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I already figured out what I going to do. I'll go with JB weld's Kwik Weld that cures in 6 minutes. Has a tensile strength of 3127 PSI. I'll use either PB Blaster as a lube or that Carwell Products oil that I have in a can. That will prevent the epoxy from sticking to the bolt.
Thanks for the tips; because I'd probably fill the damn hole. I'll use a tooth pick.
Last edited by Overkill2; Jun 30, 2022 at 01:38 PM.
Reason: Add to my comments
Found Blackstone's email when I got home from work today. It contains the Virgin sample and the 6R140 sample. So far I don't see the transfer case sample but will post up when I get it.
I didn't realize that I replaced the oil with only 24.5k miles Or else I would have waited until 30k miles. I had the mileage written down but don't have all the info in one place or rather notebook as I should.
I'm definitely going out to at least 40k miles this run of Mercon LV fluid for the transfer case.
I'm truly seeing how I can get more life out of the fluid in the case. I just thought because it's not a lot of fluid, just over 2 quarts, that it would be good to change it when I did the transmission.
I know it is not the same transfer case or fluid but I have drained transfer cases on ranch trucks with 200,00 plus miles on them most likely the original fluid and they spend most of their life in 4 WD. out of the fleet of about 50 obs trucks, 99 to 04 trucks, a few 12 valve and a few 24 valve comeaparts I have never had to repair or replace a transfer case for them. so for me the transfer case is a low maintenance item. I literally try to remember to lock the hubs on my '19 once a year just to make stuff move. "she is a queen and doesn't come out of the garage in bad weather"
I know it is not the same transfer case or fluid but I have drained transfer cases on ranch trucks with 200,00 plus miles on them most likely the original fluid and they spend most of their life in 4 WD. out of the fleet of about 50 obs trucks, 99 to 04 trucks, a few 12 valve and a few 24 valve comeaparts I have never had to repair or replace a transfer case for them. so for me the transfer case is a low maintenance item. I literally try to remember to lock the hubs on my '19 once a year just to make stuff move. "she is a queen and doesn't come out of the garage in bad weather"
Yeah I'm seeing that now... I just thought that since it always turns whether in 2wd or not, it would be good cheap maintenance to change it. I'll still change it for schitts and giggles, but not at what I have been.
I change mine occasionally, normally forget about it though. My wife and I have 6 licensed and insured vehicles so none of them get many miles a year. June is my oil change month for everything except the 2001 jeep, it gets changed by mileage.
I just changed my oil and collected a sample to send to Blackstone! I can't wait to see what it says... this is my second analysis, and the first one coming from MC 10W30 to Rotella T6 5W40. Also... I got lucky... I am away from home for a while, and before we left I grabbed enough stuff for an oil change... turns out, I only grabbed 2 gallon jugs and 1 quart instead of 3 gallon jugs! I just realized it yesterday... I knew I was going to have a tough time finding another gallon of T6, but turns out an Advanced Auto Parts about 30 miles from me had some, so I stopped and grabbed a gallon! I have enough for 1 more oil change at home... I guess I need to stock up a little more now...
I'm definitely going out to at least 40k miles this run of Mercon LV fluid for the transfer case.
I'm truly seeing how I can get more life out of the fluid in the case. I just thought because it's not a lot of fluid, just over 2 quarts, that it would be good to change it when I did the transmission.
Seeing a very minimal viscosity loss in your oil analysis, a 40k drain interval is a walk in the park for your transmission too
Nobody sells this stuff locally, I've been calling, and the reviews on Amazon, the most recent ones, have not been good because it sounds like the kits being sold are old as eff.
Not a lot of options on Amazon either. They want 50 to 60 bucks for these kits. I'm thinking it's no longer made and its NOS.
I'm going to look into Permatex. But I can always get a heli coil kit cheaper than what Amazon wants for a Loctite kit. It just doesn't seem to be out there which would mean to me it's no longer made.
What threads are you trying to repair? I tried to find it but this is the Overkill thread LOL. Have you thought of a riv nut? They make all sizes. I have aluminum and steal ones. I have use then with great success.
Seeing a very minimal viscosity loss in your oil analysis, a 40k drain interval is a walk in the park for your transmission too
Yeah that's what I'm thinking Troy... thanks.
Originally Posted by The Bone
What threads are you trying to repair? I tried to find it but this is the Overkill thread LOL. Have you thought of a riv nut? They make all sizes. I have aluminum and steal ones. I have use then with great success.
The threaded insert for the Mass air sensor mount in my S&B intake air tube to the turbo. They are sending a replacement tube with hardware but I want to fix this one to have as a spare.
And yes... yes it is the OVERKILL thread...
EDIT...
I'll post a pic.
Originally Posted by speakerfritz
not sure if these links are bogus, they add to cart.
A riv nut would work super in that tube.
Check this out. I have a assortment of different sizes. Yhey have 2 different ones. Blind which go in where the hole doesn't go through the metal and the ones in the picture that have a shoulder to stop it from falling through the metal. They are super easy and I have had great luck with them. No bonding no mixing just drill out the hole and insert the rivnut. I have a special tool that I use. https://www.rivetnutusa.com/rivnut-rivet-nut/
Here is the kind of tool I have
A riv nut would work super in that tube.
Check this out. I have a assortment of different sizes. Yhey have 2 different ones. Blind which go in where the hole doesn't go through the metal and the ones in the picture that have a shoulder to stop it from falling through the metal. They are super easy and I have had great luck with them. No bonding no mixing just drill out the hole and insert the rivnut. I have a special tool that I use. https://www.rivetnutusa.com/rivnut-rivet-nut/
Here is the kind of tool I have https://www.amazon.com/NEXTACK-Assor...6719887&sr=8-7
Okay so I don't know for sure if this is a thing or not, but during my active regen today, EGT1 stayed under a 1k degrees F. It usually gets up past 1000 deg when I'm in an active regen. It doesn't hit 1100 but has come close before. So I don't know if this is because she's getting more air through the S&B, but I am going to keep track of this and will report back.
A riv nut would work super in that tube.
Check this out. I have a assortment of different sizes. Yhey have 2 different ones. Blind which go in where the hole doesn't go through the metal and the ones in the picture that have a shoulder to stop it from falling through the metal. They are super easy and I have had great luck with them. No bonding no mixing just drill out the hole and insert the rivnut. I have a special tool that I use. https://www.rivetnutusa.com/rivnut-rivet-nut/
Here is the kind of tool I have https://www.amazon.com/NEXTACK-Assor...6719887&sr=8-7
While I think that's a great solution and tool to have, that's more than what I want to pay to fix those threads. I want to be cheap here as this will just likely sit in a box as I'm getting a whole new tube. But I do want to fix that hole so I can utilize that air tube if I needed to.
