going to re-use that front cover? Isn't it grooved from the metal that went through and did a number on the oil pump gears?
Oh crap,,,, um, I didn't figure on replacing that. It's at the shop now,,, if I can, I will get pics of it. I'm not sure how bad it is. If there's ANY scratches, does it need replaced???
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 08:40 PM
  #732  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
Oh crap,,,, um, I didn't figure on replacing that. It's at the shop now,,, if I can, I will get pics of it. I'm not sure how bad it is. If there's ANY scratches, does it need replaced???
Yes, if there's ANY scratches, it pretty well needs to be replaced. Let me put it to you this way. Although I haven't personally had any 6.0s darkening my doorstep with grenaded roller lifters that caused a no-start, many other techs have. What I mean by this, is if the needle bearings (or any other metal parts small enough to pass through the oil pickup) do enough damage to the oil pump gears as well as the front cover to cause a loss in low pressure oil pressure, you will be left on the side of the road.

I guess your situation was that even though you did have failed roller lifters on yours, you were fortunate enough to have been able to continue driving because it hadn't damaged the oil pump enough to the extent that you lost your low pressure oil pressure. I hope I explained it well enough not to confuse you.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 09:09 PM
  #733  
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No. I understand. I wish I could've got an oil pressure number before disassembly. I just hope to have a long time before any more needle bearings wanna travel in my engine. I'm debating. Gonna have to check my wallet,,,

I just looked back at my pics, I didn't look at the oil pump housing. I think the overhaul kit comes with the oil pump cover. I had scrarches in the cover. And the oil pump, Im pretty confident the injector was my immediate issue, what do you think??? the #3 inj hold clamp was finger tight, Dam,,, I wish I would've paid attention to the front cover. Mike you are freaking me out,,,,,, again. Lol. I'm looking right now for a front cover, preferably without any gaskets. If I get one, that would be my atlas 40 money.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 09:15 PM
  #734  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
No. I understand. I wish I could've got an oil pressure number before disassembly. I just hope to have a long time before any more needle bearings wanna travel in my engine. I'm debating. Gonna have to check my wallet,,,

I just looked back at my pics, I didn't look at the oil pump housing. I think the overhaul kit comes with the oil pump cover. I had scrarches in the cover. And the oil pump, Im pretty confident the injector was my immediate issue, what do you think??? the #3 inj hold clamp was finger tight, Dam,,, I wish I would've paid attention to the front cover. Mike you are freaking me out,,,,,, again. Lol. I'm looking right now for a front cover, preferably without any gaskets. If I get one, that would be my atlas 40 money.
If you want to check on the price of a new front cover, I believe the Ford part number for that is 5C3Z-6608-A for 6.0L engines that are 2005 and newer. I'll have to double check on that part number but I'm pretty confident that THAT part number will get you a new front cover assembly with new gerotor gears, the oil pump cover, regulator, front cover to engine block gasket, as well as a new front crank seal with wear ring and T-stat housing o-ring gasket, all in one assembly.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 09:17 PM
  #735  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
Im pretty confident the injector was my immediate issue, what do you think??? the #3 inj hold clamp was finger tight,
Was it YOU who caused that issue by previously replacing that injector and not having it torqued properly by any chance?
 
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