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I don't see why not I once fixed a crank shaft with good old JB weld.
This maybe a dumb question and I'm sorry if it is........JB Weld will conduct the current correct? I tried to solder a wire to a rod and no joy, I even drilled out the rod about a 1/4" to insert the wire and then solder.....could not get it to stick with my 30watt iron. I know JB Weld will hold it, I just want to make sure it will pass the current along......If so, I will remake my template in CAD with the rods an 1/8" apart. I might even add two more rods........
Use a butane or propane torch if you want to solder a rod of that size. Stainless steel should solder nicely, but you need to get the parent material up in temperature before it will work.
Use rosin core solder and a propane torch like David85 said. If it doesn't want to stick to the rod with rosin core solder, use some acid flux like soldering copper plumbing pipe to tin the rod. Clean all of the acid off. Then use rosin core solder to connect the wire. You may want to use some liquid electrical tape to seal the copper from the Electrolyte. It may corrode the copper.
QUOTE/You can use nearly any metal for electrodes, but steel will rust away very quickly and leave a big mess to clean up when its done. SS is expensive, but not too bad if you use something like Tig rod from a wielding supply. Sheet is ideal because it has the highest surface area, and that makes the generator more efficient allowing you to use less electrolyte (in this case baking soda
Why not use copper wire,its a great conducter a easier to work with than stainless is,my choice anyway and how would hydrogen perioxide work as an additive to the water,maybe it would release hho easier?,,wayne
OK.....Thank You for all the responses, after looking at JB Welds web site I found:
Q: Will J-B Weld conduct electricity?
A: No. J-B Weld is not considered to be a conductor. It is an insulator.
I had not tried the butane torch yet, I think I will before I scrap the idea. (I just happen to have one) But it's going to have to wait a few hours as my 10yr. old son fell and hurt his leg pretty bad. So I'm taking him to the hospital in a few minutes to get an x-ray........fun.........But I really want to get this put together, so when I get back I'll try attaching the wire again with torch........
wayne.......I know the steel will not last long, but it's cheap and I want to see how it does. If it works, then I will change out the steel rods for SS. Steel = <$3.00 ea. local and SS = >$12.00 ea. + shipping unless I can find it local. Right now with nuts as attachments I have 12 - 18" pieces. If I can get the wires attached w/o nuts I can get this closer and I may add more rods or just tighten the circle......not sure. I already have about $100.00 invested in this project!
I just recently saw a commercially made unit that used stainless wire [Mcmaster], one spiral inside of another. I don't know much abt. this but as soon as he hit the key there was lots of bubbles.
Another thing I noticed was it was fed by #14 wire, telling me the amperage draw could not have been too high.
He did not have the electronics hooked up yet so any mileage improvement was not available.
It was the size of a small/medium size mason jar and as I understood they just gang more together for a larger engine.
That sounds like it maybe the Water4Gas.com system, they use a mason jar w/ ss wire/cable. A buddy of mine bought the .pdf plans for that system and he's trying to get all the parts together to make it. I've got it and I didn't like the idea of having a glass jar under my hood and w/ a 7.3l I'd need a few of them.
QUOTE/You can use nearly any metal for electrodes, but steel will rust away very quickly and leave a big mess to clean up when its done. SS is expensive, but not too bad if you use something like Tig rod from a wielding supply. Sheet is ideal because it has the highest surface area, and that makes the generator more efficient allowing you to use less electrolyte (in this case baking soda
Why not use copper wire,its a great conducter a easier to work with than stainless is,my choice anyway and how would hydrogen perioxide work as an additive to the water,maybe it would release hho easier?,,wayne
Using copper as the electrodes is not a good idea because copper is not as stable as stainless steel and will corrode away fairly quickly. Your electrolyte will turn green pretty quick too (or so I've been told).
Has anyone used the Smack booster? http://www.smacksboosters.110mb.com/
He seems to have really done a lot research and all of his info and plans are FREE.
First.......I'm back from the ER and good news, my son did not break his leg! Yeah....but no school for two days and no PE for two weeks, but hey he should be healed for summer vacation.....LOL
OK.....I just tried to solder the #10 wire to my steel 5/16" rod with a 1/4" deep hole drilled in the center of the end for the wire to go into and the flux/rosin core solder w/ butane torch did the trick. So now I'm shrinking my circle down to 1/16-1/8" clearance between rods. I'll be cutting, drilling and soldering them up now. Maybe I'll get to bench test this this evening.........
Still,what about hydrogen peroxide,its cheap at wal-mart or anywhere.
It looks to me like it would free up the hyrogen atoms at a very low amperage,,any thoughts....I'm building mine with a cleanout plug in the bottom for a crude trap,,wayne