I've got a GOOD hookup with a big Ford dealership (former employer) and they can't beat Tousley's prices.

 

Ok guys,,, PMM really stepped up and, without a doubt, proved that my pistons were in fact new. I was freaked out and was looking for things to complain about. I never wanted to bash on any company, or anyone. After watching this, I believe their engine was great quality. Check it out guys.
http://youtu.be/tCBXxcHbvB0

There were very cool qualities of it that I hated to let go,,, their rocker arm assemblies didn't have any plastic on them. I thought that was nice. They should advertise that there's no plastic on theirs. I would bet that if anyone orders from them, and the customer wants specific things, they will never substitue parts again. Shute, have em put oem gaskets, arp's n ship it back. Well, maybe not on this deal. They did stand up tho. Did you guys see them in diesel power,,,,

 

Their freakin impact took the head nuts off. I want one of those.

 

The bit about the head gaskets being the same and OEM was interesting. I've read a lot of forum and never seen that. Same with the info on the A-1 Headstuds. I haven't heard much on those. I've heard stories of the H-11 studs snapping when trying to torque to ARP specs like 245 I think. I'm glad they were stand up guys to work with no matter what the situation. It's hard to find that these days.

 

If your life was a DVR, would you go back? That show's they are pretty stand up. It was cool that they made a video just for you (us) to prove themselves. ? is, why did they not jump in this thread and prove it?
Either way, that was cool!

 

A-1 uses a different lube than ARP and that is why the specs vary. The standard A-1 17-22 Material Stud which is what was in Anthony's engine only torques to 145 ft.lbs. In our experience the overall design of the A-1's are a bit better, the threads seem to be much smoother and consistent. We have seen ARP's quality vary from time to time as we install roughly 30-40 sets per month between our repair shop and crate engine program.

 

Very great info. We thrive on facts and pick our trucks apart. DVR???? Sure, I would install it. The video shows that they weren't worried at all about the pistons. They were good. The head gasket looked good as well. It was the vr stamp that scared me.

Btw, can you explain the rocker arm clips. Yours are metal, not plastic.

 

I bet a bunch of us would buy them if you would sell them

 

The metal clips are no longer available from Ford. They were only on the very early engines. It's simply luck of the draw what you receive. We do replace the plastic clips though on all Crate Engines with brand spanking new ones if they don't have the metal clips.

 

Well,,, I'm goin to work. Gonna b a bit til the engine gets shortblocked. Big red to the rescue. She's thirsty tho



How thirsty u say

 

Well Anthony, I realize I'm a little late chiming in but I did check the part number I posted for you last night. It IS the correct part number, but has changed up from 5C3Z-6608-A to 5C3Z-6608-B. I'm sure the fine folks at Tousley Ford must've already figured it out for you though.

Nonetheless, watching the Youtube video posted was a very interesting eye opener though, I have to admit. For them to swallow the loss of a significant sale like this, but yet be willing to go to the trouble of posting this video clearly says it all.

Regarding the metal rocker arm pivots, they are correct. The metal pivots were used only in 2003 and early to mid 2004 engines. Just as they are correct that the metal pivots are now obsolete. If I were going this deep into my engine, and could score a set of rocker arms with metal pivots, I would jump on it.

 

Anthony, below are some recommendations for your build.

1. Make sure that the oil squirters are not clogged up this is something that a lot of people overlook but is VERY critical for longevity of the engine.
2. Have the blocks alignment checked on the crankshaft journals, this is one of the biggest issues with these blocks we see. However, it really is the only issue we see with them.
3. Replace your branch tube with a brand new ford oem part. Being that its made it this far on your model is good service. On the 05-up engines we only use new ones as they are proned to break at the welds.
4. Use proper tools for the front and rear seals, if you don't you will be pulling the tranny back out. Make sure the seal you get includes a repair sleeve. I know the Mahle/VR seals are the same as Ford OEM.
5. Don't follow Ford guidelines on head warpage. There specs are too loose. If the heads are warped AT ALL mill them. Whatever you do, don't let a machine shop run them on a belt. The surface after belt is too rough for a MLS gasket to adhere to. The only way to go is a 2 axis mill with a CBN cutter. If you mention a CBN cutter and they don't know what your talking about run far away.

 

I'm gonna print this out. Very cool that you will chime in on this. I'm following most of that. But alignment of the blocks on the crank??? I'm gonna have to ask the shop about that one. I freakin forgot bout the branch tube. I'm sure the shop has the right mill, every tool they have has a computer screen on it. Awesome pointers. Thx Matt. I guess I'm a happy customer that ,,,,,, isn't a customer. Well, at least I got a clutch.
I really am thinking I'm a problem customer. I had similar issues with ranchhand. The bumper on my truck,,,, is my third one. I'm a picky *******,
Box that sucker back up n send it back to me Matt. Lol

 

ok i musta missed something here....why did your engine go back?

 

Don't ask.... Lol. I'm a pita