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While I share the sentiment, and since I'm down the rabbit hole, I'm hoping it doesn't have to come to that.
I think we're all praying it doesn't come to that. But the demonic forces at work are not going to stop. Fortunately we have nothing to fear from them and the eternal glory that awaits will far exceed any temporary suffering they inflict on us.
So a few years ago, not exact on how long it was for sure, I decided it would be a good idea to swap out my amber cab light lenses for a smoked set... during winter here... when it's cold... and the plastic is brittle. So when I screwed the cheap factory screws back in, the bases cracked. Yeah, I was a dumb @$$. And yeah I had water dripping in my cab driving me nuts... I realized what an idiot I was...
So long story short, water and probably salt, got underneath the cab light bases. It wasn't horrible but it was there. So I prepped the area under each light, as rust was under 4 out of 5 lights. I used Chassis Saver from Magnet Paints. They say to leave some rust there as I did. I used 150 grit sandpaper for roughen up the good paint. here's a few pics.
Not pretty I know but it won't rust again. I did 4 coats of the silver #934 and 2 coats of the black. I do have plans to coat the roof with Monsta Liner from the windshield seal to just after the cab light openings to where the paint ends as an anti-chip coating and to protect the paint on the cab light holes
Being that I AM OVERKILL, I did inside the truck as well. That paint is some tenacious stuff.
Before I plugged in the connector, I put NO-OX-ID A-Special- Electrical Contact Grease on the connecter. Like I said, Overkill...
I found the tip here to thread the hole with a 8-32 tapered tap and use 8-32 x 3/8" stainless steel button head screws. They work great.
If anyone has any questions, please let me know and I'll be glad to help you out. Once done, this works really nice and the screws go in like it was designed that way. FYI, I measured the stock screws and they are 3/8" long.
Overkill - That No-OX special is the bomb. We were required to use it on every DC connection when we wired cell towers. I use it on any DC application, cars, trucks, tractors. Not a single one has shown battery terminal corrosion.
Overkill - That No-OX special is the bomb. We were required to use it on every DC connection when we wired cell towers. I use it on any DC application, cars, trucks, tractors. Not a single one has shown battery terminal corrosion.
I believe I ran into it here. I bought that small jar on Amazon. I used it on my new snow plow motor connections last year where it was impractical to use NOCO NCP2 brush on corrosion inhibitor.
I like the NOCO stuff for the bigger stuff like battery connectors. It does not dry out like Fluid Film doesn't either. I never had corrosion with the NOCO either. But I also get my truck oiled every year at Carwell Products and they sprayed under the hood. I think the special red oil they spray with helped with keeping corrosion at bay. I first bought the NOCO stuff in 2019. My battery hold down bars have no corrosion on them.
so far, this is the only long running thread that still talks about 6.7 stuff
Thanks man...
I'm now working along the rockers and underneath. All in all, the rust was not horrible. Lots of stone chips on the rockers. The truck was treated with the Zeibart stuff which I don't recommend as rust will form under it but the Carwell oil treatment kept it at bay... I should have known better. The paint is notoriously thin down low on the rockers so I'm not surprised at what happened. I will not let Buffalo winters rot my truck. I've been taking pics and will post up soon. I just wonder how much cleaner the truck would be along the rockers under the truck without the goop on it. I pulled off the truck steps and brackets.
Without the Carwell oil, I believe the truck would have been way worse with five winters under it's belt. More later...
Overkill - towed the camper to Cabelas in Tridelphia, WV. Ambient was 85. Ford Forced regen at 457 miles. EGT4 max was 1100. Seems the Banks Ram Air and 5” monster exhaust let Betty White breathe a bit better. No interest in weight loss. 13-15mpg towing I’m happy with that
You need anti-seize on those SS screws. But you knew that already because you are Overkill.
I like the way you think Bone... but the bases of the cab lights are plastic.
Originally Posted by Squirrel13
Overkill - towed the camper to Cabelas in Tridelphia, WV. Ambient was 85. Ford Forced regen at 457 miles. EGT4 max was 1100. Seems the Banks Ram Air and 5” monster exhaust let Betty White breathe a bit better. No interest in weight loss. 13-15mpg towing I’m happy with that
Wow 13 to 15 mpg towing is excellent. Good for you, Squirrel.
So these are shots of the driver's side rocker. I regret not getting mudflaps sooner. I will run them for this winter though (have to buy a set). I pulled off the fender flares and removed the side steps. The front fender had zero rust and solid paint, but the rear wheel well had two spots with the bubbles; pics to come. The front step brackets from both sides were rusted pretty well with most paint gone. Will treat those with Chassis Saver as well. I'm thinking about getting the steps powder coated semi-gloss black. A local shop did my son's Fusion factory wheels and they came out great. The guy said semi-gloss is most durable so that's what we went with. I'm going to have my wheels done at one point; probably after the Cooper Snow Claws are totally racing slicks as I have a set of Ford 18 inch steelies with brand new snows on them.
I can't remember if I was finished sanding them or not. All solid with just surface rust and not heavy.
Last edited by Overkill2; Aug 19, 2022 at 08:42 PM.
Reason: add to post
So after I knocked down the bubbles to expose the metal underneath, I sanded with 150 grit sandpaper to get it ready for the paint. They call for a range from 120 to 180 grit sandpaper for previously painted surfaces. On the back side underneath the truck, they was minor rust and I had to scrap off the Ziebart tar schitt. I used xylene to clean after sanding and to clean the brush. I used 3 coats of silver #934, as a primer, and then 2 coats of the antique-satin black #970.
I also removed the sill plates from the doors as well. There was minor rust on the lips of the body where the cab seal sits on top of. So I took care of that as well. Here's pics of the holes for the rubber pieces that hold the sill plates to the floor... sanded and prepped for paint.
I also scrapped off the tar from the holes on the bottom but it seemed as if they were rust free. But I wanted paint on top of those holes on the bottom of the truck also.
So I used a plastic paint can when I did the rockers. After it dried, this came right out of the can in one piece.
Truly tenacious paint. And if you get it on your skin and don't scrub it off right away with xylene, be prepared for it to take some time for it to wear off. Ask me how I know...
The front fender was clean but to protect the paint I decided on sanding underneath on the lip and a small portion on the fender line. This is a pic of it sanded pre-clean.
Looking at the rear of the truck. On the outside, I already coated the rust I found under the wheel well flare.
Rear wheel well looking towards the front of the truck. You can see more bubbled paint I found under the flare pre paint.
In the rear wheel well itself...
Another shot of rear wheel well looking towards the rear. More rust and damaged paint under the painted area.
The rear of the truck... that's where Ford puts that protective piece of clear "tape," for lack of a better word, on the rear of the bed.
Another shot looking into the wheel well.
This is all painted now... Will take pics soon and post up. Then on to the passenger side.
