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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 06:31 PM
  #901  
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Originally Posted by MisterCMK
Same here. I am on man settings.
How do you change the setting?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 06:37 PM
  #902  
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In your cp section. Maybe ya gotta be a "MEMBER".
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 06:45 PM
  #903  
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You don't have to be a member to make changes in your User CP.

Originally Posted by snorindad
How do you change the setting?
Click "Edit Options" in "Your Control Panel", scroll down to "Number of Posts to Show Per Page", click on the drop down and make your selection, then scroll to the bottom of the page and click "Save Changes".
 

Last edited by SteveBricks; Nov 2, 2012 at 06:49 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 06:52 PM
  #904  
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Ok I made that little change and now have 40 pre page.

Sean
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #905  
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snorindad
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Originally Posted by SteveBricks
You don't have to be a member to make changes in your User CP.



Click "Edit Options" in "Your Control Panel", scroll down to "Number of Posts to Show Per Page", click on the drop down and make your selection, then scroll to the bottom of the page and click "Save Changes".
Thanks for the info 40 per page is much better.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 07:53 PM
  #906  
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I did that change about 2 yrs ago, 40 posts per page is the way to go huh Steve B
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 10:05 PM
  #907  
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I see one down side to the 40 per page.
When there is a lot of photos and they
take forever to load. Anyone else have
problems with pages loading slow? Even
with my phone they are slow.
So I can't blame my ISP and the connection.

Sean

Edit : Page count now 23 @ 40 posts per page
 

Last edited by Yahiko; Nov 3, 2012 at 01:41 PM. Reason: EDIT : Page Count
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 10:22 PM
  #908  
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Thx Mike for the reality check n the other thread. In copying it...
Aw man,,, I'm freakin bored,,, I was at a farm n home store at about 6pm tonight,,,, looked over,,,, n there was Bob n his son,,,, the engine builder... I said "are you freakin following me?" Lol. I've been there almost every day, for reasons (picking up parts that come in) and they said my block is bored n honed,,, and back in the cleaner, and my crank is polished, and they are waiting on the valve guides for the heads. They are cool guys. I'm also waiting on the cam to get back. I did get containers to soak the lifters and injectors in oil. Crap, this info should b in our book huh???

I'm heading out n the Pete Sunday to do about 4200 miles. Should b back posting "useful posts" by next weekend. Lol

I can't remember, but are the ends of the bed plate seals visible once the bed plate is installed?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 07:34 AM
  #909  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
I see one down side to the 40 per page.
When there is a lot of photos and they
take forever to load. Anyone else have
problems with pages loading slow?

Sean
Mines just fine but i think when guys quote a thread with pics they could remove the pics before so they dont get repeated every time, just my .02
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 04:29 PM
  #910  
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Are all 4 lifter guides supposed to be the same???
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 05:59 PM
  #911  
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This answer may already exist in here some where, but I'm only on page 18. LOL Trying to catch up guys, but ur posting faster than I can read!!!

You said that you were going to not reinstall the coolant recirculator. It sounds like a good system in theory to keep the #7 and #8 cylinders cooler. I watched the video on "gorilla proofing" on youtube, and that system was part of that.

How easy is that to install, and is it possible to do with the motor in the truck, and why do you believe its not worth reinstalling it? Thanks
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 06:54 PM
  #912  
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Originally Posted by ajsemtb
This answer may already exist in here some where, but I'm only on page 18. LOL Trying to catch up guys, but ur posting faster than I can read!!!

You said that you were going to not reinstall the coolant recirculator. It sounds like a good system in theory to keep the #7 and #8 cylinders cooler. I watched the video on "gorilla proofing" on youtube, and that system was part of that.

How easy is that to install, and is it possible to do with the motor in the truck, and why do you believe its not worth reinstalling it? Thanks
The steel braided lines started leaking on it and it really sux to replace those lines.

And,,, in no way could it, or should it be installed without removing the heads. I would put it back on if I could get steel lines to do it. Or at least do plain old rubber lines. The steel braided isn't all it's cracked up to be,,,
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 07:05 PM
  #913  
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They most likely use the cheep make it look $$ crap.
If you need to have some good lines made it will cost a bit
and you need to know what hose type is compatible with the
coolant. There are a few choices to pick from.
If you want some more info let me know and I can look it up.

Sean
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 07:21 PM
  #914  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
They most likely use the cheep make it look $$ crap.
If you need to have some good lines made it will cost a bit
and you need to know what hose type is compatible with the
coolant. There are a few choices to pick from.
If you want some more info let me know and I can look it up.

Sean
Appreciate the offer. I have no ambitions of pulling my motor anytime soon as it only has 20k on it, and it sounds like that's what would have to happen to do this. BUT I am planning on pulling a 15k 5'r and the last motor #7 was the one that went out and I just want to do all the preventative stuff I can do while the motor is young so I don't have to come crying to you all later with the "I just don't know what happened" post. LOL Ok, not trying to hijack this, thanks for the answers. I'll stay on topic now.

Good on ya for going this far with this build! I almost want to go buy some cheap @$$ broke truck and pull the motor and rebuild it for fun! LOL
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 11:00 PM
  #915  
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Ajsemtb,
Everyone will tell you if you don't already get some gauges and that the
Scan Gauge II does a good job and it is reasonably priced.

Sean
 
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