No doubt it will be worlds ceaper than the off the shelf one and at this point sounds like you will hav a much beter product.

You also may consider adding a relay that oppens when the glowplugs are on in line after relayT to preven hydrogen from getting injected during the after glow period. Oh but I think I recall you have a manual swich for your plugs. But this would sill aply to outhers who have the factory glow plug system.

 

Have you had a chance to find a place in the engine compartment for your system? It sounds fairly compact, but I just spent some time on my truck and as I look under the hood it's already pretty crowded.

Have you planned anything as "Splash Control" for the liquid solution?

Are you planning any venting for the electrolyser housing?

Will you pump the HHO or will you rely on engine vacuum?

Lots of questions but the more time I spend thinking about my own system the more I wonder "What Would Dave Do" (WWDD).

 

Splash control is son\mething I have been rolling around in my head, so far the fartherest I have gotten on this is a HHO feed being located at the center of the generator.
That by location alone will help with off road leans and acceleration and decelleration
getting the solution close to the intake tubes.

I think vacuum will be enough to get the gas to the intake.

And no vent on the generator housing.


On a side note, Mythbusters did a segment on mileage increasers today.
The magnets, acetone and super mileage carb were all busted on gasoline engines.
Magnets did nothing.
Acetone decreased the MPG slightly.
The super carb actually cut the MPG to about 30% of what the stock carb was capable of.

Then they moved on to HHO.
The generator they made was almost bubbling gas, which they tried to run the engine off of, which it did not do.
Then in true Mythbusters fashion, they used compressed hydrogen in bottles, which the engine did run off of.
I can safely say that gas production was in the ml range per minute, nowhere close to the 2 liters per minute that the production units I have looked at were producing.
But since the engine did not run, the HHO myth was busted.

As a last test, thay had a Mercades Diesel that they ran on WVO.
Power was close, and the MPG took about a 20% hit, but since the WVO was free the WVO was confirmed.


I picked up some stainless all thread yesterday at Ace Hardware and also found some nice nylon washers with sholders to use as insulators when the rod has to pass through a plate with no electrical connection.

So far with everything I have on my truck, it is looking like I will have to frame mount the generator.
That is fine with me, that means more vertical height from the generator to the intake.
And more vertical height means less likelyhood that water will make it to the engine.

Final note on my weekend studies, Reward Walls looks like a better product than Logix, but they are close.
Both have a big advantage over stick built, but the advantage would be a payback down the road since the initial cost is higher.

 

One simple splash control that I have seen is built like a sandwich. Two perforated plastic sheets with plastic woven material in the middle of the sandwich. For the "Woven Plastic" they used the cheap plastic scrubbers that you would find at Wal-Mart for the kitchen sink.
I don't have enough experience with KHO solutions to know if they would hold up and I sure wouldn't want to have to clean up the kind of goo that would be left behind if they melted. Testing required here.
If it works, it would be hard to beat for cost and simplicity of construction.

Good idea about mounting below the intake. I'm still thinking in terms of a cylindrical design. Probably a 5" diameter pipe with vertical tubes inside it. Figure out a way to mount the whole mess below the driver side battery then plumb into the snorkel. I'll try to post a jpg of my tube plan. If it shows up I'd be interested in your feedback.

 

all right guys, been a LONG time since I posted, this caught my eye. one, I think your WAY over enginering it. two, I have personaly installed a comercialy available unit on a large truck.

a buddy of mine ordered the $1200 Hydrogen kit from somewhere, I dont know where. we put it on his '89 volvo semi, 60 series Detroit 450HP. it was NOT worth $1200, you could make one, it was kinda cheesy. if it was only $500 I would have bought one.

as for the 60 series Detroit, it made a rather noticeable improvement in power, towing 80,000 lbs into a head wind the old truck barely would do 75mph, it easily will hold 85+ now I have drove it both before and after so I experianced it first hand. economy wise, we got none since we just drove it faster and harder, used the extra power for just that . his also had to use distilled water and the company sent with a bottle of electrolite powder.

now for the interals, its is an 8" steel pipe with a plastic liner, 18" tall. two SS rods to a SS ribbing coiled inside on bottom. 1" hole drilled in top to fill, has a small rubber stopper for a plug to prevent excess pressure inside reactor. there is a thermal switch on the top, opens at 150º the kit came with an Amp gauge and a solinoid, which has since burned up three times, need to find something with a better amp rating. wired up toggle switch inside cab to a keyed power source, wired to thermal switch wired to solinoid. wire off alternator to amp gauge in cab, in series with the wire to the electrods. solinoid after amp gauge on the side of reactor. mounted reactor drivers side of engine lower then the air cleaner. clear plastic hose run to dirty side of intake in case of an engine backfire air cleaner will stop it from getting to HHO hose. instuctions said 30 amps is ideal. we called the guy and he said you can leave it on/running when idling, also said you vary the amp draw by adding electrolite powder until your at 30 amps.. when we first got it going we made a run from Minot to Minneapolis, 8 hours and a few stops later we never shut it off, even when idleing at the truck stop. you can see the water bubbling and like I said there was a rather noticeable power difference, its not instant though like nitrous or water injection.

so rememer this when building a boost activated system the water needs to heat up before it starts producing gas, so with a boost activated system you will be out of the boost range before the extra gas is produced. I cant think of anymore stuff, he lives near Minot if anyone is interested. PM me I can get some pics, maybe, he is 8 hours from me.

ok long enough.

Diesel Rod
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So you watch that show too? They won me over when they vaporized the cement truck, Oh man, what a wonderful sound...........what was that myth about anyway, not that I cared!

I didn't catch all of the episode you are referring to, and didn't see the HHO test. Do remember the WVO in the old (unmodified) 300D though, nice car.

I have also figured on frame mounting with my setup too, if I ever get the chance to mount it. Was thinking out board of the frame under the cab.

As for using vacuum to get the gas out, don't bother. The gas production will create a positive pressure in the generator that will force the gas out. My small generator proved to me what others have said on that note. I've heard that it can build up to 30 PSI, but havent confirmed this.


Edit: 444dieselford: thanks for posting that! I was not aware that heat was part of the workings of the system. And thanks for sharing your experience with the off the shelf system.

 

Newr are you saying you are going to put the positive tubes inside the negative tubes? How would water get there and how would gass get out or am I miss undestanding your diagram?

I also agree that Dave S.s boost control system wont get extra browns gass right when the added stages are activated but he probly has thought of that. If the stage come on at a slightly lower level then it will be there when it gets to the level he wants it at IMO.

David85 did you use a plate design like Dave S.?

 

Good input from 444dieselrod, hard to beat first hand knowladge. But if the unit your buddy bought was cheap and cheesy, and we are over engineering, what would you do different in both cases?
For my part I only want to buld this once so I'm building for durability on the road. It sounds to me like Dave has a pretty good handle on controlling the staging in his design and I doubt if either of our designs is going to hit the $500 mark.
Where are going to far?

 

No, I used some stainless pipe that we had lying around. one 3" surrounding a 2 1/8" pipe abour 16" long. It seemed to work, but never had the time to truly test it on the road. Had fun with my Dad putting it together one sunday afternoon when we had some time to spare, but other matters took priority and its sitting in storage at the moment.

 

Yup, the tubes would be welded to a base plate and then fully submerged in solution. The positive base plate will sit below the negative, separated by plastic spacers. At the top the splash control sandwich will trap the tops of the tubes to keep them stationary.

I haven't done any section views yet, that's usually when you find out how much trouble your in.

 

So the water gose between the two pipe then.

 

cheesy was maybe not the right word. he just paid WAY WAY to much for it, $1200 is very hard to justifiy.

I think the boost controlled/multi stage is a bit much, but then again I live where the longest hill is 1/4 long and its maybe a 5% grade......

also forgot that the output hose is right in the middle of the top plate and we have never seen any water in the output hose. also if your feeding it into the stock air box if you feed it onto the front or side the water IF it ever got that far should flow to the bottom of the air box and avaoid the air filter, that and most stock air filters are hydrophobic.

also the instructions said to only fill half to 2/3 full. never more then 3/4 full of water.

Diesel Rod

 

Correct.


444dieselrod, I thank you again. I filled my test generator to the top when I tried it, so thats strike two against my setup.....I might get it to work afterall.

 

I am gunna call him tomorrow and ask were he got it and how he heard about it, he is so far out in the bonedocks of ND he doesnt even have a computer much less the internet......

Diesel Rod

 

The setup Mythbusters tested was two stainless looking pipes used as electrodes inside a clear arcrylic tube for the housing.
Just estimating it looked like 1/4" between the stainless pipes, largest was probably 3" and the inner was probably a 2.5" pipe.
When it was fired up there was almost no bubbling of gas visible.

What I don't like about the pipe thing is the gas is trapped between the tubes untill it gets to the top.
Who knows, I may wind up with way to much gas if that is possible.
But if it is making to much, I guess I can always reduce the electrolyte concentration and reduce the output.

A cruise down the interstate has my boost gauge usually between 5 and 15 PSI at 70 MPH, so getting everything kicked in should be no problem.

The HHO test was a matter of minutes before they started the WVO test in the 300D, I think there was a commercial break between them.