There is nothing wrong with your tuner.
If it said "needs update" and displayed the engine and tranny files, this means the particular flash Ford has in your truck isn't in the current 1704 database.
(Ford comes up with new flashes almost daily). This is NOT a fault with the tuner....it's simply retrieving your new files so we can tune them for you.
That's the beauty of computer code-specific tuning....it's for YOUR codes.

The tuner has stored your stock files and when the tuner comes in I will build/test tuned files for your stock files.
When you get the tuner back, it will work =o)

I greatly apologize if you did not have a good experience on the phone.
I will make sure the tuner is updated and sent back to you asap.

 

On the 04 trucks, the Economy mode feels a little closer to the perf than it does on the 03 trucks. (Basically, the powerband on the Econ mode is a bit longer in 04 than it is in 03. This is due to differences in the stock tuning strategies.

The Perf is definitely stronger on all counts, though.
When you're making that much extra power already (econ), another 30 horses may seem minor.

 

Vic, Thanks for the quick reply. Did not think about only 30 extra. That makes sence to me. But the gains over stock are big. Great Job.
Thanks again
Sonic

 

Couple of questions for those in the know, or at least more so than me. For people doing the 1/4 mile in 4 wheel drive... do you shift manually at all or just leave it in drive? Also, would it be unwise to do a burnout in 4 wheel without the hubs being locked in? Is it possible to do a burnout just using the 4 wheel drive selector switch or would that be a bit too much to expect of the equipment involved?

 

This is my opinion (if you are going to do this to your vehicle; I can not condone this behaviour)

In the box:
Burnout in 2WD, away from the bleach (do it in the bleach/water only if using drag radials or ET streets).

Do not lock hubs.

At the tree:
Select 4 wheel HIGH, load brake to 2000-2500 RPM (whatever brings you right to the limit of traction), wait for the tree, then sidestep the brake.

Do not manually shift...just hold it at WOT until the end.

disclaimer:
Anyone doing this does so at their own (and their vehicles own ) risk.
I haven't seen anything break yet, but if it does......you did it, not me

 

Do not lock hubs.








...................hmmmmmmmm

 

Before heading to the track I did a number of practice starts on a vacant dead end street not too far from my house. These were practice launches only and not practice runs - I let off after reaching 30 MPH or so.

Pretty much as Vic described above.

What I found was that the 2000 RPM range seemed to work for me. I didn't do any pre burnouts in 2WD. I just selected 4 high from the switch and waited for the light to come on.

I pressed the brake, then the gas, and kept pressing both harder and harder until I had desired revs and boost and then let go of the brake and mashed the gas to the floor.

The result on the virgin asphalt was four black patches roughly the length of the truck. At the track where there was already rubber laid down, I don't think that I had all that much wheel spin.

My routine at the track was to turn into the lane in 2WD and then back up to near the burnout box - but not into it. I then switched into 4WD and waited for the light to come on. I rolled forward a few feet to give the hubs a chance to be well and truely locked and then did a mini launch to clean the tires and insure that the truck was ready for the real launch.

Worked for me as posted on Saturday afternoon.

Daryl


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Oh, and it won't help to shift out of 4WD back to 2WD after the launch because the transfer case and hubs won't disengage under load. But it will help you make the turn off the track and down onto pit lane ;-)

 

Holy smoke there goes our band width

 

Daryl,
LOL, & somehow I knew you were from California! You must be a keyboard wizard...........
John Russell

 

NO wonder I was having so many problems connecting earlier

 

After reading that... I know there is NO coffee in California...anywhere

 

Just had to get my free post in here...

Got my SCMT 1704 today and so far I LOVE IT!!!>..

Definate SOTP difference...we will see what it does to my mileage but either way this was hand down the best bang for the buck mod Ive done to any of my vehicles...

Interesting observation though... I dont know about everyone else>>I have not read every single post in this thread so forgive me*** but My truck seems to run a lot smoother with the SCMT tune versus the stock tune... My stock tune did not run badly...My MPG has always been pretty good compared to others 18+ hand calculation not lie o meter.. But it seems even in high performance mode my truck idles quieter and seems to be smoother than it was before... Great product...ope to have some track times next week.. Thumbs up to vic and the others who programmed this thing..

 

OK, twice now in the last couple of weeks I have almost bought the SCMT, but I am still deciding which to buy. Reading the last couple pages of post now has me wondering. I have an March 04 truck with a February 04 engine. If I buy a tuner now and sometime in the future my truck gets a newer flash, will I have to send the tuner back in for an upgrade for it to work with the newer flash?