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The HHO injection thread

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Old May 15, 2008 | 06:29 AM
  #106  
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jonwayneking
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as i wrote in an earlier post you will need to build more than one smack booster for large engines. HHO makes diesel burn more efficient. Larger Semi Trucks are reporting up to 20 or more percent increased fuel economy. HHO is 4 times explosive as Hydrogen. here is a full link to alternative fuels.

Panacea University
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 11:27 AM
  #107  
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Has anyone tried to make one out of all thread yet? I've been reading about this for months now and I'm ready to make one this weekend.....I've been thinking all along about threaded rod because it seemed easier. But I laid the diagram out in Autocad last night and realized with 5/16" rod and the nuts to hold it in place the closest I can get them together is 1/4" and that does not seam close enough. Has anybody made one with the metals 1/4" apart and worked? If not I'll post pics after I'm done......basically I'm using 3" pvc, I'll have 12 - 16"x5/16" rod 6+ & 6-. They will be laying horizontally in a
3" pvc 2 way cleanout tee and then roughly 12" of pvc vertical above for the extra water. I'll post pics whether it works or not and if it works I'll post drawings of the layout.

Side note Dave, I've never heard of the ICF wall system your talking about but hear in Florida we use them a lot. I'm a Designer/Drafter for Residential and Light Commercial and I get asked about Polysteel, but I came across a new one this week call Integraspec and it looks interesting. I have a client in St. Augustine on the beach who wants to build his house out of it. If I was in the market to build not, it would only be an ICF system!
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 12:41 PM
  #108  
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1/4 inch should still work it might not be the most eficiant design but will be simple. also are you able to find stainless steel allthread? If you use just normal allthread it will corode very quicly.
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 01:00 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by George D.
1/4 inch should still work it might not be the most eficiant design but will be simple. also are you able to find stainless steel allthread? If you use just normal allthread it will corode very quickly.
Thanks George....Once I get it built I will see how long it takes to fill a 2 liter bottle, hopefully quickly......LOL I did not look to hard for stainless all-thread yet because of cost......I got plated all-thread from Lowe's and it was pretty cheap. If it goes quickly then I'll invest in the SS. First I've got to see if the concept will work. If it doesn't then I think I'll try the SS cover plates idea unless I can find some scrap stainless like Dave has gotten. But I like the layout of my concept in theory anyways. It will fit very well between the grill and radiator so it will get a lot of airflow to help cool it.....we'll see. I should be testing it tomorrow. Today is mostly honeydoooooooo's.................
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 01:05 PM
  #110  
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How about drilling and threading a piece of plastic to hold your rods in position?
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 01:31 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by Marianna2003
How about drilling and threading a piece of plastic to hold your rods in position?
TWTCAD you might want to go with this idea that was my orignial concept as well but was abondoned in favor of plates wich was abandond in favor of eating and living indoors, not that it is super expensive but I'm broke at the moment.
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 01:32 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Marianna2003
How about drilling and threading a piece of plastic to hold your rods in position?
I am using plastic spacers drilled to separate the all-tread, but where I'm connecting the wires I need to use nuts to secure the electrical connection and with the nuts I can only get so close together.
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 01:40 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by George D.
TWTCAD you might want to go with this idea that was my orignial concept as well but was abondoned in favor of plates wich was abandond in favor of eating and living indoors, not that it is super expensive but I'm broke at the moment.
Sorry George....I forgot your initial thought was to use all-thread. Sorry to hear about being broke, I can sympathize.....but I'm looking at this as a little investment to hopefully get my 14mpg beast to 20+.
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 02:10 PM
  #114  
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Sorry.....I was going to post a pic of my all-thread layout, but it did not work.....I have to figure out how to post attachments here.......
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 02:18 PM
  #115  
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Just add the picture to your gallery then click forum codes then copy and paste. to get the rods closer together you could get some cable ends for what ever gage wire is close to 5/16 then tap them and thread them on to the end of the rod then bolt the wire to the eyellet.
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 02:35 PM
  #116  
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How's this:


Cable ends??? I'll have to look for those, if it will allow me to get the rods closer I'll try them.
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 03:12 PM
  #117  
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Fastenal has 5/16 SS rod $12.26 for 3 feet. 1/4 inch is $6.70 for 3 feet.
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 04:14 PM
  #118  
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Yeah like on a starter cable.
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 04:21 PM
  #119  
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Thank You Marianna......if this works and the rods I have do not last long enough I will definitely look at those.

George.....now I know what you mean and I think cable ends will be too big, I have regular electrical connectors for #10 wire. But the problem is the nuts to hold them on requires me to keep the rods 1/4" apart, unless I can solder to wire to the rods and just epoxy them into place.........do you think that could work?
 
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Old May 17, 2008 | 05:33 PM
  #120  
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I don't see why not I once fixed a crank shaft with good old JB weld.
 
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