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The HHO injection thread

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Old May 26, 2008 | 10:19 AM
  #211  
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Dave Sponaugle
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Red positive, blue negative, and the pink line top right is HHO out.


Opps, water main break....gotta go.
 
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Old May 26, 2008 | 11:20 AM
  #212  
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dustan52
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Just suscribing to this thread.

Wanting to start building a unit like smacks but i haven't decided yet.
 
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Old May 26, 2008 | 11:55 AM
  #213  
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Umm, Dave are you OK out there?


All my testing was done in the truck. I simply extended the output hose to reach a 20L pail of water for the volume testing. I used an up side down ice cream bucket to catch the gas. My dad wanted to set it off, I said no.
 
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Old May 26, 2008 | 12:07 PM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by David85
My dad wanted to set it off, I said no.
You should always listen to your elders david
 
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Old May 26, 2008 | 12:55 PM
  #215  
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Marianna2003
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Dave S. from your drawing, it appears you are feeding positive in the end plates and negative into the middle plate. I would suggest applying positive into one end plate and negative into the other end plate. That will give you an eight cell. Use the concentration of electrolyte to adjust the current to 20 amps. Just a thought.
 
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Old May 26, 2008 | 04:19 PM
  #216  
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Hey everybody......Happy Memorial Day by the way! I've been playing in AutoCAD between cooking & playing w/ the kids today and I came up w/ this.........what do you guys think?



This is in place of my rods.......
 
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Old May 26, 2008 | 08:28 PM
  #217  
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Marianna2003
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Instead of using 1/4 spacing between the intermediate plates, you could use a piece of insulating material extended as far out from the edge of the plates as your container will allow. That will minimize the current bypassing the active cells. By the way, Fastenal has 4" long 5/16-18 nylon bolts for $1.65 each. They also have the nylon washers.
 
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Old May 26, 2008 | 09:35 PM
  #218  
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442john
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From: Knoxville, Tn
Thumbs up

Hope it wasn't your water main that broke!!!! Thanks to all who are studing this concept, I'm very interested in this stuff. I am waiting to let the PROS get the right set up so I can make one for my 6.9. I also would like to prove to some sceptics that this really does work. God Bless and keep up the good work guys!!
 
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Old May 26, 2008 | 09:55 PM
  #219  
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Dave Sponaugle
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
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I am back from the water main break, nice way to spend the afternoon on Memorial Day playing in the mud.
We are on call for several of the local public service districts for water line breaks, sewer problems, or anything else that involves moving dirt to fix.
There are a lot of times winter and summer, when the phone rings I gotta go, RIGHT NOW.
Not my water, it was about 12 miles away.


I have 6 more plates, so I intend to add them to what I have now.
1 liter in 45 seconds is not enough gas, I am shooting for well over twice that amount.

I started after I got back, but ran out of nylon shoulder washers that I am using to insulate the plates from the rods.
I cleaned Ace Hardware out the last time I was there, so I am dead in the water till that vendor comes in this week.

Where I am headed with my layout is making enough gas with 1/2 the unit running at low or no boost, then the second stage kicking in at high boost/heavy throttle applications.

So right now, I am only 1/4 of the way to my goal.

Yes, it would have been very easy to apply the voltage to the outside plates only, and I should have tried that before I took everything apart.
But I never thought about that last night before I started taking it apart.
That should have cut the amperage draw in half, probably the production almost in half as well.

twtcad, you may want to look for nylon all thread, the longest thing I could get here in town was 3" by 3/8" nylon bolts.

Right now with 11 plates .125" thick with .125" spaces between them my unit is 2.625" thick.

I just had a thought.
With 8 spaces between two plates 2" x 15" that gives me a total reaction area of 30*16 or 480 sq. in.
1 liter in 45 seconds with that area would equal 1 liter in one minute with 360 sq. in. reaction area.
The smack booster is using 2.75" x 4.5" plates with 8 reaction spaces 12.375*16 totaling 198 sq. in. and makes 1.7 liters in one minute.

So 360 divided by 192 = 1.8181 which means I already have 181.81% more reaction area than a smack booster after reducing my surface area to what would make 1 liter in 1 minute.
Now multiply 1.8181 by 1.7 = 3.09077

The smack booster is 309.077% more effecient than what I have built so far, using less amps.

My test should have produced 3.09 liters of HHO per minute.

I was over 40 amps when I made 1 liter in 45 seconds.
The smack is drawing 16 amps.
So my current draw was 2.5 times what the smack was drawing.

I wonder if that is because my surface area is 2.42 times greater than the smack?

The space created by using the nuts between the plates of the middle cells is reducing the unwanted current flow causing more gas to be produced with less amps.


Major redesign after work tomorrow, I am going with the basic design in your drawing next.
That was going to be my test two, but I can see that test one is not working, so time to move on.

Sorry for rambling, I was thinking while I was typing.
 
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Old May 26, 2008 | 10:16 PM
  #220  
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Dave Sponaugle
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Pro?

I am just an old toothless hillbilly with a computer.

And I guess you don't know what I look like.



Yep, that looks just like a pro to me.

I just have more fun than most people do.
That is my snow plow hat, you know the story about the joker in the snow plow, right?

For you southern members, that is the joker in the plow truck that comes down the street right after you shovel your driveway out and plows it closed again.

I AM HIM, and I wear my joker hat proudly while plowing.
 
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Old May 27, 2008 | 09:53 AM
  #221  
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From: pensacola,fl
QUOTE'''I have 6 more plates, so I intend to add them to what I have now.
1 liter in 45 seconds is not enough gas, I am shooting for well over twice that amount.

How do you measure gas output in liters? wayne
 
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Old May 27, 2008 | 05:15 PM
  #222  
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twtcad
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Well today I completely redesigned my layout in AutoCAD, and this is what we came up with. According to a buddy of mine who is making one also; the voltage between the cells sho
uld be 1.957 Vdc and the target should be between 1.8 & 2.0. Now don't ask me how he came up with this because it is way above my head! If the other smarter guys here are not sure either, then I will get him to explain. But according to this redesign, we should be good to go. He is taking these drawings off to a machine shop buddy of his to get a quote on cutting it up....hopefully a waterjet.

So what do you think? and if anybody wants something similar, just send me your dimensions and I'll draw it up for you. Todd



 
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Old May 27, 2008 | 06:06 PM
  #223  
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David85
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How do you control the voltage between the plates?
 
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Old May 27, 2008 | 06:20 PM
  #224  
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I'm gona say you don't I think we are basicly building a revers battery and voltage between cels has to do with number if cells kinda like how a battery has 6 cells and each is about 2.1v giving 12.6v on a fully functional car battery.
 
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Old May 27, 2008 | 08:02 PM
  #225  
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Marianna2003
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The problem I see is the area of the plates are varying as they go from the centerline. It would be better to keep the plates the same size and wrap them with an insulating material so current cannot bypass the working area between the plates. That's why SMACK has a nut between Alternating plates, to minimize current bleeding past the active part of the cells. Any current that is flowing past an active cell is going to make heat which is wasted. I have 28 plates with 7 active cells with plastic in between the paired plates that extends to the wall of my container (4" sch40 plastic pipe). It also extends almost to the bottom. I finally found Some 100% Sodium Hydroxide at Lowes. So tomorrow I'll try it again. DRAINO made a green gunky foam when it first started it. Used it to take care of an unwanted bush. The NaOH will combine with CO2 from the air to make sodium carbonate.
 
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