The smack booster says 1.7 liters per minute, but I don't know anyone running one of them.

Parkland noted increased MPG with his, but I never saw a production number for his unit.
His was made with a five gallon pail and lots of coat hanger wire for electrodes.

So far I have not read any hard numbers on how much does what, and I have been reading a lot of different pages on HHO generators.
Wait, I did read one page that had hard numbers on a John Deere inline motor, which did show power and MPG increase, but no numbers on how much HHO was used.

So I guess the jury is still out on the actual numbers.

 

1.7 liters per minute. I guess I'm not far from that considering I'm still using baking soda (very old baking soda). If time permits I'll be looking for some KOH this week, right now its time for some road testing to see if this makes any power difference when its turned on. I ran the engine at idle and nothing happened, just ran as usual.

 

If you have an Ace near by try this or maybe a different hardware store...... In the drain cleaner section, "Rooto Household Drain Cleaner" "100% lye" right on the front. Lye is the common name for sodium hydroxide, which is named on the back label. 1 pound for 3.49

Good luck with the road test.....can't wait to hear your results!

 

Dave85.....what did you make your generator out of? Any pics?

 

No Ace hardware here, and all the hardware stores that we have are closed on sunday.

Is there any advantage or disadvantage in using sodium hydroxide over potassium hydroxide? Some times they can get sticky about hazzardous chemicals. I bought some ant killer powder last year and they asked for ID, asked if I used it before and brought some one up to the front to give me a safety warning. Good grief, if only they knew what we were up to! Having several potential sources for electrolyte will be good in case some doesn't want to sell it to me.

I'll post back later with some pictures, but its made out of similar plumbing components like yours (I used ABS). The internals are completely different. Everything is SS, and I used a 3" SS pipe as a liner for the plastic pipe (-electrode), than there is a 2" pipe inside that for the positive electrode. Its about the size of a coffee thermos.

I've installed a relay on the inner fender to power the generator and all I need to do now is route a switch to the cab and I'm ready for a road test.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...esel-e350.html

 

Well it didn't run worse.

There is a 10% hill just out of city limits that I use as the standard test for any major mod or just to see the power output of a vehicle.

With the latest tuning I did, the truck will hold steady at 110kph (67MPH) at the steepest portion at max power.

To fit the intalke line into the airbox, I removed the ram intake and simply placed the end of the HHO line in as far as I could (not the best test I know). It was also rather hot today, and the EGTs approached 900 during the test.

I can't really say for sure what difference the higher ambient temperature and removing the ram intake would have otherwise had. Ideally, I would have done a test run without the HHO and ram intake to get a baseline, but this was as much time as I could spare.

I also noticed that the amp gauge in the truck would almost pegg when I turned the unit on. I have a feeling that I was running too strong an electrolyte.

For now, I have removed the HHO generator, but I could easily install it again when I have more time. But I have other work that is more pressing for now.

Here is what I was working with:





The inside threads into the outside case for easy teardown and mods or repairs. I don't know what grade the stainless steel is, but it seems to be holding up so far.

All things considered, I think we are a step ahead.

 

Well my preliminary test one is done.

Mine is constructed in a piece of 6" PVC pipe about 2' long.

This is a drawing of the setup, short plates are 15" long, the two outside plates are 16.5" long and the center plate is 17.75" long.



1.5 gallons of water, 4 teaspoons of sodium hydroxide.

The initial start up amps were sitting right on 30 amps and the first liter of HHO took 1 minute 7 seconds.

After about 10 minutes with the generator running I tried a second liter, 1 minute with the amps still setting on 30.

After about 30 minutes running, the amps started to increase to about 40 amps, 1 liter in 45 seconds.

 

Nicely done Dave.

I can see that there will be a startup time with these things. Next time I do this I will be very light on the electrolyte and see where the continuous output figures settle (temp amps, and gas production).

You also have a higher efficiency than me, and I think that is largely due to the electrolyte used.

Well, one part of what we we have been told seems to be true. It is indeed possible to get 1.7L per minute.

Now the real question is, what will the gains be?

So Dave, did yours get warm at all? Mine was getting to the point that some of the wires were uncomfortable to touch.

 

Forgive me, just subscribing and commenting that this is a fantastic and interesting thread

Keep up the good work!

 

Oh no, that Australian, soon to be Kalifornian is liking this thread, we are all in trouble now.

Hi Adrian.

When the amps started to climb, the generator was getting warm to the touch.
As mine is set up right now, I have 240 sq. in. of reaction area between the plates.
And even though 6 of the 9 plates have no electrical connection, they all are producing gas at an even pace.
Or that was my opinion after watching it cook from the top for a while.

I think tomorrow morning I am going to take it apart and add two more plates to each side, but keep the basic layout like I have it now.
As it is set up, I have 3.4 volts between each adjoining plate.
Adding two more plates to each side would drop the voltage to 2.26 volts, which I believe will help keep the temperature from climbing.

If that don't work, I do have enough stainless strap to change to a design more like the smack booster whick will look like this.



Since my alternator is keeping the battery voltage level at 13.6 volts even with the generator running when it is drawing 40 amps, at this point in time I am not sure if the voltage is to high making the unit get hot or if the unwanted current paths are causing the heat.

I did get a kick out of reading that link at the top of the page, the unit that he was using is listed at 6.5 liters per minute HHO, all from a unit that is 4" x 10 " in size.

Did you know hydrogen boils at 192.7 degrees F?
Never seen a gas boil before.
I also liked the 1 teaspoon of KOH per quart of water, I used 4 teaspoons of NaOH to six quarts and was drawing to many amps in a very short amount of time.

But after reading that article, I hope I can get to 6.5 liters per minute production, I would be tickled if I can double the MPG I am getting now.

9.8 to 19.6 MPG with a Power Stroke E 350.

 

I was wondering what a big admin is doing on our humble little forum

I would be more inclined to believe what we can produce here, as opposed to what some one puts on wikipedia. They lost me when they explained "this is not our van but it looks a lot like it", uhu, sure so where is YOUR van? I have heard complaints about poor MPG from powerstrokes but for only 10 MPG something must have been wrong same for the lack of power at 70 MPH (if the story ie even true).

I must say I agree with Adrian, this is turning out to be a nasty case of FTE addiction. Somehow I have to set aside time for more testing this week.


Yes, my generator was getting warm, but the 10ga wires seemed to be unable to cope and those were the parts that got the hottest.

 

How many amps were you drawing?

I had a 10 AWG on the positive and a 12 AWG on the negative, the wire did not get hot even at a bit over 40 amps draw.

The sides of the generator were getting warm, not really hot though.

 

First run started at 25 amps and ramped up to 32.

The second run started at 30 amps and ended at 35.

In both cases it was not running for very long, and I shut it down before the wires got too hot. I'll have to do a longer run next time to properly dial it in.

For the road test, all I had to go by was the amp gauge in the truck. It seems to pegg at 60 amps, (or at least thats my best guess) so I figure it was drawing up to 55 amps during the road test.

The more I think about it, the more I think I had too much baking soda in it.

The wires didn't burn or anything, but still got pretty warm.

 

Great stuff Dave and David! My unit did not get hot to the touch at all, not even running for an hour but then again I didn't get the amps up that high either. Before I take apart my unit I will try the "Lye" and get the amps up around 20 and see what I get. Also all my recent test were hooked up to a battery and a charger supplying 12amp to the battery to keep it charged. I think my next one will be connected to the truck.....maybe the charger is doing something strange to the equation. Are you guys only testing on the truck?

Dave....where do you have the electrical connections on your drawing?